Technical 2005 Panda rear ABS or no?

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Technical 2005 Panda rear ABS or no?

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Hi All,

Its been a while but while lockdown is on i have been dedicating some time to ordering all the parts i need to give my old panda some TLC. i need to do the rear drum brakes. i drive a 2017 I20 now. when i got in the panda recently i realised how poor the brakes are. the front pads and disks where done only around 5k before i stopped driving it so they are good. i dont think the rear shoes have ever been done since new! i have a question regarding ABS. i know the car has it as i have felt it under braking and the light comes on the dash when the key is turned. however i cant see an ABS wire going to the rear. i read that pandas had ABS since september 2005 mine was registered 27th sept 2005 but could have been produced in the factory and in stock for months before that? do cars have to have ABS on all 4 wheels or are there some with ABS only on the front? there are 2 thin looking pipes one is hard (brake pipe) one is soft and flexible but looks like a pipe and not wire. then there is the thick cable for the handbrake cable. can anyone pls confirm as there are ABS and non ABS cylinders showing available

Thanks in advance all!
 
Hi All,

Its been a while but while lockdown is on i have been dedicating some time to ordering all the parts i need to give my old panda some TLC. i need to do the rear drum brakes. i drive a 2017 I20 now. when i got in the panda recently i realised how poor the brakes are. the front pads and disks where done only around 5k before i stopped driving it so they are good. i dont think the rear shoes have ever been done since new! i have a question regarding ABS. i know the car has it as i have felt it under braking and the light comes on the dash when the key is turned. however i cant see an ABS wire going to the rear. i read that pandas had ABS since september 2005 mine was registered 27th sept 2005 but could have been produced in the factory and in stock for months before that? do cars have to have ABS on all 4 wheels or are there some with ABS only on the front? there are 2 thin looking pipes one is hard (brake pipe) one is soft and flexible but looks like a pipe and not wire. then there is the thick cable for the handbrake cable. can anyone pls confirm as there are ABS and non ABS cylinders showing available

Thanks in advance all!
Theres only one brake pipe going to the rear cylinder that should be at top right under the bleed valve

The Other wire the flexible one closer to the centre will be the abs sensor
 
yep i went and had another look just after submitting my post and could see the rear of the sensor held in place with a very rusty bolt. all the bolts are very! rusty im thinking this could end up being a real PITA! time will tell and i will update when i do the job
 
With the age of the car your best bet would be to get a kit containing shoes springs auto adjusters and wheel cylinders
The shoes and auto adjusters will almost certainly be needed

Wheel cylinders may or may not be needed but can be a pain to change as it can require removing the drum back plate to get good Access to the fixing bolts
 
i have ordered:
x2
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-PAN...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

x2
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-PAN...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

x1 full set
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Pan...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

x1
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-PAN...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

"ebay says it all fits my car" we shall soon see looks all correct and has the correct part numbers listed so should be good!

The only thing i haven't ordered is the adjuster. i have read quite a few forums of people changing the shoes, drums and cylinder but not one person that i have found has changed the adjuster. the car is off road for at least the next 6 months so if i need it i can always order it but it seems like a simple system of a screw and cog and not heard of any complaints of them failing.

just ordered a clutch slave (leaking) and master (sticking) and replacement earth cables and battery terminals so thats me all spent up for now and there is a good full day or two of work to go at there
 
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your order looks okay to me


When you did the front did you check the condition of the slide pins. Both my cars have needed attention to them. Dry grease causing sticking and poor braking.


I find it easier to take the hubs and back plate off. There's one bolt at the back that only a thin open ended spanner will fit. Its not worth rounding off. With all the pain that entails. Take your time disconnecting the hydraulics. Its easy to twist the ends off. I always use heat once they start to move lubricate. Then undo a bit, tighten back up, undo a bit more and so on. Of cause it may not be needed but the last 10 or so joints I have undone have needed heat. Plastic coating burns of so needs covering in grease on reassembly
 
your order looks okay to me


When you did the front did you check the condition of the slide pins. Both my cars have needed attention to them. Dry grease causing sticking and poor braking.


I find it easier to take the hubs and back plate off. There's one bolt at the back that only a thin open ended spanner will fit. Its not worth rounding off. With all the pain that entails. Take your time disconnecting the hydraulics. Its easy to twist the ends off. I always use heat once they start to move lubricate. Then undo a bit, tighten back up, undo a bit more and so on. Of cause it may not be needed but the last 10 or so joints I have undone have needed heat. Plastic coating burns of so needs covering in grease on reassembly

Slide pins? As in the pin that you slide in and out to open and close the caliper? Has a hole in the end with a clip pin in to stop it sliding out? If that's what you mean then yeah I gave them a very light coating when reassembling. Not sure why that would cause poor braking though?

