Technical 1.3 TD Rear Axle change time

[Lord Azrael]

Well, it's come time to change the rear axle on my Panda. I've got a new heavier duty one and ordered lots of shiny new parts to re-do the suspension and braking at the same time. However, the one thing I'm struggling to find is the bolts for the axle. I'd like to put new parts on of everything if possible, but finding the bolts (or just the exact bolt specification so I can get them elsewhere) is a nightmare. I've got the part numbers off ePer but having no joy. Does anyone know off hand where to get these or the specifications of them? Thanks. (it's primarily the main axle to boby bolts and nuts plus the damper bolts too.)

 

[varesecrazy]

Plenty of people have documented their changes over the years.. but have used FIAT or pattern fiat

Not sure where HD supply is different ?

Can you quote those part numbers you are struggling with

 

[Lord Azrael]

Hi, no difference in the part numbers, the Axle itself has been manufactured to be a heavier duty version using thicker metal, but all other parts should be the same. The primary bolts that fit through the axle to the body of the car are 16241024 - SCREW + 50701630 - NUT
The damper mounting bolts are 46772138 - SCREW & 50704078 SCREW
I've not yet been down to our local motor factors, but an online search through the 'usual suspects' shows eith odd items located in far eastern Europe at ridiculous postage charges or NO STOCK items. They do appear to be standard bolts but as I've yet to manage to withdraw them from the car due to corrosion I can't measure them correctly and would actually be likley to go down the route of grinding them out to replace them.
Many thanks for any assistance and will get the motor factors when I'm finished shifts if needed.

 

[varesecrazy]

Half the time a Google search will find the Bolts detail..

Some odd metric threads are to be expected though

Look at my damper changing GUIDE to see some variations

 

[DaveMcT]

The stub axles are fixed to the axle frame with four M8 high tensile studs that are about 15mm (or more) too long. The exposed threads rust and jam the nuts. It would be wise to run a die nut down because the threads strip and then the nuts spin uselessly.

I can't remember if bolts can be used but would say they make more sense as there's no exposed threads to cause problems later on.

You will need a bush/bearing press tool to fit new rubber pivot bushes.

Brake pipes will have jammed the flare nuts. Even a slight amount of cliff from the zinc plating expands the plastic coating so the nuts won't turn. Warm them with a gas lighter to soften the outer plastic sleeve. Just enough to soften the plastic is all you need. Paint the exposed ends or use a good anti seize paste to protect the underlying steel.

I took the chance to fit braided lines from chassis flare nut to brake. They are about 600mm long. If you retain the front rubber hoses, your brakes will feel normal.

 

[Lord Azrael]

So, I've got the axle off and now have to try and get all the component part off (stub axles etc) as I cant seem to easily get hold of them. This could be a fair challenge and everything's seized up solid or rounding off! I've cut the brake lines for quickness as they weren't coming undone, so I'll make up new ones later. I love the way with my old Land Rover's that I've got parts catalogues and can get parts anywhere for them, but, although we've got ePer which is handy (it's a bit disjointed at times) the parts seem to be hard to get hold of easily!

 

[koalar]

So, I've got the axle off and now have to try and get all the component part off (stub axles etc) as I cant seem to easily get hold of them. This could be a fair challenge and everything's seized up solid or rounding off! I've cut the brake lines for quickness as they weren't coming undone, so I'll make up new ones later. I love the way with my old Land Rover's that I've got parts catalogues and can get parts anywhere for them, but, although we've got ePer which is handy (it's a bit disjointed at times) the parts seem to be hard to get hold of easily!

Parts can be frustrating

same part can have many part numbers and google doesn’t pick them all up

Standard common parts are easy enough normally

 

[Lord Azrael]

Another strange query... On my 1.3JTD 2005 the bump stops through the rear springs are fitted to the top of the vehicle structure facing down. On the ePer and the parts I also ordered showing compatibility for my model they fit into the axle facing upwards? Change of design during the year??

 

[koalar]

Another strange query... On my 1.3JTD 2005 the bump stops through the rear springs are fitted to the top of the vehicle structure facing down. On the ePer and the parts I also ordered showing compatibility for my model they fit into the axle facing upwards? Change of design during the year??

Eper is wrong. Seen that myself

It’s not the only one some of the engine parts are generic drawings

 

[DaveMcT]

The chassis is scrap so cut the metal away with an angle grinder and slitting discs until you can access the retaining studs. You can then run the grinder disc down the studs and lop off a chunk of the offending nuts. Leave the stud end exposed so you can run the nuts back on and arc weld them to the studs. The heat shock will make the fragments easy to remove. It's brutal but wont take much longer than its taken to write my description.

 

[DaveMcT]

EPer shows four parts numbers for the sub axles all have a 2004 replacement date but there is no sign they are handed.
By the way, they call it "steering knuckle" which is a total misnomer as it does not do any steering.

50702669
50704524
50702670
50704525

 

[DaveMcT]

I wanted to delete my Post 10 but left it too long. This is more intelligible. -

The chassis is scrap so cut the metal away with an angle grinder and slitting discs until you can access the retaining studs. Cut off the the excess thread poking though the nut and arc weld the nuts to the stud ends. The heat shock will make the stud fragments easy to remove. It's brutal but wont take much longer than it's taken to write my description. Replace with high tensile bolts or shorter studs if you prefer.