Technical clutch change tools-cinqe 1.1

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Technical clutch change tools-cinqe 1.1

RichardBradford

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May 10, 2008
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Hi,

about to embark on a clutch change on my wife's 1.1 sporting cinquecento. Can anyone please let me know what tools I will need for the job? Currently have the odd spanner and screwdriver but little more - hydraulic jack and axle stand aside.

Anyone run into any real difficulties doing one of these?

Thanks,

Richard
 
You'll need a decent (ish) socket set, a breaker bar, a 32mm socket (impact ones you can get from a factor for £6 or so), a punch/cold chisel and a friend with a good back.

It's an awkard job, rather than a difficult one. You'll probably find back street clutch jockeys (rather than garages) near you will do it for £100 plus parts.
 
32mm socket is not really neccessary.

Shafts will come out without undoing the hub nuts.

So

10mm spanner, socket (disconnect battery, flywheel cover, coil pack, clutch cover, cluitch cable)

13mm spanner, socket and long extension (starter motor*, engine mounts, bumper bolts**, charcoal cannister bolt, detent cable, earth strap)

17mm spanner (speedo cable)

18mm spanner (strut pinch bolts)

19mm spanner and socket (wheel bolts, bellhousing nut and bolts)

22mm spanner (reverse light switch)

Needle nose pliers, pipe grips, assorted scredrivers and a hammer or two.

Clutch alignment tool

Trolley jack and three axle stands, or two jacks and two axle stands.

Two plastic bags, two additional small rubber gloves(disposable)

Tie wraps, Small plank of woodor, in my language 'dod 'a wid'

An old tyre or pile of carpet

Method:-

Loosen wheel nuts, Jack up car and support chassis rails on axle stands.

Shoogle car firmly to ensure it wont fall off stands.

Remove wheels

Disconnect battery earth.

Remove top strut pinch bolts, loosen bottom bolts a couple of turns.

Remove nearside arch liner

**Optional, remove bumper. This make access so much easier.

Undo coil pack and leave on top of air filter

*Remove starter motor bolts, DO NOT REMOVE STARTER

Remove reverse detent cable, tuck out of way

Remove reverse switch cable, leave switch in place for now.

Undo earth strap from selector tower

Remove clutch cable from arm, tuck out of way

Pop top gear cable from selector (needle nose pliers)

Try pop back gear cable, if not easy wait until box has partially dropped.

Remove outer cable clip for top cable (pipe grips, screwdriver, hammer)

Try outer cable clip for back one (Can be done later)

Remove flywheel cover

Under the car, remove clips on driveshaft cups, pop driveshafts out of cups. Place plastic bags over driveshafts ends, put rubber gloves over cups. Tiewrap driveshafts to steering arms.

Remove speedo cable

Unplug charcoal cannister wiring and remove bolt holding charcoal cannister.

Remove three bellhousing bolts and one bellhousing nut (nut down the back under starter).

Support engine on trolley jack on 'dod 'a wid'

Undo four nearside engine/gearbox mount bolts, two front, two rear)

Lower engine about four inches on jack, do not drop too far.

Slide box off engine onto old tyre.

Change clutch, make sure release bearing is right place, tie wrap arm to belhousing, holding it in the 'out position'. This ensures that the arm doesn't move during refitting, upsetting the positioning of the release bearing.

Support engine on third axle stand if you don't have two jacks

Jack box back into place.

Refit all parts removed.

Before refitting detent cable, remove reverse light switch, fit detent, refit switch, refit cable.

Have a beer.

Hope I've remembered it all

Cheers

SPD
 
Wow! Thanks guys.

Going to get me a clutch kit and get cracking! :)

By the way, the clutch has become a little stiff - is this just because we keep tightening the cable to make up for cable stretch or clutch collapse which would be cured with a new clutch or is there something else we should be looking our for?

Many thanks,

Richard
 
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