Technical battery light staying on

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Technical battery light staying on

boothy99

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huddersfield
battery light coming on after driving a minute or so, also intermittent problem with power steering , going heavy then returning to normal. think i've see na previous thread somewhere saying it's an electronic power steering fault, put a new battery on about a month ago so don't think it will be that though the stop start still doesn't work
 
The battery light is intended to tell you that the alternator is not charging the battery. If that is the case, the steering will go heavy, as it demands a high current.
A steering fault will not illuminate the battery light.
A common fault is the main battery earth cable, from battery, to body, then onto gearbox. These corrode internally, so can look fine, but struggle to pass current. A failure of this will cause the issue you describe.
It could of course be a simple matter of the alternator failing.

If after a normal start, the battery light goes off, but then comes on again, I'd be leaning towards the cable as the problem. Does the light illuminating coincide with any gearchange, moving away, or other action that might cause the engine to move on its mountings? That would definitely point to a cable breaking internally.
If you have access to jump leads, put one between the battery negative terminal, and the engine. If the problem goes away, the cable is at fault. A voltmeter across the battery will show if the alternator is charging. Should give around 14v with the engine running. If not, wriggle the earth cable, (under the battery, so be careful not to touch anything moving, or hot.) If the voltage changes, that again shows the cable as the problem. If the cable if fine, the alternator is the most likely problem.
The main power cable could be at fault, but this is less common. Check all connections, and inspect for cleanliness.
 
Ignore the power steering, if the the body computer isn't seeing a charge it will switch off the power steering to preserve what's left in the battery

So let's fix the charging first

When the engines rpm are over 700 the body computer again starts to monitors from D+

If it goes below 5.5V it will tell the dash to put the light on

D+ and battery charge should be the same when the engines running

Just had a new battery a loose or dirty battery terminal is likely


But there's lots of other cause,
Bad alternator
Bad Wiring
Loose wiring
Body computer
Slipping belt
Just to name

I would start with undoing the battery cleaning inside the terminals and battery post with a green scouring pad a

Visual inspection of the alternator case for crack, especially if you driven through deep water recently

Visual inspection of the earth on the gearbox

Visual inspection of the aux belt

Wiggle the earth and thick red leads and see if the light cones on or goes out

Do you have a test light, multi meter
 
Ignore the power steering, if the the body computer isn't seeing a charge it will switch off the power steering to preserve what's left in the battery

So let's fix the charging first

When the engines rpm are over 700 the body computer again starts to monitors from D+

If it goes below 5.5V it will tell the dash to put the light on

D+ and battery charge should be the same when the engines running

Just had a new battery a loose or dirty battery terminal is likely


But there's lots of other cause,
Bad alternator
Bad Wiring
Loose wiring
Body computer
Slipping belt
Just to name

I would start with undoing the battery cleaning inside the terminals and battery post with a green scouring pad a

Visual inspection of the alternator case for crack, especially if you driven through deep water recently

Visual inspection of the earth on the gearbox

Visual inspection of the aux belt

Wiggle the earth and thick red leads and see if the light cones on or goes out

Do you have a test light, multi meter
this is in the mk 3 section & it is a twinair
 
The battery light is intended to tell you that the alternator is not charging the battery. If that is the case, the steering will go heavy, as it demands a high current.
A steering fault will not illuminate the battery light.
A common fault is the main battery earth cable, from battery, to body, then onto gearbox. These corrode internally, so can look fine, but struggle to pass current. A failure of this will cause the issue you describe.
It could of course be a simple matter of the alternator failing.

If after a normal start, the battery light goes off, but then comes on again, I'd be leaning towards the cable as the problem. Does the light illuminating coincide with any gearchange, moving away, or other action that might cause the engine to move on its mountings? That would definitely point to a cable breaking internally.
If you have access to jump leads, put one between the battery negative terminal, and the engine. If the problem goes away, the cable is at fault. A voltmeter across the battery will show if the alternator is charging. Should give around 14v with the engine running. If not, wriggle the earth cable, (under the battery, so be careful not to touch anything moving, or hot.) If the voltage changes, that again shows the cable as the problem. If the cable if fine, the alternator is the most likely problem.
The main power cable could be at fault, but this is less common. Check all connections, and inspect for cleanliness.
 
this is in the mk 3 section & it is a twinair
Unfortunately the twinair is post 2012 so a mk4 on this forum

Anyhow except for the start stop they are very similar charging circuits so run on here if you want

Help for the start stop might be limited here though

I don't have access to the latter wiring diagrams
 
Ignore the power steering, if the the body computer isn't seeing a charge it will switch off the power steering to preserve what's left in the battery

So let's fix the charging first

When the engines rpm are over 700 the body computer again starts to monitors from D+

If it goes below 5.5V it will tell the dash to put the light on

D+ and battery charge should be the same when the engines running

Just had a new battery a loose or dirty battery terminal is likely


But there's lots of other cause,
Bad alternator
Bad Wiring
Loose wiring
Body computer
Slipping belt
Just to name

