If you decide to have a stab at it yourself, I would prob be able to come an give a hand. I'm not that far from you
Cheers
Cheers
Technical Clutch help in Essex please?
- Thread starter SchumacherSeicento
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Technical
Clutch help in Essex please?
SchumacherSeicento
New member
SchumacherSeicento
New member
First of all, sorry to revive my old thread but I thought better for continuity sake.
As an update to this story, it turns out that the cable replacement lasted from early December 2009 until now (OK not a bad run). It has snapped again right from the point that the cable joins onto the eyelet that bolts through the quadrant (this is one of the 'modified' or heavy duty cables). Having just had a look under the dash, it appears that the quadrant pivot unit still has the pedal rod attached, aswell as the eyelet of the snapped cable but the quadrant is no longer attached to it's point on the bulkhead and so is hanging in the air.
It looks like an upside down 'U' shape that sort of clips over the pivot point? Am I right in that respect? Does anyone know if this would push back on and work with a new cable or is it likely to have worn out?
My main concern before I purchase a new cable is the release arm where the adjuster nut is seems very stiff. It has free play towards the front of the car back to neutral position but I can't move it by hand or with a lever/mulgrips etc. My question is, should I be able to move it at all, or would I not be able to apply enough force? I am wondering if the release bearing has seized and so replacing with a new cable isn't going to help me!
Any help is much appreciated as always.
Kind regards, Jon
As an update to this story, it turns out that the cable replacement lasted from early December 2009 until now (OK not a bad run). It has snapped again right from the point that the cable joins onto the eyelet that bolts through the quadrant (this is one of the 'modified' or heavy duty cables). Having just had a look under the dash, it appears that the quadrant pivot unit still has the pedal rod attached, aswell as the eyelet of the snapped cable but the quadrant is no longer attached to it's point on the bulkhead and so is hanging in the air.
It looks like an upside down 'U' shape that sort of clips over the pivot point? Am I right in that respect? Does anyone know if this would push back on and work with a new cable or is it likely to have worn out?
My main concern before I purchase a new cable is the release arm where the adjuster nut is seems very stiff. It has free play towards the front of the car back to neutral position but I can't move it by hand or with a lever/mulgrips etc. My question is, should I be able to move it at all, or would I not be able to apply enough force? I am wondering if the release bearing has seized and so replacing with a new cable isn't going to help me!
Any help is much appreciated as always.
Kind regards, Jon
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The release arm when moved anti clockwise without the cabe attached should return to the down position on its own when in good working order.
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SchumacherSeicento
New member
Clutch Release Problem?
Thanks for your reply. So standing at the front of the car, when the mechanism is working, should it be possible to push the arm towards the bulkhead by hand or with the use of grips like I mentioned or would it need much more force? I can't manage to move it with grips and levering it from underneath the car.
Thanks again, Jon
Thanks for your reply. So standing at the front of the car, when the mechanism is working, should it be possible to push the arm towards the bulkhead by hand or with the use of grips like I mentioned or would it need much more force? I can't manage to move it with grips and levering it from underneath the car.
Thanks again, Jon
Re: Clutch Release Problem?
Yeah it should move with ease. I think that is your problem, they are not expensive but you need to take the gearbox out.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLUTCH-ARM-FO...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b1e00552
Ming
Yeah it should move with ease. I think that is your problem, they are not expensive but you need to take the gearbox out.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLUTCH-ARM-FO...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b1e00552
Ming
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SchumacherSeicento
New member
Re: Clutch Release Problem?
I replaced the cable yesterday and bought a new clutch and have taken it to a local mechanic to fit the clutch for me. I'm unsure now you've said that whether it needs the clutch?
Can you explain any further?
Thanks, Jon
Ah I see, I thought that the arm had seized because the release bearing had had it and that the pedal was stiff and the cables going because the clutch was on it's way out? Do you think that is not the case?
I replaced the cable yesterday and bought a new clutch and have taken it to a local mechanic to fit the clutch for me. I'm unsure now you've said that whether it needs the clutch?
Can you explain any further?
Thanks, Jon
This post contains eBay links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Re: Clutch Release Problem?
was the clutch working ok but just heavy??? If yes then I'd say it prob doesnt. But if the box has gotta comeout to fit new arm/investigate seizure then it may pay to fit anyway while you're in there so to speak...
was the clutch working ok but just heavy??? If yes then I'd say it prob doesnt. But if the box has gotta comeout to fit new arm/investigate seizure then it may pay to fit anyway while you're in there so to speak...
Re: Clutch Release Problem?
If the clutch is heavy, Then the release arm and bearing are the problem but no doubt the pressure plate fingers are worn on the clutch..
If the clutch is heavy, Then the release arm and bearing are the problem but no doubt the pressure plate fingers are worn on the clutch..
SchumacherSeicento
New member
Thanks, yes it was just heavy/creaky. I suppose the mechanic will, while replacing the clutch see that the arm is seized and need replacing and do it or let me know. I guess if it is seized (as above, I couldn't move it by hand or with grips) there's no way around it? I paid £45 for a clutch, £12 for a cable and it's about £100 fitting, so with a possible arm needed as well I hope this will get it back on the road.
