Technical Blower issues - 2005 Kontiki Ducato Motorhome 665

[Techmoto]

Good morning lovely people.

Thank you for all your help in other threads about this topic - some useful ideas - but I still have a problem.

The blowers have stopped working on our motorhome and I have exhausted my expertise. I have checked the fuses - but there was some debate as to what were the correct ones - so I have changed every single one for a new fuse just in case. I have pulled all the relays in two boxes under the bonnet and tested them to make sure they are functional. I have unplugged the motor and put a separate power supply direct to it and it works. I have checked the resistor pack and this seems fine (but I have a new one arriving in a few days to swap it out just in case. The switch could be the other culprit and I similarly have a new one winging its way from Ebay.

Under the bonnet high up (middle of bay) there is a second area with the blower relays. There is also a fuse bank with 3 fuses (2 x 20 and 1x 15). For the life of me I cant find anywhere in the manual or online any reference to what these fuses are for - but when explored the second 20 fuse was blown. I have replaced it, blowers still do not function and the fuse remains OK.

So I suppose my questions are: -

1. What fuses are actually the ones going to the blower? (there's lots of references to heaters, air con, cab air etc)?
2. What are the fuses next to blower relays for (I would assume these were for blowers too)?
3. Have I exhausted everything but those two replacement parts - is there anything else I can try?
4. Any tests I can do to see whats blown? Follow the circuit with a voltmeter?

Next step is taking it to a garage - but if they swap out a fuse and fix it, that would be embarrassing (I currently have the whole central dash and glove box off)

I'm not a mechanic - but fairly handy - any advice would be appreciated. I have read and tried most threads on this forum for this topic. Hoping for something enlightening

Thanks,

Graeme

 

[Techmoto]

So I have the circuit diagram and it looks as though the motor is constantly supplied with positive power. The negative side then goes through the resistor and switch depending on the setting with the fastest speed being a straight through open circuit. There is fuses and a relay. I'll do tests along the circuit to see how far things are getting - that should give me a better answer.......unless anyone else has any thoughts?

 

[the green vanper]

Hello,

In the downloads section of the forum you'll find an image of the eLearn CD with the factory workshop manual. It's quite complicated for use at first, but the installation is one time only and then the procedure is much easier.

Then, you can check directly the docs generated for the 2,8 diesel engine attached:

 

[the green vanper]

View attachment 473572
So I have the circuit diagram and it looks as though the motor is constantly supplied with positive power. The negative side then goes through the resistor and switch depending on the setting with the fastest speed being a straight through open circuit. There is fuses and a relay. I'll do tests along the circuit to see how far things are getting - that should give me a better answer.......unless anyone else has any thoughts?

Wasn't the 3.0 liter engine available in the x250 model?

 

[AsdaPricey]

I have checked the resistor pack and this seems fine

Hello - how did you test the resistor?

Any tests I can do to see whats blown? Follow the circuit with a voltmeter?

Yep - check for a good earth and that the full power voltage is received at the plug to the motor.

 

[Techmoto]

Just bought the full manual for a tenner - doh! Came back to find you helpful people have posted PDF's Thank you. I just need to track through the circuit and test it to see where the problem is. Thank you for all your replies and helpful posts - I will let you know how I get on

 

[Communicator]

Good morning lovely people.

Thank you for all your help in other threads about this topic - some useful ideas - but I still have a problem.

The blowers have stopped working on our motorhome and I have exhausted my expertise. I have checked the fuses - but there was some debate as to what were the correct ones - so I have changed every single one for a new fuse just in case. I have pulled all the relays in two boxes under the bonnet and tested them to make sure they are functional. I have unplugged the motor and put a separate power supply direct to it and it works. I have checked the resistor pack and this seems fine (but I have a new one arriving in a few days to swap it out just in case. The switch could be the other culprit and I similarly have a new one winging its way from Ebay.

Blower in the singular, as there is only one. With a basic heater power is supplied via relay T12, and fuse F55 (30A green), both of which are located in the LH cab fuesbox See attached diagram, which is slightly customised. See notes thereon. If your vehicle has aircon the situation is more complex, and there is a second supply from the engine bay fusebox F05 (30A).

Under the bonnet high up (middle of bay) there is a second area with the blower relays. There is also a fuse bank with 3 fuses (2 x 20 and 1x 15). For the life of me I cant find anywhere in the manual or online any reference to what these fuses are for - but when explored the second 20 fuse was blown. I have replaced it, blowers still do not function and the fuse remains OK.

As your vehicle is a Kontiki, it will have Sargent habitation electrics. This will include two relays and three fuses under the bonnet. The relays are split charge, and fridge relays. The 20A fuses are for the starter and habitation batteries, while the 15A is for the fridge. These components are part of the Swift conversion and may be found at the top LHS corner of the applicable Sargent diagram.

Wasn't the 3.0 liter engine available in the x250 model?

