Technical Brake judder after fit new disc?

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Technical Brake judder after fit new disc?

43576

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I have a Panda 1.2 eco, I had new front springs, new damper struts, new wheel bearings and flange hubs cos they were rusty badly. When I have to fit new disc and pads afterward. On the driver side start to judder straight way when apply on brake pedal!

I took both wheels off and lift the car off the ground and put in 1st gear let the engine spin the disc, I can see the disc is not straight! Is possibly faulty with new disc? Isn't alignment out of factory? All has been torque wrench correct setting on all bolts and nuts. What it could be?
 

koalar

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If do the same test with the original disc does it run true ?

If you do the same test with the disc removed does the hub run true ?

Hopefully it will just be a bit of dirt trapped between the flanges. Stopping it from seating correctly

Does it wobble side to side or up and down.
 
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43576

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Interest when I took the caliper off and disc off. My flange hub is wobbling. Is that because I didn't put the flange in correct? Or I did not tight deep enough? Bought on other day, bearing removal tools from Amazon. I am not sure what I have done wrong?
 
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Assuming the hub on the other side is correctly fitted then compare the threads on the big central hub retaining nut on both sides. If there are more threads exposed on one side than the other then the one with fewer threads exposed is not fully seated and I would expect that one to be the "wobbly" one. Although unusual, it might be that you've managed to bend the flange during the bearing renewal operation?
 
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43576

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I think may have bent it? I got to remove bearing and flange again. And get a new bearing and flange as well. The tools have round caps to fit both side of the hub to push the flange in when tight the nut, I can't be sure if that tool have cause bent the flange?
 
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I think may have bent it? I got to remove bearing and flange again. And get a new bearing and flange as well. The tools have round caps to fit both side of the hub to push the flange in when tight the nut, I can't be sure if that tool have cause bent the flange?
I would choose to do wheel bearings on a hydraulic bench press, something like this: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/shbp10m-10-ton-h-frame-bench-hydraulic-press Your description doesn't make me think of one? can you post a picture?
 
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43576

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This is what I purchased.
 

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koalar

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Well done in finding where the problem lies

I can’t get my head around what went wrong

Been awhile since doing a front hub bearing

So watched this

Still none the wiser as far as I see something has to be bent

 
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This is what I purchased.
Thanks for the picture. I wondered if it was something like that. My experience with these type of bearings is that they tend to take large amounts of force to both remove and then when refitting the new one. I've had examples which resisted smaller presses and needed our big 20 ton press to get them moving. Did you find it easy using your tool or were you having to use a long handled tool to turn the forcing screw? I suspect it'll be quite easy with your tool to end up with the bearing not properly seated? However you'd know that when looking at the fit between the bearing and upright/hub because you wouldn't be able to get the circlip into it's groove? The splined hub/flange might be more difficult to asses, which was why I thought to ask about the length of thread protruding.

As I don't know how much experience you have in doing this sort of stuff, can I also ask. You know to apply force only to the race which is "suffering" interference forces? so force applied to the outer race when pressing into the upright casting and inner races when forcing the splined flange back in. Koalar's video demonstrates this well. If you've damaged the bearing itself by pressing on the "wrong" race that just might be why the flange is now not running true?
 
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43576

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Today I have finished overhaul, found that I have bent the bearing! What I did first put new in first hit with rubber hammer gently the bearing go in about 1cm and tight with tool it go in smooth to full in. Now no wobble I have learned something. I would suggest myself get hydraulic press next it will be more accurate fit. Thanks Fab :cool:
 

koalar

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Well done.

Give yourself a pat on the back.

It can be disheartening when thing don’t go according to plan.

👍👍👍👍
 

koalar

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Yes indeed... Where do I find some info on Fiat classic 124 CAMBOX gasket replacement ? STILL LEARNING this posting STUFF ! Thx. Mr Ken

I would guess, looks like a pretty active section of the forum you still just need the right person to see it.

Sorry I can’t help
 

vexorg

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How do you get a bent bearing, as in how did it happen, and what does it look like. I'm struggling to see how you get a bent bearing based on their construction and how it could not run true.
 
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How do you get a bent bearing, as in how did it happen, and what does it look like. I'm struggling to see how you get a bent bearing based on their construction and how it could not run true.
My guess would be that the flange was not properly entered into the middle of the bearing. The inner consists of two races so if it was only pushed into the first race, so only partially seated, it would allow the flange to Wobble. Mind you, you wouldn't go far with it like that before the bearing collapsed and I doubt if you'd get the caliper carrier back on unless the flange was fully home? I have seen flanges bent, not quite the same thing but, remember the rear axle on the Marina where the flanges were a taper fit on the half shaft - great fun getting them off so you could fit a new bearing!
 

vexorg

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Yes, I've seen bent flange/hubs, even bent one due a kerb many many years ago. The bearing being bad threw me.
 

chris3234

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Today I have finished overhaul, found that I have bent the bearing! What I did first put new in first hit with rubber hammer gently the bearing go in about 1cm and tight with tool it go in smooth to full in. Now no wobble I have learned something. I would suggest myself get hydraulic press next it will be more accurate fit. Thanks Fab :cool:
Probably worth taking them both round to a local garage I'm sure many of them would happily press your old one out and out the new one in for some beer money as long as they arnt too busy
 

DaveMcT

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I have a bearing press tool as described in post 7. It struggled on one side but gear oil on the threads and bolt bearing surfaces got the old bearing off. The new bearings went in fine and the job (while hard work) was really no different to a using a hydraulic press.

I fitted the bearing into the hub carrier, then fitted the (new) hub into the bearing. I got everything from Shop 4 Parts.
 
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