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600 (Classic) 1966 Fiat 600 Jolly Restoration

Introduction

Hello, New here..Just started on a complete restoration of a 1966 Fiat 600 Jolly. I will be posting restoration details and progress as I go. Nice car to begin with, needs some metal replaced and will be chronicling the process.
Here is the before pics.

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Paints coming off after tear down.
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I am going to do a detailed write up on the removal and installation of the inner rockers and floor pans. I started on that today. more to come...
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How is your Jolly restoration coming along ?

Looks to be a nice example, other than those floors...

Where are you located ? I am in the SanDiego California area. I have a '59 600 that I am working on. Not much 600 info on this forum...

Good luck with your project.
 
Same here ! ! More info and more pics on your wonderful car ! ! !

Also kinda wondering . . . how come there isn't a separate forum for the FIat 600? There are TONS of these cars around and it was the basis for lots successful racers including many Abarths, doesn't it surely deserve it's own forum header?

Wondering and waiting for some pics ! !

Thanks,

TC
 
I will be posting updates soon, I kinda didn't post cause this forum seems weak on the 600...as mentioned. Is there any other place that would be a better source for 600 info? especially jolly? Thanks for looking and I will post soon.
 
Echoing what others have said, very nice looking car :)

The way this forum works is that specific sections will be created on demand if enough people ask for it, from what I can see there aren't enough 600 owners based in the UK to have warranted the creation of a subsection for this vehicle yet, heck the 500 (Classic) only recently got a section dedicated to it. A lot of these older vehicles have specialist forums and clubs around the world so their users tend not to frequent here too much, which is a shame as it does make the forum seem somewhat biased towards modern Fiat.
 
Ok, here is the updated pics. I have a few of how I do the removal and installation on the rocker panels (inner) and the floor. Hope you like...

Here are the seats stripped down, then they were blasted. I painted them the color of a manila envelope, (I can't find pics of that). They were sent off to be redone with new wicker.

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Here is the metal reconditioning phase, I had some real challenges with the metal, not a straight panel on it. I use various tools from paintless dent repair tools to hammers, spoons, and dollies. I have a shrinking disc that helps finish the metal, shrinking the highs. The goal is to make the use of filler minimal. The quarter panels had old damage that was not repaired correctly, the passenger side had about 15 holes drilled in it to pull out the damage and then they didn't pull out near the amount they could have leaving the holes and about 1/2 inch thick layer of body filler as the end result. I have pics of it before I started that I can add later to show you, this kind of bad quality workmanship was evident all over the car. Here are the pics of the finished metal after I welded the holes shut and worked in behind with picks and stretched/shrunk as needed..

Here is one pick of it at the paint strip phase: you can see the heavy repair area (light color= filler)
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Here is the front driver fender, many small dents that were just filled with filler, I raised the lows and shrunk the highs with my shrinking disc, the tops were also not straight by my definition so I worked them as well.
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Here is the rear lid, it had the same poor quality repair work typical of this car, with holes and lots of filler over an old repair that was leaded. It was deep in areas as well, there is bracing on the other side that made it hard to work. The metal was actually touching the brace because of the dents being so deep.
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Here is after my repair work was done.
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First coat of filler primer after skim of epoxy filler, I don't use polyester filler, there is a new epoxy that is much better for bare metal and sands easier. It is expensive but better.

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Here is the inner rocker repair and floor replacement...

Tools used
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I use this type of spot weld cutter, two sided head and spring loaded center helps to do it gradually so you don't spin off.
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I use a center punch on all the spot welds so you can let the bit spin right on the money. It cuts just around the weld and doesn't cut into the metal underneath, occasionally you do go through but not often if you are careful. I use a battery drill, go slow...get a round cut started then speed up...Stop when you "feel" it give, some times there is a little puff of rust when you hit the under lying metal. If you go slow it saves bits, if you go fast they skip off and break the teeth off. I only used 2 bits for the whole car.

You need a hardened tool to brake through some welds that just won't cut good or you can't get to with the drill.
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Here is what you want. You have to grind off the spot welds left on the the metal.
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For the top of the inner rocker I just used a cut off wheel to go against the seam all the way along the top.
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There was three layers of metal at the bottom pinch weld to tackle, just cut around the welds with the drill as before but go two layers deep.
The inside of the rockers was rusty with some holes, I cleaned the rust welded the holes shut and use POR 15 to stop further rust.

