Technical Clutch pedal travel & biting point

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Technical Clutch pedal travel & biting point

Alfadeke21

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Hi, I've just acquired a 2007 Panda Dynamic with only 9k miles(!).
I know the clutch has a long pedal travel but the biting point on my car is far up & close to full release of the pedal.
It doesn't slip when accelerating hard in any gear or going up hills in top.
So my query is whether this is normal or am I nearing a possible clutch change?

Another point is while I intend to change the cambelt, given its age, it has been suggested not to bother replacing the water pump in view of the low miles...

What is the received wisdom on such a course of action?
 
Another point is while I intend to change the cambelt, given its age, it has been suggested not to bother replacing the water pump in view of the low miles...

What is the received wisdom on such a course of action?

On such a low mileage car, I'll bet the coolant has never been changed and the water pump could have suffered some internal corrosion, irrespective of the low miles.

The parts are so cheap (the water pump is less than £20) that you might as well do the lot while you're in there.

Before you start, check the car comes up to operating temperature within a couple of miles and holds steady halfway up the gauge. If it doesn't, also change the thermostat (about £8 from ECP); they're known to lose performance with age, and you'll be draining the coolant anyway if changing the water pump.

As far as the coolant itself is concerned, I'd suggest you syphon it out and save yourself a shedload of hassle with hoses and clips.

The clutch itself is probably fine, but the operating hydraulics may not be; another known weakness. There's very little fluid in the system and it deteriorates rapidly, so it should be changed every two years, along with the brake fluid. Again, I'll bet yours is original. Slave cylinders are cheap, master cylinders less so, but there's a so-called quick release connector in the pipe which, after a few years, almost never releases at all, quickly or otherwise; if you buy both, you'll also get all the pipework, which makes the job much easier.

Check the rear beam for corrosion, especially around the spring pans; also check the sump, and give it a wipe with an oily rag.

All of the above notwithstanding, the Panda is a basic, affordable, reliable and easy to work on car for the home mechanic. Parts are generally both cheap and readily available and of course you also have the support of an excellent forum if you get stuck ;). You've made a good choice.
 
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The clutch pedal going to the floor before releasing suggests the hydraulics do need bleeding. But its likely the problem will return as the master cylinder seals harden with age. A new cylinder with pipe costs about £80. Seal repair kits are not available.

The slave cylinder with pipe is probably ok but a new one is only £30. You might was replace the whole lot. Its supplied fluid filled so there's no bleeding to do and it will last another 10+ years.
 
Thanks gents for your replies; most helpful.
1. I will replace water pump now. As your say it's cheap & simple to fo when the timing belt is being done & everything is stripped down.
Re siphoning the water out as opposed to a full drain, is it likely/possible there is some sludge in the bottom of the rad/block/lower hoses remaining?

2. I may not have explained myself properly re the clutch pedal travel. The clutch will disengage within a few inches of depressing the pedal; similarly when engaging the clutch the pedal needs only to be pressed an inch or two - and the full pedal travel after the first inch or two is not necessary, even to avoid gear crunching.
I will admit that the clutch pedal has stayed fully depressed once - when I was coming out of the garage!

However I will also replace the whole clutch hydraulics.
Now, please forgive me if I'm being a bit simple: Looking at the e-Per diagrammatics it seems there is a solid metal(?) pipe between the two flex pipes. When I disconnect the slave & master cylinder pipes how do I bleed any air out & new fluid into this section?

Finally thanks to you both for your assistance. As you mentioned I've already found this site to be a very useful info source!
Derek.
 
OK HANG ON.

Clutch biting at the bottom is indicative of hydraulics needing bleeding. Clutch biting at the top may well be OK.

Pedal sticking down is usually hydraulics but worn pressure plate can also do it. Clutch action lagging the pedal suggests wear on the pressure plate. But don't worry until it becomes and issue as it all gets sorted with a new clutch.

Pedal getting stiff/heavy and difficulty selecting gears indicates worn out clutch.
 
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... unless the previous owner was a little old lady (or anyone, for that matter!) who always rode the clutch - in which case, don't discount clutch wear as a factor.
Maybe only 9k miles, but clutches can be toast in a lot less.
 
I had complete set changed 5 days ago, now pedal is hitting, what presume to be, slave cylinder piston which is connected to the pedal itself... And, the pedal is lagging a few last centimeters when foot is lifted, it hits me at the sole, a strange tap...
It's a Bravo 2.0 multijet.
Can it be all to air in the system? Or just poorly done job?
 
I had complete set changed 5 days ago, now pedal is hitting, what presume to be, slave cylinder piston which is connected to the pedal itself... And, the pedal is lagging a few last centimeters when foot is lifted, it hits me at the sole, a strange tap...
It's a Bravo 2.0 multijet.
Can it be all to air in the system? Or just poorly done job?
Done at a garage 5 days ago? Probably best to go back and have them fix it?

Can it be air, yes, but unlikely it should compress and still keep the pedal tight, the clutch pedal will also have a lower bitting activation point

Bravo 2L JTD

This is a panda 169 section

You need to post in the bravo section incase there is a problem specific to the Bravo

On the Panda we have a common problem with the slave cylinder sticking, to test for this peel the rubber boot from the end and put some silicone grease inside smearing it around the cylinder, if it improves it needs changing

As per here

 
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Sorry for the wrong section, I simply searched for clutch issues on forum wide search box.
Thank you very much!
Yes. I will go back to them, again, I went already once, but I've made an appointment for day after tomorrow. We'll see!
 
2. I may not have explained myself properly re the clutch pedal travel. The clutch will disengage within a few inches of depressing the pedal; similarly when engaging the clutch the pedal needs only to be pressed an inch or two - and the full pedal travel after the first inch or two is not necessary, even to avoid gear crunching.
I will admit that the clutch pedal has stayed fully depressed once - when I was coming out of the garage!
Normal.
Bleed the clutch as it makes a big difference to operation in my opinion.

It sounds like a great find but will give you some issues for a while. Low milers always seem to. I wouldnt expect anything major though.
 
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