General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation

[JoleePando]

Nothing wrong with your attitude towards this. It's easy for us, with experience behind us and a good selection of tools, to say this or that is an easy task. Then, someone with very little experience and/or knowledge and/or selection of quality tools, tries to do it and finds a bolt hopelessly corroded or breaks off a stud or any of many other possibilities. It's good to know your limitations but also good to try new things especially if you have a more knowledgeable/experienced friend to offer help and advice. Knowing your comfortable limits is to be applauded.

Do you have a local trade factor nearby? living in a big city I have the choice of several. Like these for instance:
SRS, who are my default source: https://groupauto.co.uk/member/24736/srs-autoparts/
Then there's Pentland Components who are only about another 15 minutes away: https://www.pentlandcomponents.com/
Of course there's also the ever present Euro Car Parts: https://www.eurocarparts.com/edinbu...aces&utm_medium=Listing&utm_campaign=Scotland but they're a wee bit further so I seldom use them.
Organisations like these will be who are supplying all your local wee independent garages - and some of the "Big Boys" too, mostly for non franchise sales vehicles. Quality from sources like these are usually excellent and you might get a very pleasant surprise if you ask for some prices. There's also the big advantage that if a supplied part is not correct for your vehicle, getting it changed is really easy and quick.

Cheers for that, Jock! Yeah, this is why I was looking at doing the shocks with a pal. Just learn one thing now rather than overload because I know I won't be taking it in.

We live in the same city, it turns out, so that's helpful. I'll check those places out to get a price for all the parts. I was also looking at Shop4Parts and AutoPartsPro for parts.

If you are doing the shocks you are doing the springs as well, No special tools needed. No additional tools needed. With shocks removed, the axle droops down and the springs literally fall out.

For this as well, I'm still a bit unsure about doing it. I thinkt he whole spring pops off and goes through your skull thing put me off (even though that's extremely unlikely). Again, I want to learn one thing at a time, and my friend's good with changing the rear shocks, so we're going to do that part only.

Thanks for the advice, everyone! Been super helpful in here. I'm glad I joined and I can't wait to get the wee Panda on the road

 

[DaveMcT]

My garage will use parts supplied by me but checks what they are and reserves the right to refuse to fit them. I think that's fair.

 

[DaveMcT]

For this as well, I'm still a bit unsure about doing it. I thinkt he whole spring pops off and goes through your skull thing put me off (even though that's extremely unlikely). Again, I want to learn one thing at a time, and my friend's good with changing the rear shocks, so we're going to do that part only.

Seriously? I am not suggesting anyone should compress road springs with screwdrivers. The rear springs are NOT COMPRESSED until the shocks are fitted. No fancy tools - Nada. Removing a rear shock uncompresses the spring. That's it. No special tools are needed. The axle is supported on the jack so you can remove the bolts holding the shock. Lowering the jack releases the spring. Repeat on the other side, the axle will naturally droop down and you simply lift out the springs.

If you have the jack and the tools to remove the shocks, you will also remove the springs. It's unavoidable. Front end is a whole different story, but the back is as simple as it gets - and all the better for it in my opinion.

 

[JoleePando]

Seriously? I am not telling you to compress a front spring with a screwdriver. The rear springs are NOT COMPRESSED until the shocks are fitted. Removing the rear shocks uncompresses the springs. That's it. No special tools are needed. The axle is supported on the jack so you can remove the bolts holding the shock. Lowering the jack releases the spring. Repeat on the other side, the axle will naturally droop down and you simply lift out the springs.

If you have the jack and the tools to remove the shocks, you will also remove the springs. It's unavoidable. Front end is a whole different story, but the back is as simple as it gets - and all the better for it in my opinion.

Gotcha. The parts are going to be coming to my house when the Panda is outside, so can always give it a go.

Complete novice here.

 

[koalar]

Gotcha. The parts are going to be coming to my house when the Panda is outside, so can always give it a go.

Complete novice here.

Needs to be on axle stands both sides


Yes it's not a panda but the procedures the same

 

[JoleePando]

Needs to be on axle stands both sides


Yes it's not a panda but the procedures the same

I am realising I'll have to source tools for the job, though I'll justify it as "buy once, keep forever" kind of purchase.