There's a bodgit and leggit video on YouTube for a 2010 panda I will be basically following what he did taking the plate off via the allen head bolts to make everything easier. I have a gas torch to heat things up if need be. Everything should be arriving tomorrow and the weather looks good but I think I'm going to do the clutch master and slave and the new battery, terminals and ground cables first.
Time and weather permitting I should get the rear brakes done this weekend also.
 
In my opinion the rear axle brake lines are best replaced with stainless braided hose from brake to under body fitting. That does away with the axle steel pipes and rubber flexi hoses. A 600mm length from HEL with appropriate end fittings costs about £20 each side. Get it with four grommets and fit with zip cable ties.

Braided hoses are noted for a hard brake pedal feel but it will feel normal if you keep the rubber front rubber hoses.

Rear brakes have ABS. Drums cannot pulse rapidly so the brake pressure is simply reduced. On cars with rear discs, the brakes are pulsed.
 
Slide pins? As in the pin that you slide in and out to open and close the caliper? Has a hole in the end with a clip pin in to stop it sliding out? If that's what you mean then yeah I gave them a very light coating when reassembling. Not sure why that would cause poor braking though?

There's a bodgit and leggit video on YouTube for a 2010 panda I will be basically following what he did taking the plate off via the allen head bolts to make everything easier. I have a gas torch to heat things up if need be. Everything should be arriving tomorrow and the weather looks good but I think I'm going to do the clutch master and slave and the new battery, terminals and ground cables first.
Time and weather permitting I should get the rear brakes done this weekend also.
no the pin at the top that the caliper spins around. There's a rubber seal that protects it from the elements that perishes. Also the grease dries out. If one side sticks it pulls to one side, common MOT failure. If both sides stick less common results in poor brake performance. A bigger proportion of the braking force is done by the front wheels. So a small fault on the fronts have a big effect. When changing the pads its worth pushing the caliper back and forwards along the pin to make sure its smooth. Also the pads should just fall in and be slightly loose. I have had replacement pad with thick paint and corrosion build up in the past making them tight.

Seen that video before. Its correct. Except there is no need adjust them. You just wind the adjusters in. Then with the drums back on pump the pedal and pull the handbrake repeatedly there self adjusting.
 
I'm always cautious when it comes to brakes. I can change pads and disks. I can bleed a line but this is my first time doing drum brakes. I do everything carefully and methodically. (if I remember correctly the pin was in good condition and I'm sure the rubber seal was as well. I think it's more my perception of sharp brakes now going from driving a much newer car with bigger tyres brakes and all round disks rather than 2 disks and pads. Which means when I got in the panda it's probably fine for the car but nowhere near as good as my new car. Im 99% sure the rear have never been done and its at 60k miles and 15 years old so needs to be done. The missus will be having it as her first car so I want it to run well and be sound.

If a brake line doesn't need to be replaced I'd rather leave it be. I'd rather just be careful with the existing ones.

As for age of car I'd bet money it's mechanically in better shape than most other 2005 pandas left out there in my 20k miles ownership so far its had 4 full services including oil, oil filter, air filter, its had the coolant refreshed last year which should last 5 years now. Its had all brake and clutch fluid flushed and replaced last year. Front disks and pads done last year. Rear exhaust back box and centre pipe last year (I gave it a lot of attention last year) Replacement shockers and springs. Replacement drop links. Timing belt pulley water pump and aux belt done 3k miles ago. Apart from the rear spring cups there's hardly any rust on the car at all. Hoping it will last the missus a few years with no problems! Ohh and iv got some anti roll bar bushes on the way also
 
If the brakes are serviceable, there is no point swapping to braided hoses, but of the metal pipes are seizing you might as well do the upgrade.

If you like the hard feel of braided hoses then use them all round, but rather than buy a kit, get a custom pair for the back and use the kit spec hoses for the fronts.
 
Shoes dums and anti roll bar bushes all arrived but the rest has not yet! Wouldn't mind but it's all from the same seller so they could have saved them selves some postage and sent it all together. I have been spraying the nuts on the outside every other day with wd40 so hopefully it's soaked in enough by time they arrive to make it easier. I'll update again when it all finally gets here!
 
Also does anyone know how much dot4 fluid the brake and clutch system takes? 2005 1.1 active It was all flushed through not long ago and I have a 1l bottle unopened ready don't think I should need more than that. Its just I will lose most of the fluid in the clutch when I change both the master and slave cylinder. Then a bit more on flushing the back brakes through...
 
The clutch uses very little fluid. But as all parts are plastic there is really no corrosion issue that you'll get with old fluid in brake systems.

If the clutch hydraulics are worn/sucking in air you'll need to replace master and slave complete with the lines. They come as a two part kit with clip together connector,
 
Clutch slave and master replaced. Clutch is soo smooth and easy now.
Old corroded broken earth cable replaced with new battery terminals and new battery should hopefully sort out the epas issues it was having. Just the brakes to go now
 

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