Technical Clutch Bleeding 263 Multijet

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Technical Clutch Bleeding 263 Multijet

Vito61

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Hi

I have a 2.0 diesel multijet with a hydraulic clutch.

How do you go about bleeding the air from it? The pedal seems to have a long travel.

Many thanks.
 
If it's the same as the 1.9 multijet the slave cylinder is bolted to the gearbox under the battery. There is a bleed nipple on it but it is fixed, you pop up the clip that retains the Hose, this allows the hose to move out enough to let the fluid out of the nipple. You push the hose back in and push the clip back down when your done.
 
If it's the same as the 1.9 multijet the slave cylinder is bolted to the gearbox under the battery. There is a bleed nipple on it but it is fixed, you pop up the clip that retains the Hose, this allows the hose to move out enough to let the fluid out of the nipple. You push the hose back in and push the clip back down when your done.
Hi. I have been having a lot of trouble getting a pedal on mine. It's a 1.3 with the plastic slave cylinder, I started by the usual method of the pedal being pushed too the floor then pushing the hose back in and the pedal raised. Got about half a pedal. I then tried gravity, with a hose hanging down to the ground to get a better flow. This got me to about ¾ of a pedal. This morning I tried a vacuum pump and that made a slight improvement, then I wasn't quick enough to topup the reservoir and sucked more air in. I locked the van and walked away. Will try again tomorrow. Any tips will be great fully received.
 
Using a pump type oil can is a good way to bleed these. Fill the can with brake fluid and use a piece of tube between the oil can and the bleed nipple. Backbleed the system by pumping the oil can and it will push any air up out of the reservoir, you'll see the bubbles. The air wants to go up rather than down, it works well for just a few pounds for an oil can. Good luck
 

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If all else fails on a system when trying to bleed air out, my preference is usually a pressure cap fed supply to the reservoir if you can find a suitable adaptor kit. They often are run from a spare wheel at around 20psi. Obviously don't let it run out of clean fluid, but you control that by how much you let out the bleed nipple.
In the old days the car factories had a massive tank of brake fluid up high in the factory which fed via a tap and an adaptor to the master cylinder, so the workers could just open the bleeders until clean fluid came out. One advantage for older vehicles with possibly lazy or weak master cylinder seals is it doesn't encourage air to come back in via the back seal on the return stoke of the master cylinder, something fast pumping of the pedal can can aggravate.
Normally I can usually just open a bleeder wide or take it right out and let gravity do the job, just watch the fluid level.;)
 
Using a pump type oil can is a good way to bleed these. Fill the can with brake fluid and use a piece of tube between the oil can and the bleed nipple. Backbleed the system by pumping the oil can and it will push any air up out of the reservoir, you'll see the bubbles. The air wants to go up rather than down, it works well for just a few pounds for an oil can. Good luck
Hi and thanks. I have another pump that will work both ways. If I can find it.
 
I have the van back on the road but it still catches when I select reverse. I got a guy I know to have a look but he was a bit baffled, he normally works on boats. Is there a replacement slave with a proper nipple, I am also thinking of fitting a new master cylinder.
I've never had this much trouble before with a clutch.
 
I have the van back on the road but it still catches when I select reverse. I got a guy I know to have a look but he was a bit baffled, he normally works on boats. Is there a replacement slave with a proper nipple, I am also thinking of fitting a new master cylinder.
I've never had this much trouble before with a clutch.
As I mentioned previously if master cylinder a bit lazy/weak then a vacuum bleeding system will aggravate the problem. Dur to "sucking" air past the master cylinder back seal.
If possible to pressure bleed with a suitable cap on master cylinder (brake master cylinder feeds clutch master cylinder?) then with care and just a low pressure it will probably be the best way.
I am guessing that if you go to a slave with proper bleeder, it will involve changing all the pipes and cylinders.
 
Think that's all you'll find for slave cylinders due to the way the hose fits and dimensions. I've fitted master and slave's as a pair, Valeo masters about £45 and Borg and Beck slave's about £15 off Ebay. They're easy to fit, just have to bleed it all again. Good luck 👍
 
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