Cambelt Change on Marea TD100

[BlackSmoke]

Ok, so its not a Bravo/Brava but its pretty similar and I'd appreciate some advice. I have seen some good stuff on this site, including the dedicated cambelt section, although unfortunately that only covers 1.2 petrol.

I have just bought a 1998/R Fiat Marea Weekend TD100 ELX, I'm its third owner. It shows 59,500 miles on the clock and from reading elsewhere I get the impression that it would be a good idea for me to change the cambelt sooner rather than later, especially as it came with no service history and we are planning a continental holiday in it (to Italy).

Haynes don't do a manual for the car at all but I have managed to pick one up from Porter. At first glance it doesn't seem as comprehensive as the Haynes manuals, but that may just be because I am more used to the Haynes style.

Anyway, it does imply that I need a special Fiat tool 1860905000 to hold the crankshaft at TDC while I change the belt. Obviously I don't have such a tool but it looks like something that I could easily knock-up from a piece of scrap metal if I did but know the exact dimensions for it, specifically the distances between the various holes.

Does anybody know of a drawing of such a tool, with Dimensions shown, so that I can do this?

Alternatively does anybody know of any instructions for alternative ways to do the job on a TD100 engine.

Thanks in anticipation (and please be gentle with me as I am new to both Fiats and this forum...).

 

[BlackSmoke]

Related question: I have also heard that it is advisable to change the automatic cambelt tensioner at the same time as the cambelt. Is this true?

 

[Ozric-Al]

Welcome to the forum fella. Think you've been posting on FiatForum recently too?

Anyway, BOO is for Marea owners as well so welcome and make yourself at home.

Can't help with the above I'm afraid but I'm sure one of the tech guys will be able to help.

"What's the word on the street Huggy Bear? "

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[Anonymous]

Welcome to the forum


My advice would be to get it done in a garage - a lot of people say that Powerfiat is the best one.
And yes U should change all the tensioners, static and adjustable cos. the belt has a tendency to slip.
+ most people advice is to change the water pump, but if the bearing is OK u dont have to - I didnt on my JTD

sven

 

[BlackSmoke]

I can understand changing the automatic tensioner but why the idler gear too?

I'll be doing the work myself; partly because I enjoy it (and having just bought the car I want to get to know it a little) and partly because, for the next few weeks, I will probably have more time than disposable income...

 

[Anonymous]

Cos the fix tightener (3) bearing starts to grind / it gets used.
And all tightener bearings have a lifetime of 100 000 km (stated by manufacturers), after that they can break.

sven

 

[BlackSmoke]

In that case I'll get a new idler gear too, thanks Sven.

I assume that the water pump is better engineered than either tensioner or idler, perhaps due to a longer shaft with bearings at each end?, and has a quoted MTBF of greater that 100,000km?

 

[Anonymous]

Dont know how long it can last, but it has double row bearing like the wheel bearing.
Better to spend a few quid extra, than later to say the belt slipped - and that is what U can read here very often

sven

 

[BlackSmoke]

I notice from your earlier posting that you decided not to do this with your JTD though. Is this simply because that is much lower mileage (mine shows 59,900 miles)?

 

[Anonymous]

When I did it, let my mechanic do it, I had 91000 km on it, but my mechanic sad that it doesent need changing because the pump is OK.
And the tensioners didnt strain the pump, so the bearings have no "space".

sven

 

[Anonymous]

there is little point changing the adjuster at this low miles 59 000, it is recomended but theres no need really. when i did my td100 i marked the crank so i could put it back in the same position, u can screw the cover screws in the pump to hold it and there is a mark for the cam pully. Its a piece of **** really. Make sure and tention the belt correctly and not do it too tight or it will **** up some bearings.
If it is whinning at 1000 - 15000 then it is too tight. Turn the engine a few times once it is on and chek the tentioner again to make sure it has not moved allot.

 

[BlackSmoke]

OK, just waiting for Steve at Alternative Autos to come back to me with some parts and prices so I can order the bits and get on with the job.

You said to be careful not to set the belt tension too tight but I thought the tensioner is automatic, so how is that possible?

 

[Anonymous]

You will see, it makes it rediculisly tight if you put it right back tentioned. It doesent say not to but, some clot did that to my brothers the cam started leaking oil through and the water pump bearings got knakered, the belt skweaked like hell when the engine was cold. Ive done mine twice and never put it to full tention, well I did once, but I sorted that quick, it was whining owfally.