I watched the above to show changing the rear springs as well.

 

[porta]

Don’t buy cheap tools, I’ve got screwdrivers, sockets, ratchets etc from wehn I was an apprentice, 1982-5 that are still serving me well…even some ‘teng tool professional’ that I got laughed at for buying at the time!

 

[DaveMcT]

I've still got a set of Japanese made Kamasa sockets and spanners from the mid 1970s. Sockets got lost over the years so I also have a cheap six point socket set that does the job really well. I also have a Halfords impact socket set in 3/8 drive which are my "go to" sockets. I have a heavy duty adaptor to 1/2" drive but have never worried about it coping with a job. I ought to get a 1/2" impact set but it would get very little use. I also have a 600mm 1/2" drive breaker bar which is incredibly useful and much safer than piling muscle into a tight bolt.

Regularly used power tools are a DeWalt 18V drill that's at least 10 years old and a mid 1980s Metabo corded drill that hardly ever gets used these days. I recently bought a 20V torch, angle grinder, impact driver and 1/2" impact wrench from Lidl. OMG what rubbish. They do the job and they do it more than well enough for me. I burnt out a grinder when the cutting disc got snagged but at £30 to replace its not terrible. They rely on battery overload protection but its not quick enough to catch a suddenly stalled motor. The impact driver gets plenty of use but I always do the final torque by hand. I (almost) never use the power tool for torque wrench jobs. The 1/2" impact gun hardly gets any use. It's a bit of bling to be honest.

One the years, Ive amassed piles of pliers, screwdrivers and all sorts of odds-n-ends. Keeping track that lot is a task of it's own.

 

[JoleePando]

One the years, Ive amassed piles of pliers, screwdrivers and all sorts of odds-n-ends. Keeping track that lot is a task of it's own.

The day that I have enough tools to do my own inventory will be a heavenly day for me indeed

Currently in the market for a good torque wrench. Next purchase.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I've still got a set of Japanese made Kamasa sockets and spanners from the mid 1970s. Sockets got lost over the years so I also have a cheap six point socket set that does the job really well. I also have a Halfords impact socket set in 3/8 drive which are my "go to" sockets. I have a heavy duty adaptor to 1/2" drive but have never worried about it coping with a job. I ought to get a 1/2" impact set but it would get very little use. I also have a 600mm 1/2" drive breaker bar which is incredibly useful and much safer than piling muscle into a tight bolt.

Regularly used power tools are a DeWalt 18V drill that's at least 10 years old and a mid 1980s Metabo corded drill that hardly ever gets used these days. I recently bought a 20V torch, angle grinder, impact driver and 1/2" impact wrench from Lidl. OMG what rubbish. They do the job and they do it more than well enough for me. I burnt out a grinder when the cutting disc got snagged but at £30 to replace its not terrible. They rely on battery overload protection but its not quick enough to catch a suddenly stalled motor. The impact driver gets plenty of use but I always do the final torque by hand. I (almost) never use the power tool for torque wrench jobs. The 1/2" impact gun hardly gets any use. It's a bit of bling to be honest.

One the years, Ive amassed piles of pliers, screwdrivers and all sorts of odds-n-ends. Keeping track that lot is a task of it's own.

I'd guess our OP is not going to be laying out on the likes of Snap on, Facom, or other big name professional tools So, like you Dave, I'd recommend Halfords professional/expert range of tools which are pretty good, but stay away from their budget ranges. Laser and Sealey are a pretty good choice too and pretty commonly available. You say you're in Edinburgh? If so there's a big Machine Mart at Piershill, almost opposite the library, where you can browse a goodly selection, but again buy the "professional" quality product. Drive on down to the seafront road, where all the car dealerships are, turn left, go past the city recycling centre and in a few minutes you'll see Halfords on your left which is worth a quick look too. To the south there is another Halfords at Straiton but I've not visited it so don't know how it compares to the one on Seafield Road. Pity Pilrig Motors is no more as they'd have well and truly sorted you out.

