Technical Bad Idle, Judder and Brake revving

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Technical Bad Idle, Judder and Brake revving

Engine Off12.58V
Ignition On (Engine not Started)12.31V
Engine Started (minimum value)9-10V
Engine Started Idle (stable value)13.94V

Seems slightly low
Ignition On but not Started haven't tried

I have Date logged while cranking normally stay above 11V but it does depend how long it takes to catch, temperature and so on.

All three of my cars have been 14.1 at idle

See if I can test voltage at ignition on later on or tommow

Mine never goes below 14.1 at idle

Rear windows on
Blowers on full and so on

You can if you put everything on at once

Main beam, blowers, rear window, brake lights, reversing light

Get it to drop to 13V but as soon as you increase the revs it goes back to 14.1V
 
Last edited:
Right had a chance to look at my car

This is my 3rd Panda

All have been 14.1V at idle

Thinking about the

The engine Off and ignition On is probably meaningless. The battery probably had a bit of surface charge left.


I get a 0.4V drop after the car been driven and a 0.1V if I leave the lights on for a bit before testing

IMG_20230423_175745.jpg
 
The new TB did not come with new IACV? If not, that's the first thing you should replace!
 
Actually, before new IACV, there is one other thing you should do. And I've mentioned it 2 or 3 times already in this topic, but somehow you do what you do, around it, or disconsidering it.
So, first thing, try blocking the TB. Put your hand on top of it (air filter housing off) and see if the engine continues to run. My guess is probably yes, because it has vacuum leak. Air goes in through places it shouldn't. And it's not the IACV, but around the manifold. So get those gaskets done already!
 
Actually, before new IACV, there is one other thing you should do. And I've mentioned it 2 or 3 times already in this topic, but somehow you do what you do, around it, or disconsidering it.
So, first thing, try blocking the TB. Put your hand on top of it (air filter housing off) and see if the engine continues to run. My guess is probably yes, because it has vacuum leak. Air goes in through places it shouldn't. And it's not the IACV, but around the manifold. So get those gaskets done already!
Already checked early on

"I then blocked both throttle body inlets (to the butterfly valve and the idle control valve) and the engine died very quickly"
 
Engine Started (minimum value)9-10V

Engine running shouldn't ever drop below 12.5V

I guess that's because the revs are dropping below 750 rpm?
 
Already checked early on

"I then blocked both throttle body inlets (to the butterfly valve and the idle control valve) and the engine died very quickly"
Yes, but this check is to be done while the engine does like in that video. There is an air leak in there, it must be. Or, if it does like that and the TB is covered and the engine stops... I was going to say it's the IACV, albeit new... but I'm imagining another, more possible cause. That is the gasket under the TB, on the manifold! Check that thoroughly! Probably there is the air leak.
 
So there is the problem. If it's not air leak under the TB, it's definitely the IACV albeit, as I said, new. Anyway, isn't that new TB a cheap chinese made?
Test the engine, by partialy covering the little opening on TB, the IACV line. And see if something's improving. You can either cover it with the hand or even put a little cloth in it, not too little so that it doesn't get sucked in. Prey post the results of these testings, even videos.
For new IACV I recommend Meat&Doria made. I think this in the picture is the model no. you need.
 

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