Technical Accessory drive belt noise

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Technical Accessory drive belt noise

merovingian

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x244 2.8jtd pulsing or squeaking noise from the accessory drive belts area, maybe need new pulleys and belts?
Is there, or so I read, a removable panel behind the wheel to gain better access to this area or is it the anti crap plastic wheel arch protection they mean?
Thought i would ask before i deem to have a look myself or consecrate the job to my local mechanic.
Thanks in advance for you help
 
Most just have a plastic guard on that side from memory it's a 17mm bolt at the front and two 10mm or 13mm at the top a long extension helps with those.

Use a piece of hose as a stethoscope or a stethoscope if you have one to locate the squeak. If it's from under the timing cover I wouldn't drive it or evwn run it until its bwwn looked after.
 
Well it wont be the cambelt it was done 18 months ago, first thing i did when i got it. I've ordered a stethescope form Amazon, when I get all the crap, (aircon etc) overhead out of the way i will have a listen, i hope its not the waterpump as they rarely if ever fail even though so many people change it with the cambelt every 5 or 6 years.



You never change a Ducato water pump unless it's rattley or leaking , so says FIAT tech guys . Which is unlike almost every other engine . Probably because the pump only became driven by the T/B on the newer 2.3/3.0 . I have been working on them from mid 80's models up to new ones , and in over 10 years have only had a single failed water pump .

Hessy... It's doable on a drive but awkward.
Definitely no need to remove engine mounts . However , on a pre '94 , it's easier if the forward facing suspension arm/brake reaction arm is removed .

You'll need a 35mm spanner/socket for the bottom pulley .

The tensioner is pushed out against the belt by a simple spring , and you lock the tensioner in place once you are happy the belt is taut enough , it doesn't spring against the belt in use , unlike the 2.3/3.0 .

I always use Gates/Dayco/OE kits , there's the belt and 2 plain rollers , one for the idler , one for the tensioner , different diameters IIRC on your engine . Yours should be Gates K015335XS , if it's the '91 onwards engine , I have found a different belt on some earlier engines which had shallower teeth on the belt and pulleys . I always wrap the new belt around a cam pulley to be sure it's right .
as an aside , it's 5334 XS for 2.5 non turbo and 2.8 jtd , and 5495XS for a 2.8 idTD.

I don't recall a locking pin for the crank on those , think that only came in on the '95 model . you can get into the teeth for the starter ring gear though , near the inner RHS CV joint , and wedge it there to open the bottom pulley.
There is a place for a small bolt/pin to lock into the lower timing cover , but I don't think it's stand upto the power needed to open the bolt. I think it's really as a TDC mark.

You lock the Injector pump pulley in place with a 5mm bolt , about 50mm long , through a hole in the pulley . I'm struggling to recall , I think you can lock the cam pulley too , with a similar method , using an 8mm bolt . Though there;s hardly need , as there are clear timing marks for it on the pulley and the top of the rocker cover .

make sure when the old belt is off that the tensioner isn't seized or tight on it's pivot . You shouldn't have to loosen the pivot bolt to move it , only the locking bolt .

I must have done a hundred of these......
Pat Horan Motors.com
The Camper Centre of Ireland
Adria dealer.
 
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Well it wont be the cambelt it was done 18 months ago

Actually is not unusual for the tensioner bolt to come loose or be done up wrong in the first place as you have to put the cover on, then put the bolt in and the spacer can fall out of place.
 
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