 

[JoleePando]

I'd guess our OP is not going to be laying out on the likes of Snap on, Facom, or other big name professional tools So, like you Dave, I'd recommend Halfords professional/expert range of tools which are pretty good, but stay away from their budget ranges. Laser and Sealey are a pretty good choice too and pretty commonly available. You say you're in Edinburgh? If so there's a big Machine Mart at Piershill, almost opposite the library, where you can browse a goodly selection, but again buy the "professional" quality product. Drive on down to the seafront road, where all the car dealerships are, turn left, go past the city recycling centre and in a few minutes you'll see Halfords on your left which is worth a quick look too. To the south there is another Halfords at Straiton but I've not visited it so don't know how it compares to the one on Seafield Road. Pity Pilrig Motors is no more as they'd have well and truly sorted you out.

That Halfords at Seafield has been my second home as of late.

Hadn't even thought of Machine Mart for that kind of thing. Good idea!

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

That Halfords at Seafield has been my second home as of late.

Hadn't even thought of Machine Mart for that kind of thing. Good idea!

Halfords at Seafield? Yes they are my nearest too. I find them very helpful.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Oh, and I meant to say, I can highly recommend Shop4parts. I rebuilt our Panda's front suspension with their parts - shocks, springs, top mounts, etc, etc. Some of the brand names I'd never heard of but they explained it's because they source direct from Italian suppliers so they are names we are not familiar with. Several years down the line now and nothing has broken or leaked, all good. I've had other stuff from them too and it's all been good quality ("Original Birth", which is one of their brand names, does sound a bit strange though doesn't it? but fear not, all good stuff)

I haven't needed to order from them of late but last time I ordered there is a forum discount which you can access if you make a small donation, which unlocks it (it only needs to be very small - bigger is better for the forum of course) Also shipping on larger orders - used to be over £25 - is free. I've found it's only worth doing if you can get the free shipping, if not then I'm as well going to SRS, but if you can then it's well worth it. They are also very approachable on the phone if you need to ask about a part. Know also that they seem to hold stuff, or can source it, which doesn't appear on the listings, so if you can't find what you're looking for it's always worth ringing them.

 

[JoleePando]

Oh, and I meant to say, I can highly recommend Shop4parts. I rebuilt our Panda's front suspension with their parts - shocks, springs, top mounts, etc, etc. Some of the brand names I'd never heard of but they explained it's because they source direct from Italian suppliers so they are names we are not familiar with. Several years down the line now and nothing has broken or leaked, all good. I've had other stuff from them too and it's all been good quality ("Original Birth", which is one of their brand names, does sound a bit strange though doesn't it? but fear not, all good stuff)

I haven't needed to order from them of late but last time I ordered there is a forum discount which you can access if you make a small donation, which unlocks it (it only needs to be very small - bigger is better for the forum of course) Also shipping on larger orders - used to be over £25 - is free. I've found it's only worth doing if you can get the free shipping, if not then I'm as well going to SRS, but if you can then it's well worth it. They are also very approachable on the phone if you need to ask about a part. Know also that they seem to hold stuff, or can source it, which doesn't appear on the listings, so if you can't find what you're looking for it's always worth ringing them.

Thanks for that, Jock. I'm compiling a list of parts right now. If anyone could weigh in on things, that'd be amazng.

First of all, it lists the Panda as MKII 03-09 then MKIII 09-12. Mine is 59 plate (first registered 2010) so I'm a little confused as by their site. I was under the impression the MKIII was 2012 and above, but it has this listed as MKIV.

If it is the MKII parts I should buy, I was looking at the following:
Rear shocks - I need two. Do I need two of these or does it come as a set of two?
Handbrake cable RH and LH
Rear brake shoes - One thing I was asked is if these would have the little springs. It doesn't look like it does, so if I can get those elsewhere let me know.
Rear springs - Again 2 of these

Another shop I was looking at was AutoPartsPro
Rear shocks
Handbrake cable RH and LH
Rear brake shoes
Rear springs

Am I missing something here at all?

