Technical 2007 1.2 Eleganza engine management light

[BertH]

Hi all,

Lurked for a while, but never posted. Owned my Panda for as long as I’ve been driving: 5 years.
The hitherto trusty steed had to do her first 1 hour plus run to London over the past week.
Had engine management light pop up last Sunday (11th) en route to London. Light stayed on; went off on the Tuesday, and stayed off…until I drove back home from London yesterday (16th) when it came back on again. This time I saw that the temperature gauge had dropped to zero - unsure whether it had done so at the first occurrence.
Temp reading only seemed to come back up once demist mode had turned itself off. Even then it didn’t come up to where it should be - was only a quarter up the gauge, and it’s usually halfway.
Any ideas? My instinct is temp sensor but I can’t say I’m particularly knowledgeable - certainly less so than a good few here!

Many thanks in advance

 

[jrkitching]

Hello and welcome to the forum.

These are the usual symptoms of a failed thermostat, a very common fault. The internal seal perishes, allowing coolant to flow when it should be firmly shut. Most of the regular Panda owners on here have replaced theirs by now (including myself). Fortunately this is a cheap and easy repair. Parts should be around £10, and it's an easy DIY job to change it. If you don't fancy doing it yourself, it's less than an hour's work for any halfway competent small garage, so the labour charge should be reasonable too.

Don't just ignore it, as a cold running engine will overfuel and you'll get rubbish economy and increased wear.

 

[BertH]

That is perfect - thank you very much indeed!

 

[koalar]

Symptoms

Cause

Diagnostic tests

common problem with thermostate | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

when the weather get cold we get loads of cooling issues heaters only blowing warm P0115 error radiator fans coming on fast. gauge dropping down occationly. gauge only going up 1/4 way 90% are down to a missing rubber gasket inside the thermostat. Because the thermostat is opening and...

www.fiatforum.com

 

[koalar]

Garage or repair yourself ?

 

[BertH]

Garage or repair yourself ?

Looking at the task in Haynes, I reckon I can do this one. Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

 

[DaveMcT]

Check the steel coolant pipe that runs across front of engine. They are noted for rusting. A pinhole can drop coolant levels low enough to cause engine damage.

 

[ben]

Looking at the task in Haynes, I reckon I can do this one. Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

If you do, it would be awesome if you could create a guide for us

 

[koalar]

Looking at the task in Haynes, I reckon I can do this one. Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

Cool

Yes easy if you are use to working on cars and doable by most

Be careful to order the correct thermostat. There’s two types fitted yours should be the earlier and cheaper type. Take a look it’s on the right hand side just to the left of the battery. Make sure the part you order comes with a new gasket, a few don’t


Unless it’s been off before you will also need some hose clamps. You can pick them up normally from Wicks, B & Q or the like


You will also probably need something to scrape the matting face clean. Old credit card and a kitchen scouring pad would probably do

 

[BertH]

If you do, it would be awesome if you could create a guide for us

I shall endeavour to do so. If I don’t cock it up!

 

[BertH]

Check the steel coolant pipe that runs across front of engine. They are noted for rusting. A pinhole can drop coolant levels low enough to cause engine damage.

I shall - thank you.

 

[ben]

I shall endeavour to do so. If I don’t cock it up!

Haha, good luck!

 

[BertH]

Cool

Yes easy if you are use to working on cars and doable by most

Be careful to order the correct thermostat. There’s two types fitted yours should be the earlier and cheaper type. Take a look it’s on the right hand side just to the left of the battery. Make sure the part you order comes with a new gasket, a few don’t


Unless it’s been off before you will also need some hose clamps. You can pick them up normally from Wicks, B & Q or the like


You will also probably need something to scrape the matting face clean. Old credit card and a kitchen scouring pad would probably do

Yes, I’m reasonably used to working on cars, and my dad will want to assist for sure; between us we should make a go of it! Should be grand.
Thank you very much for the additional tips - greatly appreciated.

 

[Yolanda]

As said previously an easy job. Check this forum for the air bleeding instructions when filling up with coolant.

 

[BertH]

So, thermostat replacement finally happened yesterday - my stat was indeed the simpler type.
Stupidly, I didn’t read some of the tips in other posts linked in previous posts on this thread…and the forward ECU connector is now Ty-Rap’d in place, as the blasted connector locking slide disintegrated upon removal.
But it was, all told, reasonably simple. I think the biggest irritant was the removal of the battery tray and all the different types of harness clips.
Will try to write up a guide along with the pics I took.
Whatever happens, all the advice mentioned was a big help, and thanks to all of you who contributed - it’s much appreciated.
Hope everyone has a great new year.

 

[The Panda Nut]

`Go to a scrap yard. Remove the plug and chop the connector off solder this into your csar and repir will be permanent. I posted on here about ebay supplier who specialise in connectors. I think in 500 section. Search ebay.

 

[BertH]

`Go to a scrap yard. Remove the plug and chop the connector off solder this into your csar and repir will be permanent. I posted on here about ebay supplier who specialise in connectors. I think in 500 section. Search ebay.

Thanks - this is not a bad suggestion at all.

 

[DaveMcT]

It's well worth doing because a broken connector risks bending the wiring pins on the ECU.

Before you start, fully photograph the wires from BOTH connectors BEFORE you cut anything. The wires should be the same colours but you never know.

When you do the job, peel the loom tape well back, cut and solder each wire in turn, seal with heat shrink sleeve and move on. When done, wrap the bundle with self - amalgamating rubber tape. You will probably find it's neater to cut the new wires to different lengths so the splices wont bunch up.

I would not recommend it I have done a temporary wire repair by simply twisting the wires, folding the twist flat and covering with heat shrink sleeve. When I eventually got around to dong the job properly the joints were solid - a bit lumpy but surprisingly good.