Technical Brake bleed-changing abs(Sx4)

[Benwin21]

I have a seducing 2012 AT gasoline awd 107hp. My model is Hungarian and I can’t find ABs pump in my country for the Hungarian version. Is the Japan and Hungarian interchangeable? What years of abs should I look for? I’m searching for sx4 abs due to only few hundred of sedici in my country.

I need one due to soft brakes(pedal goes to floor slowly veichle stops. already changes the MC if someone had ideas would love to hear.
No warning light is on. Been in a garage and they are trying to find one also

 

[bugsymike]

I have a seducing 2012 AT gasoline awd 107hp. My model is Hungarian and I can’t find ABs pump in my country for the Hungarian version. Is the Japan and Hungarian interchangeable? What years of abs should I look for? I’m searching for sx4 abs due to only few hundred of sedici in my country.

I need one due to soft brakes(pedal goes to floor slowly veichle stops. already changes the MC if someone had ideas would love to hear.
No warning light is on. Been in a garage and they are trying to find one also

If no error codes then unlikely to be the ABS unit.
Is there any loss of brake fluid?
If so fix first.
If not remove lid of brake master cylinder reservoir, fill to brim and whilst some one is pressing the pedal as it goes soft, you may see the level drop a fraction and then as continued brake pedal pressure the level comes back again. If so then it can be the pressure seals in the brake master cylinder rather than the ABS unit.
Often if brake master cylinder starts to fail, if you slam the pedal on hard it works normally , but if you relax the pressure a little then you find the pedal gradually drops down.
It is unlikely to drop right to the floor as modern cars have dual circuit brakes which means two pistons and seals in the same master cylinder bore with separate outlet pipes, so if one fails you still have a brake, not as good and probably nearly at the floor but it still works a bit rather than the old days when you had total brake failure!!!

 

[Benwin21]

If no error codes then unlikely to be the ABS unit.
Is there any loss of brake fluid?
If so fix first.
If not remove lid of brake master cylinder reservoir, fill to brim and whilst some one is pressing the pedal as it goes soft, you may see the level drop a fraction and then as continued brake pedal pressure the level comes back again. If so then it can be the pressure seals in the brake master cylinder rather than the ABS unit.
Often if brake master cylinder starts to fail, if you slam the pedal on hard it works normally , but if you relax the pressure a little then you find the pedal gradually drops down.
It is unlikely to drop right to the floor as modern cars have dual circuit brakes which means two pistons and seals in the same master cylinder bore with separate outlet pipes, so if one fails you still have a brake, not as good and probably nearly at the floor but it still works a bit rather than the old days when you had total brake failure!!!

Thank you for the super quick response. I had this problem for a long time and recently(September) I changed the master cylinder for a new one(brumble). this did not fix the problem that is why they thought it might be ABS. Do you suggest that if what you said happens I should replace the MC again?

Thank you very much

 

[bugsymike]

Thank you for the super quick response. I had this problem for a long time and recently(September) I changed the master cylinder for a new one(brumble). this did not fix the problem that is why they thought it might be ABS. Do you suggest that if what you said happens I should replace the MC again?

Thank you very much

Do the check/test I mentioned, a good quality replacement master cylinder is usually OK. But there is a lot of poor quality parts around.
I assume there is no loss of brake fluid.

 

[Benwin21]

Thank you all for your answers. The mechanic did it everything. But I feel like there might be air bubbles. I did the mentioned test of pressing the brake and looking at the fluid, there is a slight decrease and increase and after a few pump the was a mechanical clunk sound when pressing the brake. Also tried skid test and the wheels didn't lock. When starting the car I pressed the brake and it stayed stuck for a few seconds on the floor. I am not sure it was bled properly. the might have just bled a main line. also saw in a video someone bleeding the brakes at the back wheels to fix the problem. Any suggestions what to do next(what to ask the mechanic to do) according to the new info? the mechanics(at a place that I do not trust replaced the master cylinder). they said that there were engine oil inside(I think they put it in by accident) when I took the car to my new mechanic they said that there were 2 different oils inside the brake reservoir.

 

[bugsymike]

Thank you all for your answers. The mechanic did it everything. But I feel like there might be air bubbles. I did the mentioned test of pressing the brake and looking at the fluid, there is a slight decrease and increase and after a few pump the was a mechanical clunk sound when pressing the brake. Also tried skid test and the wheels didn't lock. When starting the car I pressed the brake and it stayed stuck for a few seconds on the floor. I am not sure it was bled properly. the might have just bled a main line. also saw in a video someone bleeding the brakes at the back wheels to fix the problem. Any suggestions what to do next(what to ask the mechanic to do) according to the new info? the mechanics(at a place that I do not trust replaced the master cylinder). they said that there were engine oil inside(I think they put it in by accident) when I took the car to my new mechanic they said that there were 2 different oils inside the brake reservoir.

If non brake fluid has been used it can destroy all the brake hydraulic seals.!!!

 

[dv1nci]

Thank you all for your answers. The mechanic did it everything. But I feel like there might be air bubbles. I did the mentioned test of pressing the brake and looking at the fluid, there is a slight decrease and increase and after a few pump the was a mechanical clunk sound when pressing the brake. Also tried skid test and the wheels didn't lock. When starting the car I pressed the brake and it stayed stuck for a few seconds on the floor. I am not sure it was bled properly. the might have just bled a main line. also saw in a video someone bleeding the brakes at the back wheels to fix the problem. Any suggestions what to do next(what to ask the mechanic to do) according to the new info? the mechanics(at a place that I do not trust replaced the master cylinder). they said that there were engine oil inside(I think they put it in by accident) when I took the car to my new mechanic they said that there were 2 different oils inside the brake reservoir.

Hi, have the same trouble with my Sedici 2007 with 1.9 jtd 4x4. Bought one in September 2024 and still can't solve it.
The back brakes were fully replaced, the vacuum brake booster was replaced, the MC was replaced twice (once the used original one from another car, and once new DELPHI), parking brake regulation, gazillion times bleeding using different brake fluids. Nothing work. After the last MC replacement, the brakes became more spongy, so I almost ran into another car.
At my station, mechanics told me, that the last problem could be in the ABS cube (no error codes). Now I'm searching for one, but trying to find alternative thoughts about this issue.

So, I'll be very thankful if you share your current status of solving.

 

[benwin21b]

If non brake fluid has been used it can destroy all the brake hydraulic seals.!!!

Ive been to the mechanic again, he bled the R front>Lfront>MC.
while bleeding the Lfront he say that it brakes intermittently- sometimes it brakes and sometimes not. he didn't use any scan tool. just turned the wheels the front wheels opened the knob and sprayed out the fluid to remove air(2 man operation).

does his diagnosis still stands due to the L-front wheel brake situation?

Thank you buggy

 

[bugsymike]

Difficult with out being there, but in general I would refer to all my previous comments.
Apart from that I would maybe test with brake pipe clamps correctly fitted to all four brake hoses and see what the pedal feels like then.
If that fails to isolate a faulty area, with them still on I would try bleeding first at the brake master cylinder on all the output unions until sure no air in master cylinder , then work doing the same at the ABS unit, then undo the brake pipe hose clamp nearest to ABS unit and carefully bleed brakes there until sure clean air free fluid, next the same on the other front hose and gradually working to the back etc.
It is a process of elimination.
As mentioned there is ABS bleeding software program on some diagnostic tools like MES etc. so if all else fails try that.
Note also as was mentioned before "If non brake fluid has been used it can destroy all the brake hydraulic seals.!!!"