Technical 1910 1.9TD 100 preheating control unit

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Technical 1910 1.9TD 100 preheating control unit

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SzilardMarea

SzilardMarea

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It's from an 1796-page bundle I found digging through the archives of this site. 79,8 Mbytes monster file. But as it was pointed out by Neverth, it may be a JTD manual after all. If you can't find the file, just tell me and I'll upload it to a fileshare server.
 

franglais

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no no, top right hand corner it definately says td100, i have a download on pause from here http://repair-manuals-download.jimdo.com/fiat/ which i found on the "links" page on the top right of the forum banner. i have a satellite connection, so i will have to wait until midnight to download it, 422mb in total. i will send a private message if it doesn't contain what i need. thanks.
 

franglais

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damnit! you were right, can you point me to the link you found please, no need to re-upload it. thanks.
 
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SzilardMarea

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Just a quick update, the engine starts just fine. I'd like to thank everybody who contributed (y)



There's a dashboard/electrical problem, and a little something about the injection system. Perhaps I'll try my luck with them on these forums, you guys are a great help.
 
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Just a quick update, the engine starts just fine. I'd like to thank everybody who contributed (y)



There's a dashboard/electrical problem, and a little something about the injection system. Perhaps I'll try my luck with them on these forums, you guys are a great help.

just clean terminals, and reconnect broken wire..?,
or slightly more needed..??, :confused:

glad it's fixed..!!(y)
Charlie
 
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SzilardMarea

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Yes, that was all. It would seem that when the clutch was replaced by a technician recently, he accidentally broke it off. Clutch is kinda close to the control relay, and judging from the corrosion marks of the wire, it was 99% broken off before it, and it just needed a little nudge to break.


A word of advise for all owners of the Bravo-Brava-Marea types:

Even though the rust of the subframework and chassis show no corrosion marks, you should remove the battery and check the adjacent framework! It was a whole mess for my car, the battery tray was already started to corrode heavily, even some holes have formed at critical places. And every wire, connection, remotely metallic part started to corrode around the battery. Everywhere else it's fine, so I take a wild guess and blame it on the battery.

Applied anti-corrosion paint,and hope for the best.

Oh, and you were right, you can dismount the relay without removing the battery. The connections are on the bottom though, so you'll need to be able to get under your car to undo the cable connections, or else you have to take out the battery.
 
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franglais

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Glad you got the problem fixed.
sounds very much like you had a battery leak some acid around, my tray (and surrounding area) is in perfect condition.
with the dashboard electrical issue, it is quite common to have the connections at the rear of the cluster need cleaning. a spray con of electrical contact cleaner and some lint free wipes should hopefully solve that problem, while the injector light, you will have to use a laptop to read the ECU, the injector light can come on for a large number of reasons.
 
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