Technical 2013 1.2 Not Starting

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Technical 2013 1.2 Not Starting

forzaf1

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Hope someone can help me out.

2013 1.2 Panda Lounge.
Full tank of fuel
Purchased from Copart running (pictures show it running). Was in minor accident to passenger side, hence the write off.

It has arrived and straight off, it won't turn over. Its cranking but will not start. Swapped out battery and still exactly the same.

I have plugged in multiecuscan and thought maybe fuel was cut off, but thats fine.

Multiecuscan shows two codes
B1020 - Windscreen wiper relay speed 1
P0621-11 Alternator

When trying to turn over the car, the wipers start randomly every so often.

No errors on the dash.

Any help would be most appreciated.
 

RobCa

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Not sure about with Fiat's but some cars can get funny with imobilisers. After changing the battery, have you tried with the key out, locking the car then unlocking before trying to start with the key again? Could also check all the fuses.
Otherwise I guess it's best to check for sparks etc if the fuel side seems ok.
 

Leroypanda

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Alternator is the issue here, whenn the battery is low on mine it randomly puts the wipers on untill ive recharged the battery, i know you have a new battery on it , but it could be a duff one or the alternator is taking all the charge out of it, check the drive belt and alternator would be where id start
 

koalar

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Try putting a jump lead from the battery negative to a clean bit of metal on the engine block


Are the codes present

If you clear them do they come back
 
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koalar

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Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on

Does the rev counter raise of the bottom when you turn the car over

Or does the multiECUscan read any engine speed while cranking
 
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forzaf1

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Thanks everyone.

I disconnected the battery for a few days, started again, just cranks. You can hear the fuel pump.

After about two cranks, the dash lights dim and the wipers come on. Again, its just not cranking over.

No revving on the needle.

I cleared the codes and the alternator went, but the wiper one comes back when the voltage i guess drops.
 

bugsymike

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Are you 100% sure its not the Earth cable..or a knackered battery.

Next I would remove the Alternator belt..

Just looking for improvements
When you connect/disconnect the battery is there a noticeable spark, like a heavy discharge, if so and there is no other obvious accident damage to any electrical items, sometimes an alternator can fail causing a heavy load which can soon pull even a good battery down, so if you have tried everything else safely disconnect the alternator wires.
If you feel able to do it, I would place an ammeter between the battery terminal and lead, if it takes more than a half amp or so once the car electrics have settled down, then something is wrong. Do not turn the starter unless you want to buy another ammeter ;).
If you have never started it then possibly they bump started it for the demo, in which case the starter could be burnt out.
If there is a heavy load on the system it could pull the voltage down to a point where the ECU can't operate but still let it crank over slowly.
 

koalar

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Thanks everyone.

I disconnected the battery for a few days,

Pointless nothing except time and trip is stored in volatile memory

The only way to reset the adaptive memory is via software

started again, just cranks. You can hear the fuel pump.
Good fuel cut off isn’t activated

After about two cranks, the dash lights dim and the wipers come on. Again, its just not cranking over.
Dash lights dim got to be telling us something. Sound more like battery to me
No revving on the needle.
No signal from the crank or no 5V supply

Set the time

Crank does it start flashing. As per voltage has dropped below 4.5V while cranking

Almost certainly the original battery will be dead. It takes months or years for insurance companies settle a claim. Lead acid battery do not like long periods of not being charged. Even new batteries not fitted to cars yet have to be topped up every 3 months
 
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forzaf1

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I have used two used batteries on the car. When removing the old battery there was alot of what appears to be salt, like it was caked on in the tray and around the battery connectors. Not sure why or what relevance that may have?
 

koalar

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I have used two used batteries on the car. When removing the old battery there was alot of what appears to be salt, like it was caked on in the tray and around the battery connectors. Not sure why or what relevance that may have?
Two batteries is that including the original ?

Don’t mess around with the battery

Just put the jump leads from a good running car


I can pretty sure that’s what they will have done at the salvage yard
 

bugsymike

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Two batteries is that including the original ?

Don’t mess around with the battery

Just put the jump leads from a good running car


I can pretty sure that’s what they will have done at the salvage yard
If possible I would remove the old suspect battery and clean up around that area as the "salt" is highly corrosive battery acid solution from a knackered battery. In the old days of positive earth we often used to see a large build up around the positive + terminal, don't get it in your eyes or any cuts. We used to pour boiling water over it to clean and then vaseline the terminals etc. Some people use caustic soda to clean? I suspect the battery got cracked in the accident and was left as has been suggested for a length of time.
If you try to start car even with a good battery in tandem and jump leads it's possible that original battery will pull it down.
 

Panda IIs

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If possible I would remove the old suspect battery and clean up around that area as the "salt" is highly corrosive battery acid solution from a knackered battery. In the old days of positive earth we often used to see a large build up around the positive + terminal, don't get it in your eyes or any cuts. We used to pour boiling water over it to clean and then vaseline the terminals etc. Some people use caustic soda to clean? I suspect the battery got cracked in the accident and was left as has been suggested for a length of time.
If you try to start car even with a good battery and leads it's possible that original battery will pull it down.

Dried acid deposits in the tray? either a battery leak (cracked case per above) or it's been upside down or (severely tilted) at time of crash perhaps. Evidence suggests battery needs topping up and charging or throwing away.

Don't mess around until you know there's a good battery in the loop. If you can get it started check the voltage to see if alternator is charging.

One potential drain not considered here is if the blue & me has failed; since this fails "on" and will drain a good battery in a couple of days if the car isn't used. An indicator of this failure is a flashing odometer.
 

koalar

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If possible I would remove the old suspect battery and clean up around that area as the "salt" is highly corrosive battery acid solution from a knackered battery. In the old days of positive earth we often used to see a large build up around the positive + terminal, don't get it in your eyes or any cuts. We used to pour boiling water over it to clean and then vaseline the terminals etc. Some people use caustic soda to clean? I suspect the battery got cracked in the accident and was left as has been suggested for a length of time.
If you try to start car even with a good battery in tandem and jump leads it's possible that original battery will pull it down.
The deposits that build up aren’t conductive and need cleaning up properly eventually

A pair of jump leads normally bit through enough to prove the point

We only need to see it start at this point.

Anyone working on insurance right offs needs at least a set of good quality jump leads, there always useful to carry in the boot.

The very cheap ones are next to useless the cross section isn’t enough to carry the current
 
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