Jon
Jon
I would TELL the mechanic of the offending arm, to make doubly sure. Assumption is the mother of all f*&k ups, pardon my french.
SchumacherSeicento
New member
Yes will certainly contact him tomorrow to check against the information given here but he does know the situation with me replacing the cable and I had mentioned about not being able to move that arm when I dropped it off. I thought still that it was the release bearing that had failed and was stopping that arm moving and not that it would need a new arm...Not knowing all parts of the system myself I was only going by information given here and from the many past posts by various members on failed cables and the subsequent replies of 'you will need a new clutch'. So I'm unsure really what's going on now until tomorrow as he didn't say anything about this extra part!
Jon
even with the release bearing failing you should still be able to move the arm.
Well unless the bearing somehow got trapped in the pressure plate?
Ming
Well unless the bearing somehow got trapped in the pressure plate?
Ming
Change all and your left leg will be more responsive when trying to exit the vehicle after a drive.
SchumacherSeicento
New member
Thanks guys! I'll find out what the situation is with it once he has the old one out. Sounds like there could be variables but likely that this extra part is going to be needed then.
Jon
Jon
Hi
Interesting reading about your problem.
Last time I ended up changing my clutch, before doing so I tried to move the clutch release arm as you describe and could'nt. I rekon its just hard to get enough force on it from the angle you reach down through the engine bay.
I tried one of those eyelet cables and it snapped - although i think it would have lasted longer in my case if i hadnt tightened up the bolt through the eyelet. As i think this caused metal fatigue in the cable. They should really use a different fixing.
That clutch has lasted about 25 - 30k miles and i have just bought another one about three years later. Its now noticably heavy and creaky.
Interesting reading about your problem.
Last time I ended up changing my clutch, before doing so I tried to move the clutch release arm as you describe and could'nt. I rekon its just hard to get enough force on it from the angle you reach down through the engine bay.
I tried one of those eyelet cables and it snapped - although i think it would have lasted longer in my case if i hadnt tightened up the bolt through the eyelet. As i think this caused metal fatigue in the cable. They should really use a different fixing.
That clutch has lasted about 25 - 30k miles and i have just bought another one about three years later. Its now noticably heavy and creaky.
SchumacherSeicento
New member
Hi thanks for your reply, thought I'd add a little more to the situation also.
I replaced the cable for a cheap pattern part with the hook end, same as the Fiat one. Thought that would save paying out for one job. I bought a cheap clutch also or £45. I took the car to a local mechanic, who started the removal/installation a day later when I received a call stating the bearing in the kit was wrong. After much hassle I managed to exchange the bearing for the correct one (The one that was wrong was about 1.5 times larger than the original!). I asked about the arm and he showed me it and the clutch fork operating just fine. The bushings were also fine. So it seems we certainly were in the same boat and this bears out that there wasn't anything actually wrong with that part.
The mechanic said to me that you should be able to move the arm to some degree though, which I couldn't to be fair!
I also understand about your problem doing the nut up with the eyelet fitting and had the same concern when I fitted that cable. When I looked at the movement of that quadrant though, the angle it swept through didn't seem to cause concern but maybe that was something to think about.
I have left it with him and am waiting for the clutch to be fitted now, so will provide another update once I know what actually went on.
Sorry I'm not sure if I'm reading your post right but are you saying that your last clutch had done 25k-30k and it started to exhibit the same symptoms as mine but that you have now had a new one fitted?
Thanks again, Jon
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yes thats correct.
Im about to change the clutch again after about 25K miles i think. My cinq has done 121,000 Miles
Im starting to worry the cable could snap any second as the pedal gets more and more heavy.
Last time i just kept swapping the cable and eventually the release bearing went - well dissintegrated, and the fork went into the spring plates. I then had to replace the fork.
Last time I changed my cable I put a washer on before the split pin - as the split pin failed on me. I rekon this is a good idea, as well as carrying a spare cable and a 10mm spanner in the boot
Im about to change the clutch again after about 25K miles i think. My cinq has done 121,000 Miles
Im starting to worry the cable could snap any second as the pedal gets more and more heavy.
Last time i just kept swapping the cable and eventually the release bearing went - well dissintegrated, and the fork went into the spring plates. I then had to replace the fork.
Last time I changed my cable I put a washer on before the split pin - as the split pin failed on me. I rekon this is a good idea, as well as carrying a spare cable and a 10mm spanner in the boot
SchumacherSeicento
New member
I see! I'll certainly keep your advice in mind, thanks.yes thats correct.
Im about to change the clutch again after about 25K miles i think. My cinq has done 121,000 Miles
Im starting to worry the cable could snap any second as the pedal gets more and more heavy.
Last time i just kept swapping the cable and eventually the release bearing went - well dissintegrated, and the fork went into the spring plates. I then had to replace the fork.
Last time I changed my cable I put a washer on before the split pin - as the split pin failed on me. I rekon this is a good idea, as well as carrying a spare cable and a 10mm spanner in the boot
I'm guessing that it may just be that the cable did give up, as the bearing seemed OK. What actually is it then that makes the clutch stiff?
Jon
