Hello there, hoping for a couple of pointers. After years of crap Chrimbo presents, this year I’ve asked the in-laws to get me a car battery for my beloved ‘87 1500. We’re probably taking EuroCarParts fare, but could anybody suggest a good strong battery for my needs. Mine won’t hold it’s charge well after all the years of store/charge, and I like the idea of getting a capacity one that’ll give the car a lift, without blowing up components around it! And while I’m on, are there such thing as headlight bulbs (H4?) now that don’t require wiring upgrades etc, but do a much better job than the candles I’ve had in all these years.
Many thanks if somebody could point me over these two issues.
The battery I fitted was UK type 075. It has a bigger amp hour rating than the slightly smaller type 063.
You won't 'Blow anything up'!! It is good advice to trickle charge the battery, or at least put a battery charger on it every few weeks.
Lead acid batteries hate going flat and it is best to keep them with some charge in them over winter. I use a Victoron specialist charger (from 12voltplanet dot com, worth a visit by the way, they do a wide range of car electrics stuff).
I chose to upgrade my alternator (and its wiring) to a 75amp model - just because I wanted to, the original alternator does the job too.
Headlights - There is a lot of bad mouthing of the X1/9 lights (mainly by those with a below average understanding of vehicle electrics).
I measured the voltage at the bulb (H4) holder it was 9.6volts with the dipped lights on! As we all recall from school, power dissipated in the filament = voltage x voltage divided by the resistance, so 9.6v x 9.6v (=92) / 2.6ohm gives around 35watts! If you had 12v at the bulb it would be 12 x 12 (=144) / 2.6ohm gives 55watts. The reason the headlights are not so bright.
The issue is the route the lighting wires take around the dashboard, dropping volts at every turn and connector. In my case dropping some 4volts on its journey.
A common modification to sort this issue for once and for all (sorry, this does require wiring modifications) is a couple of relays in each headlamp pod, so 2 in each side totals 4 relays, one for each filament and I fed each relay with its own fused +12v supply from the battery +ve. My lights are now as good as any modern car and I think are very good (just with standard H4 halogen bulbs). I have tried these 120% and 150% brighter bulbs by the way in my daily drive, they don't last long. With LEDs it is all about effective heat management as well as the design and geometry of the led itself which drastically effects the beam pattern. Something like the Osram or Philips LED bulbs are very good - like they work and have a good beam pattern I understand, but are around £72 to £135 per pair. Some of these £5.99 mayBay things are likely to not be quite as good!!
If you must try these LED versions then do not make the mistake of buying cheap, they are cheap for a very good reason
The other main advantage of these relays is the lighting switch will not overheat and burn out. Don't confuse this mod with the so called 'Brown Wire Mod', that is a different thing and will do little for your headlights and nothing for the poor old lighting switch.
Enjoy your drive.
