Technical Bump Stops

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Technical Bump Stops

Not many kits come with bump stops, but on my Ignis I had genuine Suzuki Sport 20mm lowered springs and it had very clear instructions on where to cut bump stops to reduce them, something that all the aftermarket ones gave no indication of.

I posted that info on the owners club site and everyone with cheaper (by cheaper I mean cheaper than SS as being a manufacturer part they were expensive compared to aftermarker including premium brands such as H&R) aftermarket ones did as Suzuki instructed and instantly said car was better as not hitting bump stops.

I know that on Emma's old car (Martins now) which ran Wietech matched dampers/springs and on the Sei which runs KW again matched dampers/springs , Jon measured the suspension when compressed on the car with no bump stops and then with bump stops fitted and then worked out how much/if any had to be cut off them to ensure the bump stops performed as they should and not interfere with the compression of the suspension.

It is interesting to note on some modern cars now the bump stops are built to perform as part of the suspension, the bump stops on the new 500 are massive, though not relevant to Cinqs, so why add it..............

Anyway, on my old Cinq (Fingers) I used new Monroe bump stops which I again measured and cut down to suit as my old bump stops were rotten. Bump stops normally include a dust shield which can help to lengthen the damper life.
 
Yes, that's the way to do it.

Some bump stops have been available for a long time (mainly on off road bikes) which are a sort of polyurethane foam and can be used to adjust how the suspension behaves towards full compression (I guess they'd act more like more damping until they went rigid). Maybe that's the way the ones on the 500 work. Some of the polybush people sell stuff which may be similar.

How's Jon finding it, BTW? Any progress on the Crusader?
 
Right , been under it again.

Rear:
Can just get a finger between each the rear stop and trailing arm, so not hard on as it looked like it was as I lowered it off the jack. One slightly bigger gap than the other, maybe due to knackered rear bushes, I ordered Powerflex today from Fluffy.

Front:
Can just get two fingers between stop and shock.

Tried to tighten the top nuts, didn't move, but the disc thing was beginning to turn. I presume if the bolts were backed off they would have tightened. Top mounts ordered also.

How big a gap do you all have between your stops and shocks / arms?

Mine is lowered, I'm told, 40mm. If the springs are a tad firmer then there'd be a tad less compression for the same force, so if standard gap = x, and springs are 15% harder, new gap = x - 15%.
 
Tried to tighten the top nuts, didn't move, but the disc thing was beginning to turn. I presume if the bolts were backed off they would have tightened. Top mounts ordered also.

I don't get you here. The washer thing is the bit you hold steady with a C spanner (etc) so that you can tighten (or undo) the top bolt. Don't do this fully without spring compressors on there!

Just about every case will be different (different spring shock combinations) -- sounds to me as though you have too little travel in each case.

Do it properly, by measuring the shocks at full travel. You've got to take the springs off both ends in any case.
 
They're still on the car with the wheels on the ground.

I don't have any kind of C spanner type thing to hand to hold that. But with the car pressing down, if the nuts had backed off, threads may have been showing under them, which they weren't (unless the rubber squeezes the washer upwards to cover any slack), and they'd have tightened.
 
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