Fiat 500 auto gear change

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Fiat 500 auto gear change

Car was purchased and just been serviced the car drove 100% I serviced with the aid of my pal at a garage and drove 100% for another 6 months and only last couple of days it’s started to fault so can’t see it being an oil fault or anything I’ve done personally cheers
 
All I need is your bank account number and sort code ,then I will share my inheritance from my father the king of %%%%% land of 5 billion usa dollars with you!
 
Car was purchased and just been serviced the car drove 100% I serviced with the aid of my pal at a garage and drove 100% for another 6 months and only last couple of days it’s started to fault so can’t see it being an oil fault or anything I’ve done personally cheers
It's ok no one is knocking you.
It's always difficult getting all the info from a distance.

This is friendly helpful forum.

Jack
 
Lol didn’t mean to come across like that posting on the discovery forum is like being interviewed by a copper it’s so intimidating being a newbie on here aswell I appreciate the info my mrs works for the nhs and desperate to bottom it so she can get to work ??
 
All I can suggest for now is check robot fluid level.
Check gearbox oil level if any evidence of gear oil leak.
 
I’m going to read codes tomoz and drop gear oil out to see if there’s any nastys I’ll keep ya posted ??
 
I've not used the SCF product before, but it looks like it should be OK, according to the specs. It may even be OEM on other makes that use Selespeed-type units.
So, working on the assumption that it is OK, and that you have no leaks, I would definitely suggest getting it hooked up to a suitable computer and checking for any transient codes.
There may well not be any, but if there are, it's a good starting point.
Re-check the grade of oil that went in the gearbox with the grade in the manual.

Otherwise, the next suspect is the clutch, but at mileage this low, it would have to be a problem with driving technique (NOTE: this is not a criticism of anyone's ability to drive) - the manual gives good instructions on how to drive a Dualogic, but pretty sure a lot of owners have never read it.
 

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Not possible to be certain, but...

Have you had a low battery condition recently (struggled to start after standing for a few days, etc)?
It appears to just be a stored code for bad voltage at the hydraulic sensor, which probably means nothing unless it continues happening.
At least there's not a screen full of "Pressure Low" and similar messages. So the unit thinks it's OK.
(I don't generally use readers apart from MultiECUScan on FIATs as they often only have generic fault code descriptions, which can cause a lot of confusion.)

Dualogic should not need re-calibration or reset of bite point unless parts have been changed. Usually when doing either of those "to fix it" improves the situation it is only temporary, and the underlying problem will resurface.

I think the likely candidate from the information given is gearbox oil grade, but could be clutch wear, or clutch plate contamination from a leaking gearbox seal.

And, unless it is the gearbox oil grade, I'd still be tempted to leave it alone for now unless it's getting worse.
 
Thanks for the reply’s guys , I plugged into live live data and after clearing the faults drove the car and The pressure Never dropped below 39 and as soon as it did the pump cut in so no faults there , I read the links cheers what did puzzle me is one one said open and shut the door ten times and it resets something ??*♂️ So I did and car now drives fine I really can’t see this being right but time will tell .
 
If I were to put a clutch in said vehicle would there be any programming to do afterwards??
 
If I were to put a clutch in said vehicle would there be any programming to do afterwards??
Yes.
But might be worth changing the gearbox oil again IF you're sure it was fine before.
Use exactly the recommended oil, maybe even genuine Tutela brand... not the cheapest but cheaper than a clutch if it works.
Otherwise you'll need MultiECUScan or a FIAT dealer for the calibration steps, and you (probably) can't change the clutch and then drive it to somewhere to get it calibrated.
(Probably... because it has been done, but probably shortened the life of the gearbox, actuator and clutch by tens of thousands of miles...)
 
If I were to put a clutch in said vehicle would there be any programming to do afterwards??
Just for clarity-The clutch is not the cause of the hydraulic pressure sensor fault code. So replacing the clutch would not stop the fault code.
Sorry if you already knew this.
 
Just for clarity-The clutch is not the cause of the hydraulic pressure sensor fault code. So replacing the clutch would not stop the fault code.
Sorry if you already knew this.

Yes the fact there was only one code logged for the pressure sensor so wouldn’t have thought this were at fault as they’d have been loads of the same code in theory so change gear oil then a clutch was suggested in an earlier post
 
Crunch no warnings
Does your car have a container for clutch fluid?

Some robots operate clutch with their own robot fluid.

Other robots use their fluid to operate a clutch master cylinder that operates the clutch using brake/clutch fluid.

If your robot doesn't use it's fluid directly to operate clutch check the clutch fluid reservoir is topped up.
 
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