Technical ALQUATI motor in newly purchased Bambino

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Technical ALQUATI motor in newly purchased Bambino

I have had an "AccuSpark" (simple, 'hall effect' type) system on my engine for over 2 years--no problems at all. At about £40, very cost effective.
 
Yeah Toshi I’m happy to have a go at making my own. What kind of material do you suggest for the spacer?

Lindon

I measured an original and it is about 5mm thick. All you need is a small off cut of Bakelite, tufnol etc. If you have a local specialist plastic sheet supplier they could advise on the best heat tolerant material. :)
 
I measured an original and it is about 5mm thick. All you need is a small off cut of Bakelite, tufnol etc. If you have a local specialist plastic sheet supplier they could advise on the best heat tolerant material. :)

I can have a look in my box of spares tonight. Might be lucky

Cheers
Geoff
 
Thanks for looking Geoff. I will try and chase it up with Fiat Club and plastic suppliers as soon as I can.
I tried three different things today to cure the misfire.
1. Removed small filter after fuel pump put in new fuel line and started it. Still running rough and slight misfire.
2. Tried to fit my new fuel pump.....rats wrong type. The old one on the 650 has a cut out on the body at the rear end to fit past the fan/generator. The new one has a full length squared body. Cranky because this fuel pump was advertised as “fits 500 or 650”
3. Refitted the old pump and tried to start it but it would not start. No fuel is being drawn down the line as the big fuel filter before the pump is empty.

Am I doing something wrong??
Would really like to nut this out instead of trailering to a mechanic.
NOT HAPPY JAN!!
 
Has it got fresh fuel? My Austin 7 was hard to start and did not run well with old fuel.

If you disconnect the fuel line in the engine bay does Petrol flow out? If not try undoing the fuel tank cap and try again. I think it should dribble out. Maybe the fuel filter that is still in line is blocked
 
I have a spare 'normal' Bakelite spacer (for the IMB carb)---if this will help you, let me have your address and I will pop it into the post to you.
 
I have tried many times to find out more about the Alquati history and also if there was an Alquati badge or logo with no success. So my eyes kind of popped out when I went to a local car show/meet early this year on the lakefront green in Rotorua, NZ. At first I thought this was a Lotus.
 

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As I have mentioned before, it is not unknown for it to be a problem getting fuel through to the pump after the car has been left standing for a period of time. It is also known that modern fuel (unleaded) goes "off" a great deal faster than the old "leaded" fuel, so, as Geoff mentioned, make sure the fuel is'good'---if in any doubt, replace it.
If the fuel is very reluctant to flow through there are a couple of ways to rectify this problem---(1) pressurise the fuel tank, by using a small electric (electric) tyre-pressure pump blowing into the tank filler-cap aperture or, (2) by fitting a 'hand-pump' (as often used on outboard engines) in the fuel-pipe to enable one to pump fuel through to the car's fuel pump. If you are able to 'obtain' an assistant for a few moments, remove the feed-pipe into the fuel-pump and then pressurise the system until fuel flows through. At which point you impress your assistance by demonstrating how fast you can run from the front of the car to the rear of it, and re-afix the feed-pipe onto the fuel pump.
Whilst you are looking at the fuel system I would suggest that you check all the filters, including the one on the bottom of the tank-unit---if there is muck in the tank blocking THAT filter, it will stop the flow of fuel.
 
So how do I access the fuel filter in the bottom of the fuel tank? I put fresh fuel in the tank before. However when I tried to out back the original Fuel pump there was no fuel coming into the fuel filter before th pump so I agree there must be a blockage between tank and pump. The tank fel filter needs looking at but how do i get to it??
 
So how do I access the fuel filter in the bottom of the fuel tank? I put fresh fuel in the tank before. However when I tried to out back the original Fuel pump there was no fuel coming into the fuel filter before th pump so I agree there must be a blockage between tank and pump. The tank fel filter needs looking at but how do i get to it??

Take out the sender unit from the top. The filter is attached to it.

