Technical 16V Injectors

[Mark Saunders]

Can anyone confirm the order of the pins in the injector loom socket relative to the cylinders, and what correct resistance should be? Vehicle is a 2000W 16V and injector is 71737174 according to Eper, which I believe is IWP109 type.

My symptoms are cylinder 4 dead (no change when I pull the plug lead) and cylinder 2 week relative to 1 and 3 (pulling the plug makes less difference than with the others). Ignition light is on. Car seems te be capable of using about £5 of petrol in a five mile journey (to be fair, last time I was revving it to the limiter to see if it cleared anything).

The fault developed at the same time as the battery died and, strangely, replacing the battery cleared it for a few days.

Readings on the pins from top to bottom are:
Nothing
25 ohms
8 ohms
25 ohms
Bottom pin appears to be the common.

Both sets of symptons suggest the pins, reading top to bottom connect to 4, 3, 2 and 1 cylinders and I have one failed and one failing injector.

I haven't had the code read and have been playing around with Bluetooth ELM27 devices that don't seem to work with my ECU (Marelli IAW 49F.B2/HW002/4974-MEM).

It looks like a fairly straightforward job to replace the injectors - is there anything I need to know before embarking on it?

 

[martyc5674]

Any chance its your altenator??(causing your batt to go low)...and now battery is startin g to struggle supplying coils...??...just a thought.

marty.

 

[pete123]

I could not remove them undone every thing and just swaped all 4 so now got 3 spare lying around let me no how u get them out with out snapping them

 

[Mark Saunders]

That sounds ominous Pete. Aren't they just a push-fit? Maybe your O-rings had melted?

I managed to get the fault codes read today and got:

P0203 Injector 3
P0204 Injector 4
P0505 Stepper motor
P0170 Mixture strength

As cylinder three is firing and the last two faults are likely related to the injectors, I've ordered one injector for cylinder four and will fit it (if it comes out) and see how it runs then.

Re the alternator, apart from it not showing a fault code, I had established before that it is charging the battery. Maybe the battery thing is entirely unrelated and coincidental, or maybe disconnecting it cleared something temporarily?

 

[marks152]

I replaced the injectors on my dads 2000 1.6 bug and its a nice easy job. It looks worse than it is. Its easy with a set of ramps to get at the lower manifold bolts. The injectors were stuck tight in the manifold. I had to pry them out. Came out pretty easy with a prybar but it did damage them but it wasnt a problem as i was fitting new ones. It would have been a nightmare if I was re-using them. Make sure you clean the injector seats up. Dont get any dirt near the new injectors. They are easily damaged.

 

[Mark Saunders]

I'm just about to get cracking so should have asked this before. I'm only replacing one and don't intend to remove the others from the manifold, just remove the fuel rail and the failed injector. Is this feasible?

 

[pete123]

Yeah once the fuel rail is removed its **** easy as the gezza before said just watch u don't damage the rest

 

[Mark Saunders]

Pete, Mark, did either of your cars have aircon? I've just spent three hours trying to get the manifold off and think there's still a bolt tucked away behind the aircon pump. I already had to release the gas to get the valve assembly out of the way to access one. just above it.

I can't see the fixings for the pump, other than one at the top on the belt side that takes a large allen key and is too close to the bulkhead to get one in.

What a pain in the ar*e.

 

[marks152]

Nope my dads doesnt have aircon.

 

[pete123]

Pete, Mark, did either of your cars have aircon? I've just spent three hours trying to get the manifold off and think there's still a bolt tucked away behind the aircon pump. I already had to release the gas to get the valve assembly out of the way to access one. just above it.

I can't see the fixings for the pump, other than one at the top on the belt side that takes a large allen key and is too close to the bulkhead to get one in.

What a pain in the ar*e.

On the sx it didn't on my elx at the min I used a rachet and the bits on the end and sort of bent it in to place would of been a lot Easyer to woop the rad out or have u

 

[Mark Saunders]

Well, I got it done. I had to take the a/c pump off to get to one bolt (rendering my earlier idea to release the gas and move the valve assembly redundant). In all it took me seven hours and I need to get the aircon refilled (but this will be the first money I've had to spend on it in six years, so I'm not complaining), but it's done. Now I'm chilling with a well-earned beer.

 

[boilermansab]

Doesn't it **** you off when a relatively easy job takes an eternity to do!
Glad you got it sorted..

 

[Mark Saunders]

Hmmm, still got problems and will start a new thread as I don't think it's related to the injector any more.

Car idles fine and revs cleanly, but misfires when running at a constant speed under light loads. There has been no sign of the ECU light. Due to weather, I hadn't had a chance to look at it closely, but today it cut out on my wife as she was driving home. I rescued here and returned to the car, where I pulled the plugs, which all seemed fine. It started and got me about a mile, before cutting out again. This time, I determined there were no sparks at the coil, so swapped the coil for another I had. Again, it started and ran fine all the way home (only about another mile). I took it out again for a run and after about three miles, same again.
I think the coil is stopping, then the engine is flooding. As I mentioned, I'l start a new thread with all of the history and symptoms.


The other problem I have, which I don't think is related, is that fuel is seeping out of the junction of the hose to the manifold. Any idea whether I can get to the nut to tighten it without taking the whole manifold assembly off again? Maybe by removing the ducting between the throttle body and the manifold?