Yes but we are discussing an x244.

So I suppose my questions are: -

1. What fuses are actually the ones going to the blower? (there's lots of references to heaters, air con, cab air etc)?
2. What are the fuses next to blower relays for (I would assume these were for blowers too)?
3. Have I exhausted everything but those two replacement parts - is there anything else I can try?
4. Any tests I can do to see whats blown? Follow the circuit with a voltmeter?

Next step is taking it to a garage - but if they swap out a fuse and fix it, that would be embarrassing (I currently have the whole central dash and glove box off)

We should be able to avoid that.

I'm not a mechanic - but fairly handy - any advice would be appreciated. I have read and tried most threads on this forum for this topic. Hoping for something enlightening

Thanks,

Graeme

 

[Techmoto]

Thanks all - lots to go on - much more informed now

 

[Techmoto]

Ok thanks for all your help - I went out armed with all your pdf's and diagrams and nailed it first hit. Turned out to be the relay is shot. I swapped it out and it worked straight away. Thank you all so much for your help. It is hugely appreciated and I am extremely grateful.

You guys taking the time to help is brilliant - thank you.

 

[Techmoto]

OK replacement bought on Amazon - same day delivery £6.50 - Sorted.

 

[Communicator]

Ok thanks for all your help - I went out armed with all your pdf's and diagrams and nailed it first hit. Turned out to be the relay is shot. I swapped it out and it worked straight away. Thank you all so much for your help. It is hugely appreciated and I am extremely grateful.

You guys taking the time to help is brilliant - thank you.

Thanks for including the info about the relay. I am always sceptical when relays are suspected, but I have previously read of relay failure in that location, where it has to make, and break a higher current that others on the vehicle.

 

[Techmoto]

Interestingly I have checked this relay and it clicks quite nicely when current is applied - yet it did not work in situ - which is what confused me first time round. When you confirmed their location of the right relay I swapped another relay into its location and it worked fine. I'm about to breadboard the broken one and see what is going on - pins look clean - very odd. I'm thinking the electromagnet moves the switch - but the switch is broken in some way so no connection when charged....... (I will cut it open if I cant figure it out lol)

Thanks again for your help - I have been on lots of forums and websites and all of them quote different relays, fuses etc - yours was perfect. Maybe my 2.8L version is slightly different to others in this respect - but it was tricky to work out. I replaced all the 30A fuses as I thought they were likely to be the ones most used for something that drew so much current.

I was about to give up - then you came along Now I just need to work out why the cigarette lighter socket on the dash does not have enough power to keep the TomTom going!

Thanks.

 

[Communicator]

Interestingly I have checked this relay and it clicks quite nicely when current is applied - yet it did not work in situ - which is what confused me first time round. When you confirmed their location of the right relay I swapped another relay into its location and it worked fine. I'm about to breadboard the broken one and see what is going on - pins look clean - very odd. I'm thinking the electromagnet moves the switch - but the switch is broken in some way so no connection when charged....... (I will cut it open if I cant figure it out lol)

You may be able to prise the cover off with a small screwdriver, but do take care of fingers. I suspect that the contacts will have burnt away and lost their polished finish. I cannot remember when I bought my first ex RAF, WD (now MoD) surplus relay, but perhaps 1948. I hav played and worked with them ever since.

Thanks again for your help - I have been on lots of forums and websites and all of them quote different relays, fuses etc - yours was perfect. Maybe my 2.8L version is slightly different to others in this respect - but it was tricky to work out. I replaced all the 30A fuses as I thought they were likely to be the ones most used for something that drew so much current.

My PVC is an 2006 x244 2.8jtd, without EGR and ABS, so probably identical to your base vehicle

I was about to give up - then you came along Now I just need to work out why the cigarette lighter socket on the dash does not have enough power to keep the TomTom going!

Cigarette lighter is normally supplied from fuse F44, via the faulty relay T12. Socket should be OK now. See my fusebox diagram, and reverse my mods in note 3.

Thanks.

 

[Techmoto]

You may be able to prise the cover off with a small screwdriver, but do take care of fingers. I suspect that the contacts will have burnt away and lost their polished finish. I cannot remember when I bought my first ex RAF, WD (now MoD) surplus relay, but perhaps 1948. I hav played and worked with them ever since.

My PVC is an 2006 x244 2.8jtd, without EGR and ABS, so probably identical to your base vehicle

Cigarette lighter is normally supplied from fuse F44, via the faulty relay T12. Socket should be OK now. See my fusebox diagram, and reverse my mods in note 3.

Amazing - thanks - I may have to keep you on speed dial We bought ours second hand and a few surprises along the way. I'm getting used to fixing it every time we go out

If the replacement of T12 fixes the power issues too - that would be awesome - and would explain why that went at a similar time.

Thanks again - saved me another job tonight of wiring in new lighter sockets

Have a great week ahead. Your good deed for the day is very much done