Lost oil pressure after oil change

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Lost oil pressure after oil change

billthedrill

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Hi all I done a oil change on my camper van a fiat docato 2.8 iTD
The oil pump dose not want to pick up the oil I have check the all the seals on filter and housing checked strainer in sump
Put it all back together and still no oil presuer had cam cover of to see if oil getting to it no oil to top of engine
Can any one help thanks
 
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Did you have oil pressure before the oil change?

Normally all you will do is the filter and sump bolt.
Both will leak if not sealed correctly.
I would pop the sump off ( or use and inspection camera ) and check the oil pick up, clean if necessary look at the general condition of the oil. ie no sticky black at bottom of sump.
My van has a turbo which has a filter, in the lower pipe banjo.
Might be worth checking, if your van has this filter.
They only cost pennies but everyone forgets to change them.

Other than that the pump is playing up. They can be tested. I get someone to pop round and do a pressure test. Or do it yourself.
 
Did you have oil pressure before the oil change?

Normally all you will do is the filter and sump bolt.
Both will leak if not sealed correctly.
I would pop the sump off ( or use and inspection camera ) and check the oil pick up, clean if necessary look at the general condition of the oil. ie no sticky black at bottom of sump.
My van has a turbo which has a filter, in the lower pipe banjo.
Might be worth checking, if your van has this filter.
They only cost pennies but everyone forgets to change them.

Other than that the pump is playing up. They can be tested. I get someone to pop round and do a pressure test. Or do it yourself.
You've pretty much covered it all there. I'm not familiar with this engine but usually we're talking about pretty simple stuff here. Assuming there was oil being pumped around before the sump plug was pulled, nothing else has been dismantled and you've refilled it with enough of the correct spec oil, what might have happened? I guess the used oil, as it drained towards the hole, could have dragged some solids across the pick up pipe strainer which got stuck in the strainer on restarting? There might be a problem with the new filter, but most have a bypass spring loaded blow off valve so that oil can bypass a blocked filter. Thinking about that, the oil pump itself should have a pressure relief valve which could have stuck open?

Just googled the pump. The one that came up looked as if it is driven by a toothed belt - probably the cam belt, but might be a separate belt. Is the belt ok? Could be broken, slack or have teeth stripped? My commiserations, in advance, if it's the cam belt!

I'm sorry to say this sounds like it could be something nasty. I do hope I'm wrong and that it turns out to be easy and cheap to fix. Do please let us know what it turns out to be.

Good luck
Regards
Jock
 
( Just googled the pump. The one that came up looked as if it is driven by a toothed belt - probably the cam belt, but might be a separate belt. )

As I said previously, I'm not familiar with this engine so I was suggesting general faults which might give this problem - although I just spotted that you say you've checked the pickup strainer, so sorry for suggesting that one. (Does that mean you had the sump off? If so, presumably you didn't spot anything nasty inside like bearing metal or other s**t.) Does the engine run, or are you spinning it up on the starter? Not good, as I'm sure you'll know, to actually run it if you think there's no oil supply!

Having Googled that oil pump I'm really intrigued by it. Looks like it is mounted on the outside of the block and driven by the timing belt? Just as you'd expect an older type injection pump to be mounted. Only here we have the oil pump first with the injection pump piggy backed onto it and a shaft right through to drive it? My "pugglt" old brain can't remember having seen this setup before. Quite like the idea though as it means the pump must be turning if the engine runs, unlike some of the VAG stuff I've worked on where they use a separate chain drive off the front of the crank to the pump underneath. The chain can break and you're non the wiser but engine goes on running - for a short while anyway, till it all goes bang! (Or screech as it siezed!).

Here's a wee edit addition. Just remembered. Around the 60/70's Vauxhall had a slant 4 cylinder engine which had its oil pump high up in the block under the distributor. Mostly found in the Victor and performance orientated versions of the Viva and Chevette, CF van too if I remember. I think there was even a Lotus development of the engine. Being a Leyland (BMC) dealership we only occasionally saw these vehicles (often a trade in) but I remember well that if you fitted a new oil pump it had to be well primed with oil before fitting or it wouldn't suck the oil up from the sump. It was very important also not to leave the old oil draining too long at a service otherwise, with the pickup pipe uncovered, oil would drain from the pipe and the engine would run for some time on restarting before it could bring up some oil pressure. You could hear the ends "knocking" away gently until the pressure suddenly quietened them. I quite liked these cars to drive but never considered buying one for this reason. Always fancied a Ventora though!

So I'm just sitting here thinking "that Fiat oil pump is quite high up on the side of the block" wonder if there is any tendency for these pumps to airlock the pickup side? Anyone?
 
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Hi all I done a oil change on my camper van a fiat docato 2.8 iTD
The oil pump dose not want to pick up the oil I have check the all the seals on filter and housing checked strainer in sump
Put it all back together and still no oil presuer had cam cover of to see if oil getting to it no oil to top of engine
Can any one help thanks
Hi Bill. Any resolution to this yet? I'm consumed with curiosity to know what it turns out to be. Please do let us know.

Regards
Jock
 
Hi all I done a oil change on my camper van a fiat docato 2.8 iTD
The oil pump dose not want to pick up the oil I have check the all the seals on filter and housing checked strainer in sump
Put it all back together and still no oil presuer had cam cover of to see if oil getting to it no oil to top of engine
Can any one help thanks

Any updates?
 
Back in the day ...when TD'S WERE RARE.
The recommended practice was to fill the new filter with oil before spinning it on.

Did the Op. Do this?
Always try to do this. Works well on downward hanging filters like my old 1.9tdi Cordoba and can usually get about half full on horizontal mounted ones like our Panda and Punto have. Hate doing my younger boy's Astra which has one of these element types with the removable black plastic top so you can't prime it! I cringe as the cam variators clack away merrily for the few seconds it takes the pressure to come up.

In my early days on the shop floor there were still a lot of cars around with paper element filters like the old B series BMC engine, Austin Cambridge, Morris Oxford, Wolseley, Riley and others. In those days they had a separate paper element filter, as did many of that era, which could not be filled before fitting. At one of the small garages where I worked the standard procedure was to drain the oil and change the oil filter, refit the sump plug and refill the engine with oil. Then, after removing the spark plugs and with either the coil King lead grounded or coil LT disconnected, crank the engine over 'till the oil light, on the dash, went out. The engine cranked fast with minimum stress to bearings because there was no compression and the oil filter filled quickly. Didn't think about it but I could probably pull the connector to the coil pack and do this with the boy's Astra? Oh, but then how to cancel the DTC that would be set? Have to say though that we were in the minority as others I knew of would just start the engine and let the filter fill from the pump - which, to be honest, didn't take more than a few seconds but I liked the idea of cranking it with the plugs out!
 
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