Technical Checking Cambelt

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Technical Checking Cambelt

minifiat

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If I was to check the cambelt on a 1.2 8v, do I need to remove the engine mount in order to remove the timing cover?

New to me Punto that has no service history. So I just want to check the cambelt isn't on its last legs
 

chris3234

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Just to check into you should be able to just remove the timing cover

To replace it and get ful access to all the parts you'd need to remove it
 
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minifiat

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Just to check into you should be able to just remove the timing cover

To replace it and get ful access to all the parts you'd need to remove it

Thanks :)

The only guides I could find were to replace it, which obviously needs the mount removing.

Being the 8v I just want to check it, and if it looks reasonable I'll take my chances with leaving it
 

El Capitano

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I recently changed the cam belt on a 1.2 8v and found that the engine mount had to be removed to get the covers off as they are trapped behind the mount.

You can pull back the top of the top cover enough to see the belt (and in my case that was enough to tell me that the belt needed changing) so you should be able to tell whether it needs changing or not.

It’s a cheap and easy belt to change if you have any doubts about its condition.
 
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My recollection was it was in TWO pieces

Upper and lower..

But pretty sure my Panda was 1 piece..
And the mount was awkward :)


Link:

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-guides/437184-panda-8-valve-cambelt-change.html?p=4160027
 
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minifiat

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I recently changed the cam belt on a 1.2 8v and found that the engine mount had to be removed to get the covers off as they are trapped behind the mount.

You can pull back the top of the top cover enough to see the belt (and in my case that was enough to tell me that the belt needed changing) so you should be able to tell whether it needs changing or not.

It’s a cheap and easy belt to change if you have any doubts about its condition.

I think changing the belt would be within my capabilities, but the part I worry about it bleeding the system after changing the water pump.

I had a Punto before that had a constant air lock after having the cambelt and pump changed at a garage. No matter how much I bled it I could never get rid of the air.
 

El Capitano

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I can understand you not wanting to bleed the cooling system as it’s something that I haven’t managed to get right yet.

It isn’t compulsory to change the water pump, the one in mine was fine when I checked (i.e. it pumps, it doesn’t leak and the bearing feels fine) so I didn’t change it.

If you have no service history it might be worth checking the condition of the coolant as it might need changing anyway - it doesn’t last forever.

The cam belt cover on mine is in two pieces.
 

Currymunster

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Just checked my one and I can confirm.
This need to remove the engine mount as the bottom cover is trapped behind it. The to one is to but can be leavered out.
Also the plastic splash guard covering the crank pulley need removing(3 screws)
The drivers wheel needs removing and also the drivers plastic inner wing so you can see the timing marks.
Be aware also that there are two different procedures for getting TDC on the compression stroke of number 1 piston. It depends on the engine number.....
 

SolidusSnake

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A quick tip for bleeding the coolant system(requires some diy) if you create a funnel so you can overfill your reservoir higher than the highest bleeding valve you should be able to bleed the system completely without issue.
 

quaffle

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I think changing the belt would be within my capabilities, but the part I worry about it bleeding the system after changing the water pump.

I had a Punto before that had a constant air lock after having the cambelt and pump changed at a garage. No matter how much I bled it I could never get rid of the air.

The Punto has an obsoletely stupid design where the rear bleed screw at the back is higher than the coolant expansion bottle (at the front of the car, on the radiator). This is why you will have an issue bleeding it.

I will give you the big secret.

Drive your car onto some ramps or find a method of raising the nose of the car fairly significantly. The coolant expansion bottle bottle will then be higher in space than the rear bleed screw. You will be able to bleed the system successfully then.
 
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I just fill the radiator..and filler tube to the brim.. and run it up to temp with the cap off

That works well enough on 8 valves :)

Yes..elevation has been recommended on here for years (y)
 
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Just checked my one and I can confirm.
This need to remove the engine mount as the bottom cover is trapped behind it. The to one is to but can be leavered out.

Are you sure it is trapped behind the engine mount? There is a clip interlocking plastic thing between the two pieces. With both top bolts removed the top cover pulls/levers out of the clip?
 
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