Technical Bad wiring...common?

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Technical Bad wiring...common?

I have what appears FRAGILE cabling in the wiring harness.

Engine sensors..window wiring...
As well as the heater fan.. :/

Is the 500 hatch type failure of wiring common in the gp?

Its not something I have seen reported on here...

If you are referring to broken wires in the harness going from car to hatch, then YES it is common, have myself fixed 2 GPs.
But this is a general error common on most cars, i've done a few different makes and models.
 
One of mine is a 2006 and so far so good. I'm inclined to think that most issues in that bit of wiring are likely to be due to leaking if not fully broken rear washer tube causing insulation damage and then corrosion which will make the wires brittle.


Cheers

Ben
 
Hi there, my 2009 1.3mjt90 NEVER had any wiring issue in those "flexi" areas, only once an ABS power wire that had worn against the body structure (bad path/fixation).
I tend to Believe that sleeping in a warmth garage, thus avoiding many temperature variations, has helped a lot …
Any thought or similar experience ??

BRs, Bernie
 
Cheers.

It appears to be :

drivers door wiring(at hinge point)

Short section of engine wiring loom..
(Diesel flter sensors)

Thankfully hatch wiring appears ok...was as an example of failure mode.

Ive never had these Problems on a FIAT..

Once on an 80's ford.. bad accident repair...wrong routing :(

Looks like the FIX is to insert a section of better grade cable

Never owned a GM product before.. apart from my twinair.. :)
 
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The reason fiat didn't have rear hatch wiring problems in the 1980 s is because they didn't use the ridiculous wire bending techniques,on the Uno a set of brass contact near the bumper connected up with spring loaded contacts on the rear hatch when the hatch was closed but I guess like all manufacturers they come up with a good idea that never fails and then someone sits down and thinks how can we turn a good idea into a crap one.��
 
Very comon in the GP. Door wiring is a fraction short and the connectors go brittle. Hatch wiring and washer fluid (in the same flexi pipe) break. That stops the hatch opening and leaks washer fliud inside the car.

On the heater you'll find a guide to fixing that and FCA sell replacemement harness sections - that must say something
 
The actual problem is the copper inside the wires getting work hardened and brittle.

A slightly longer cable would improve things.

But in reality..is a quick and easy repair....not a big deal.

You are absolutely correct, and its for this very same reason people say dont use copper brake pies on cars but if you use sillicone insulated wire at least the outer casing would not crack open exposing bare wires that can potentially short out to adjacent ones causing no end of additional problems.
 
You'll also find a couple of other electrical "issues" to check:
1. Carefully check the wiring to and from the battery at both ends. They corrode, usually the first you know is the car won't start or the power steering light comes on
2. The wiring to the ECU (computer) corrodes, often on the earth side. You'll find a number of threads on that in the forum


Also if you haven't already, replace the scuttle drain with the modified type (Clicky) that was updated to reduce water pouring onto the alternator
 
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