 

[DaveMcT]

To be fair, you can get a big 1/4" and 1/2" six point socket set for about £50. The ratchet handles are rubbish but the sockets are good enough for DIY spannering. Spend more serious money on 3/8 drive impact spec sockets and three decent ratchet handles. You might break the odd cheap socket but you can replace with individual good ones. 75% hardly ever get used so they don't get chance to be abused. Also get a 1/2" drive 600mm breaker bar. One of the best £20 you'll spend.

For actual spanners definitely get a good quality pro set in ring/open end. You could also get a cheap set of angled end ring spanners. They almost never get used but are handy when you need them.

I also have a pair of impact spec socket adapters - 1/2" to 3/8" and the other way. Yobbo brand versions will allow you to use any socket with any handle. It's often handy to drive a large socket with a small handle.

 

[DaveMcT]

You can buy everything to rebuild the rear brakes - drums, shoes, springs, adjusters and back plates. Pull off your drums and look inside. You will probably need only the drums, shoes and fitting kit. Check under the hydraulic cylinder seals. Replace if there's any fluid leakage. Mine at 120.000 are fine.

Obviously, do your own diligence but these are probably all you need.

Drums and pads

FIAT PANDA 1.2 8 VALVE 08-TWO REAR BRAKE DRUMS AND A SET OF BRAKE SHOES LH & RH | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FIAT PANDA 1.2 8 VALVE 08-TWO REAR BRAKE DRUMS AND A SET OF BRAKE SHOES LH & RH at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

Fitting kit

for FIAT PANDA 2003-2010 REAR Drum Brake Shoe Fitting Kit (SH0014) | eBay

Fiat Panda 169_ 2003 05/2010. Brake Caliper Pistons. a Brake Shoe fitting kit(REAR) enough for(2) brake drums to fit. for LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2000-2006 REAR Drum Brake Shoe Fitting Kit (SH0029). for VW POLO 2001-2021 REAR Drum Brake Shoe Fitting Kit (SH0680).

www.ebay.co.uk

It's well worth degreasing, priming and painting the new drums. It's a hidden bling but looks so much nicer than rust encrusted clag they otherwise become.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Thanks for that, Jock. I'm compiling a list of parts right now. If anyone could weigh in on things, that'd be amazng.

First of all, it lists the Panda as MKII 03-09 then MKIII 09-12. Mine is 59 plate (first registered 2010) so I'm a little confused as by their site. I was under the impression the MKIII was 2012 and above, but it has this listed as MKIV.

If it is the MKII parts I should buy, I was looking at the following:
Rear shocks - I need two. Do I need two of these or does it come as a set of two?
Handbrake cable RH and LH
Rear brake shoes - One thing I was asked is if these would have the little springs. It doesn't look like it does, so if I can get those elsewhere let me know.
Rear springs - Again 2 of these

Another shop I was looking at was AutoPartsPro
Rear shocks
Handbrake cable RH and LH
Rear brake shoes
Rear springs

Am I missing something here at all?

If you're going with S4p then the MK111 09-12 is the list to look at. However you can get in a bit of a pickle with some of their recommendations. For instance they recommend the later thermostat: https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=...a_III_(09_to_12)_1.2_8v_Thermostats_&_Flanges which is actually for the 69hp engine which was fitted from sometime in 2011 onwards. Mine, being the 60hp engine, uses the earlier thermostat which was in them since the first models back in '03: https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=...da_II_(04_to_09)_1.2_8v_Thermostats_&_Flanges Supplying them with the reg no and vin soon sorts these problems out.

SRS - and the other factors - work with the reg number and have, so far, always supplied correct parts.

Shocks are usually supplied one to a pack - so you would order two (but why not just ask to be sure?