Cheers
 
Thanks, Tomorrow’s job. Will post re progress. I will be picking up a new fuel pump tomorrow too
 
So how do I access the fuel filter in the bottom of the fuel tank? I put fresh fuel in the tank before. However when I tried to out back the original Fuel pump there was no fuel coming into the fuel filter before th pump so I agree there must be a blockage between tank and pump. The tank fel filter needs looking at but how do i get to it??
There's a mesh filter over the pickup pipe attached to the sender unit in the tank. Six small nuts hold it on. I doubt it will be that blocked and I suspect it's a problem of just starting a flow moving. Once the entire supply pipe is filled it would empty the tank by siphonage if the fuel pump wasn't attached. To get that flow started, some people would suck the fuel along the pipe to the pump (me). Others would pressurise the tank using their mouth or a device, (no names mentioned) and others would be sophisticated and have a siphoning tool. You could also find a tiny funnel and with the flexible delivery pipe to the pump held as high as possible but no higher than the tank, fill the pipe with petrol, lower it to start a siphoning action and then quickly reattach it. Some people might call the problem an air-lock and this setup seems quite prone to it.
 
To get that flow started, some people would suck the fuel along the pipe to the pump (me).

Me to!!!!! (y) None of this mucking around with pumps etc...... Sign of a misspent youth, siphoning petrol from one old banger to another on a tight budget!! All mine of course:D
 
Ha yes
I think I’ve drunk about two gallons of petrol during my life. I need my carbies cleaned by now.
 
Just turned the corner with my 795cc Alquati engine and it is starting to go back together after over 30 years of being in bits. Hardest thing has been sorting out a suitable new set of 85mm bore piston rings. So once the crank was back in I defied convention and fitted the Pistons so they are now safe inside the cylinders. More problems to solve but hopefully things will now get easier :)
 

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^^

Hi Dave,

If you have access to a couple of 'V' blocks, a dial test indicator + stand and a 360 degree protractor, you could plot the valve timing figures for the Alquati camshaft :)
(so that we can copy the timing figures :devil: )

If doing this, remember to check what the valve clearance figure for checking valve timing is (might be in the official workshop manual, it's often different from the normal valve clearance settings) and position the DTI plunger this distance from the base circle of the cam lobes.

AL.

Not sure if I wasted my time but I have been on this all morning and some. I have the crank and camshaft in the crankcase and I dropped in a cam follower with another one on top of that upside down so it extended outside of the crankcase and gave me a flat surface to work on with a dti. Came up with the following readings direct from the cam.
INLET opens 50 before TDC , closed 70 before TDC
EXHAUST opens 75 after TDC , closed 30 after TDC
The lift on the cam lobes measure 0.28"on the exhaust & 0.285" on the inlet.
 

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Somebody mentioned that they had a running problem until they removed the 'one-way' check-valve. I have just had a similar problem. Initially fitted a 'one- way' valve between the pump and the carb--no problem. I then decided that a better place for the one-way valve would be just outside the fuel tank--the car would run for about 20 mins then start to hesitate. If I drove it (relatively!) slowly, all was OK. When I got home I removed the one-way valve---problem cured. It would seem that the pump has enough grunt to PUSH fuel through the one-way valve, but not enough to PULL it through the valve. Lesson learned!
 
Not sure if I wasted my time but I have been on this all morning and some. I have the crank and camshaft in the crankcase and I dropped in a cam follower with another one on top of that upside down so it extended outside of the crankcase and gave me a flat surface to work on with a dti. Came up with the following readings direct from the cam.
INLET opens 50 before TDC , closed 70 before TDC
EXHAUST opens 75 after TDC , closed 30 after TDC
The lift on the cam lobes measure 0.28"on the exhaust & 0.285" on the inlet.

Hi Dave,

1st of all - :eek: I have to apologise for giving you incorrect info in my post #4 , my suggested way was wrong, your method above is correct. (y)

Valve timing figures are usually given in a certain order -
inlet valve opens in degrees before top dead centre (BTDC);
inlet closes in degrees after bottom dead centre (ABDC);
exhaust valve opens in degrees before bottom dead centre(BBDC);
exhaust closes in degrees after top dead centre(ATDC).

I'm not sure if there's a typo or 2 in your figures.....


You don't mention if you included the necessary valve clearance figures in your measurements, when factored-in, these change the valve timing figures, basically make the camshaft appear less sporty and also reduce the maximum valve lift figure. Note also, that manufacturer's sometimes state a different valve clearance setting to be used when checking v.timing.


Re:- valve lift. Note that the maximum valve lift measured at the camshaft may be less that the actual valve lift measured at the valve as some rocker arms have the pivot point offset towards the pushrod side thereby increasing the valve lift for a given camshaft lobe lift. This is called the 'Rocker Ratio' and can be, afaik, up to 1.3:1. i.e. every 1.0mm of lift at the cam lobe results in 1.3mm at the valve.

Maybe you could repeat the valve timing check taking the above points into account (if necessary) and report back ? :)

AL
 
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