I would start with undoing the battery cleaning inside the terminals and battery post with a green scouring pad a

Visual inspection of the alternator case for crack, especially if you driven through deep water recently

Visual inspection of the earth on the gearbox

Visual inspection of the aux belt

Wiggle the earth and thick red leads and see if the light cones on or goes out

Do you have a test light, multi meter
hi. thanks for the reply, i cleaned the terminals up when i changed the battery.which was around about a month ago & this problem started saturday. if the computer was detecting low charge would it not stop the power steering functioning all the time? or would it be intermittent like mines doing. i connected a jump lead from the neg terminal but struggled to clamp it directly on the engine the best i could do was the bolt for the engine mount but the mounts alloys so it probably wasn't earthing. i.'m taking to my mate who's more au fait with the electrical side & he has a multi meter so we'll se what that brings. i'll let you know the outcome. thanks again john
 
Ignore the power steering, if the the body computer isn't seeing a charge it will switch off the power steering to preserve what's left in the battery

So let's fix the charging first

When the engines rpm are over 700 the body computer again starts to monitors from D+

If it goes below 5.5V it will tell the dash to put the light on

D+ and battery charge should be the same when the engines running

Just had a new battery a loose or dirty battery terminal is likely


But there's lots of other cause,
Bad alternator
Bad Wiring
Loose wiring
Body computer
Slipping belt
Just to name

I would start with undoing the battery cleaning inside the terminals and battery post with a green scouring pad a

Visual inspection of the alternator case for crack, especially if you driven through deep water recently

Visual inspection of the earth on the gearbox

Visual inspection of the aux belt

Wiggle the earth and thick red leads and see if the light cones on or goes out

Do you have a test light, multi meter
Sorry to chip in, and it's probably blatantly obvious, but what do you mean by D+
 
battery light coming on after driving a minute or so, also intermittent problem with power steering , going heavy then returning to normal. think i've see na previous thread somewhere saying it's an electronic power steering fault, put a new battery on about a month ago so don't think it will be that though the stop start still doesn't work

Not uncommon to have issues, change the battery because its easy.. then get to the actual problem a few weeks later.. weve all done that


What was it doing A MONTH AGO that made you swap the battery??

Probably help to explain where we are now :)
 
Sorry to chip in, and it's probably blatantly obvious, but what do you mean by D+
D+ is the little wire connects directly from the alternator to the body computer (BSI)

At igntion on the BSI has 12V floating but the alternator acts as a pull down resistor (through internal resistance to the case) pulling D+ to around 1V (has to be below 5.5V) this tests the wire and if above 5.5V it puts the dash light on

When you start to crank the D+ is sent 12V (actually current) this is to excite the windings and start the whole charging process

When the ECU detects a crank speed of above 750 Rpm power is cut and D+ just follows B+ (the big red cable)


The BSI still monitors D+ and if it detects below 5.5V it switches on the dash light

Depending on the BSI software it can shut things down so you can get home or to a garage

Bravo diesel for example shuts of the glow plugs and EPS if an error is detected
 
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hi. thanks for the reply, i cleaned the terminals up when i changed the battery.which was around about a month ago & this problem started saturday. if the computer was detecting low charge would it not stop the power steering functioning all the time?
Only when less than 5.5V is detected on D+ or above 5.5V at ignition on
or would it be intermittent like mines doing.

Loose wire, chaffing wire, faulty alternator, slipping belt and other can cause intetmitant
i connected a jump lead from the neg terminal but struggled to clamp it directly on the engine the best i could do was the bolt for the engine mount but the mounts alloys so it probably wasn't earthing.
There's a handy bracket on the gearbox that holds the gearbox sector cables, blow the coolant bleed screw

IMG_20230522_193228.jpg

IMG_20230522_194341.jpg
 
Not uncommon to have issues, change the battery because its easy.. then get to the actual problem a few weeks later.. weve all done that


What was it doing A MONTH AGO that made you swap the battery??

Probably help to explain where we are now :)
yep
 
What was it doing a month ago..??

Poor starting..PAS failure.. something else..??
hesitation when hot which can become quite bad resulting in the car feeling as though it's losing drive then picking up again search the threads i suppose being two cylinder it could be a misfire, i've changed the plugs & coil packs no different , it was the original battery so & stop start wasn't working so i thought i'd change that as a precaution. possibly the wastegate problem but struggling to get the front nut off the heat shield to check it. other than that it's perfect lol
 
just going to put this in the latest panda thread as i thought my model was a mk 3, out of curiosity what's the difference between the two & three?
 
This forum has a strange mark numbering system for Panda. To most people, Mk1 means the small flat windscreen type from 1980s. That makes the 169 a Mk2 and post 2012 a Mk3.
The forum has tried to be clever but resulted in no end of confusion.
Why they could not have used Mk1 and M1a is anybody’s guess. It’s done with Punto Mk2/2a after all.
 
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