Rear brake shoes come in an axle set pack - so 4 shoes, two for each side. I've never seen them come with the springs in the pack, just the shoes with handbrake levers attached. When I did Becky's The existing springs etc all looked to be in good order so I just fitted them back again. Take a careful look at the adjusters though which can be well seized. Again, after freeing off and a sparing application of light oil then wiped off with a cloth so no oil was left to gather dust, and I refitted them. This is my usual procedure. I'd only fit new parts if the old ones were unserviceable due to corrosion, wear, or damage. Usually I find you don't need a spring kit

I'm not sure if you're going to have a go at the rear brakes yourself? If you are have you had a go at getting the rear drums off yet? Becky's were a pain. the drums were quite worn with a ridge stopping the drum from pulling over the shoes. If yours are like this then slacken off the handbrake adjusters (under the central console) until the cables are completely slack. This will make sure the shoes are as far retracted as possible. If they still put up a fight then reinstall a couple of wheel bolts but only by a few turns, not tightened up. Then you can use a long lever through the bolts to turn the drum while you start to lever it over the shoes. Levering and turning the drum at the same time helps the drum to "walk" that lip over the linings. If you were going to reuse the old drums then grind or file this lip off to make it easier to get the drum off next time.

Before you start in on the shoes you need to press each of the wheel cylinder pistons back into the cylinder so you can check they haven't seized and pull the rubber dust seals back on the cylinders to check if they are leaking fluid. Sometimes it's possible to free off a lightly seized piston, but it'll probably only seize up again soon. however if there's brake fluid under the dust seals then the cylinder definitely needs renewing. If you don't it'll just leak fluid onto the new shoes and that will ruin them as there isn't really any way to clean contaminated friction matterial.

Does that help? Please do ask more if you think I can help.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Having talked about the possibility of needing to renew wheel cylinders, it occurs to me that you have probably never done a wheel cylinder? If so, and you intend to get much more involved with car repairs generally, it's a great thing to learn, indeed I'd say it's a must. However it's littered with possible "potholes" for the unwary. Securing bolts can be very difficult to undo due to rust - and one on each side "hides" quite nicely making them difficult to undo anyway. The hydraulic brake line securing nut (tube nut) can be very difficult to free off and you can ruin the metal brake pipe as you try meaning you need to make a new brake pipe. On the upside you can buy pipe flare forming tools quite cheaply these days so it's definitely doable for the serious DIYer: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26231914...Pndn9nWd/90+Ao/idhaNI5aA==|tkp:Bk9SR4Ld0cKKYg Of course the system will then have air in it which will need to be bled out, generally not a difficult thing to do, but again, if you've never done it before?

 

[JoleePando]

Fitting kit

for FIAT PANDA 2003-2010 REAR Drum Brake Shoe Fitting Kit (SH0014) | eBay

Fiat Panda 169_ 2003 05/2010. Brake Caliper Pistons. a Brake Shoe fitting kit(REAR) enough for(2) brake drums to fit. for LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2000-2006 REAR Drum Brake Shoe Fitting Kit (SH0029). for VW POLO 2001-2021 REAR Drum Brake Shoe Fitting Kit (SH0680).

www.ebay.co.uk

That fitting kit was exactly what I was talking about. I didn't have the word for it, so thanks for that.

f you're going with S4p then the MK111 09-12 is the list to look at. However you can get in a bit of a pickle with some of their recommendations. For instance they recommend the later thermostat: https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=...a_III_(09_to_12)_1.2_8v_Thermostats_&_Flanges which is actually for the 69hp engine which was fitted from sometime in 2011 onwards. Mine, being the 60hp engine, uses the earlier thermostat which was in them since the first models back in '03: https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=...da_II_(04_to_09)_1.2_8v_Thermostats_&_Flanges Supplying them with the reg no and vin soon sorts these problems out.

I'll perhaps contact them before I buy parts to double-check as I don't want to be buying and returning too many things. Not a huge hassle if I need to, but extra work.

SRS - and the other factors - work with the reg number and have, so far, always supplied correct parts.

In saying the above, it may be worth paying a little more and going to the local place to get the exact right thing.

I'll let you know soon how everything goes as I should have the car up and running within the week.

Once the mechanical parts are done, it's on to the aesthetics (fitted carpets, CD player, speakers, etc.)

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I see the spring kit recommended by Dave is a "Big Red" product: https://www.biggred.co.uk/ That's a company well worth saving for future reference.

Do let us know when you've got her completed won't you, a picture would be nice?