Here is the result after the old metal was removed. All the lower areas were wire brushed clean before the pans were inserted. I treated the inside of the tunnel with a rust resistant product at this stage as well as under the dash, much easier to get to without floor pans.
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This is the finished inner rocker. I used a resistance spot welder to do the pinch weld so it had the same appearance as the factory welds.
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For the floor pans..The center 2 inches of the original pan is needed. I wanted it to be as if the pans were never changed so the car has increased appeal and value. I butt welded the center and ground down the welds. so it appears factory. It took some work to make the center oval impressions to line up but it turned out well.
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The owner wanted the bottom the same color as the body, we opted to mix an epoxy based spray on truck bed liner tinted with the base coat for the car. This solves several issues. Covers up any pitting left from the surface rust, adds chip resistance and matches the body. First we had to clean up all the welds and such on the bottom, then prime with a high quality epoxy primer.
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Then the bed liner went on.
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The color is a little unusual but looks better in person. It goes well with the character of this Jolly little car...
Here is the first coats of primer on the body.
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The first was the same epoxy used underneath then followed by a high build polyester filler primer. This gets blocked down with 180. I used a guide coat to find any highs and lows or pin holes. Many people spray on a thin layer of black lacquer or some other darker colored thin primer. I use a can of acetone with some blue base coat tint off my mixing machine. I don't spray it on but rather pour it on a rag and wipe it on. You are essentially staining the primer, this way it gets into every little sand scratch and pinhole. If you are just spraying it on you miss many small imperfections. This method misses none. And the acetone evaporates so quickly it doesn't effect the primered surface negatively. NOTE: Make sure you are using a hardened primer. The acetone will eat into non hardened spray bomb primers Here is an example of what it looks like....this is a subframe for another car.
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Sorry, I didn't take a pic of the process but I will if the next stage....
Here is next coat of epoxy to seal all the secondary bodywork in the first guide coat stage. Highs show bare metal so I always seal it again. Then a very high quality 2K Urethane high build primer...3 coats.
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2k Urethane

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Here is the hood, rear engine cover and engine mount panel in polyester primer awaiting there first guide coat in 180 grit.

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For the inside of the car we had to do some repair work and skim coating to make the metal straight and smooth since the walls will be seen. We then epoxy primed and 3 coats of polyester high build primer went on. I will will guide coat and block it out with 220 and 320 then hit with final primer and sand that with 400, then it is ready for base and clear. I have saved the floor for last to make it easier and cheaper to spray base, it is now in epoxy primer. no need to high build and block it since it will be covered.
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Here is the gas tank after we stripped it chemically, first epoxy and then 2k high build to enable wet sanding and then coat it in semi gloss black.
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I will post pics of the 2k primer and finish later.
I had to make a battery tray...I left it our for after the undercoat because it allowed more access to the inside for coating. I will prime and spray in base coat later.
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I have also wire brushed every single bolt and nut to prep for refinish in either clear zinc or a black phosphate finish. We wire them together by location and put a metal tag stamped with a number that tells us where it goes, like so: This is a picture of another restoration but you get the idea.
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And that is it so far.
 
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Here are some quick updates, not a lot....I have been very ill with bronchitis/pneumonia....not fun and not good for a body guy. I found out I have developed Asthma from my occupation, REMEMBER IF YOU DO THIS AT HOME WEAR A MASK.....I am on the mend now.

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Bolts ready to go out for coatings
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Here are random shots as I blocked the inside panels that really need to be nice....
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I have the whole body inside and out blocked and ready for last coat of primer on all surfaces before I sand with 400/600wet, seal and prime...

I had some metal work to do on the hood. It was dented in the center, I just weld and hand file to make it straight. Here is a pic, (not real clear) of the problem area..I will post pics of the finished repair later.
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Other than that I haven't done much since I was out sick for several days.
Just got in a nice 74 Triumph TR6 conv. to paint.
 
Sorry to hear about your asthma, I've had it since I was a kid so know what it's like - any kind of chest infection hits hard!

Seicento's looking great though, got to say, loving the regular updates :D
Feel free to pop a thread in the 'Non-Fiat' section about the TR6 ... please? ;)
 
I'm impressed by your thorough work and I would love to see it when it's finished! Lots of success and wishing you well.
 
Hi TC, I have nearly finished and eight year restoration of a my 1967 Fiat 600. I recently found out that there are only 75 of these cars are registered with the DVLA. So that's why I have'nt seen one on the road in the UK !!!!! Peter
 
Sorry for the delay, not much to report until now. All painted and pretty. I will be posting a lot more now that all the parts are back from getting refinished. Assembly begins next week. Here is the pictures.....

Baking in the sun before wet sanding begins
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I sand the entire car with a hand block 7 times with finer and finer sandpaper to get to this level of shine and clarity. After we sanding and first buff cut, 3 more stages of buffing and polishing will make it shine even more...I know I am done when I can take read an eye exam chart in the reflection.
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Ok, sorry for the delay, here are the updates... most parts were refinished by the owner of the vehicle, he has a business that does various coatings. We basically have all the mechanical done, short of installing the gas tank and turning the key. All new wiring was installed and we are currently sorting out the dash. All the brake lines are Stainless Steel as well as the gas line. Thanks for looking, Here are the pics:
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Hello, When you showed the seat bars you said you were sending them out for new wicker. Would you share who does this work? I just started a 1962 and want to do just what you have done. Nice work!!
 
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