Hi,

I've a problem with my 2006 Doblo MJet 1.9 Diesel (https://www.fiatforum.com/doblo/443017-finally-happened-error-code-p1206.html), I've read up a bit on what might be causing the P1206 error code and I think the first things I should have a look at is the condition of the pipes around the wastegate valve and cleaning the EGR valve (Possibly sticking).

The readings for the EGR, which I get from Multiecuscan, show that when the ignition is on the EGR Control is OFF and the Valve opening is 4%. When the engine is running (tick-over to about 3000 rpm) the EGR Control fluctuates OFF/ON and the Valve opening fluctuates between the 4% and about 50%.

Does all that sound as if the EGR is working OK?

One imagines that the valve should open to 100%, or is it a quirk in the system where its maximum opening is just 50%?

Any advice much appreciated.

Cheers

Ron

Close it, no more ( future) problem(s)...!!
( ignore Greenpeace members... )

Hi,

That is an option if all else fails, but for the moment I think I'll battle on to find what is causing the fault.

Cheers

Ron

If you want long engine life, there's no other option...

hey there, from my experience with egr valves they should be shut with the engine off and at no more than 5% on idle, sounds like yours is for the bin! A clean can work but more often its a replacement.
Blank it if you can!

The readings from Multiecuscan for EGR are the commanded opening, not the actual valve position. There is no feedback from the EGR valve so the ECU can't tell the actual position (or report it to Multiecuscan). The reading you are getting seem reasonable. Next step is to take the EGR vlve off, clean it and check it (or just fit a new one if you don't have the time to clean it). I'd suggest you fit a genune Fiat EGR resistrictor plate if the engine does not have one already. The resistrictor causes the valve to be opened further reducing clogging an jaming. Blanking off the EGR completely is illegal in the UK (and most of Europe & USA) and can invalidate your insurance. It may also cause the ECU to produce error codes. Dispite Peter Pick-ups comments I don't care if people fit blanking plates or delete DPFs, but do want them know the possible consequences of modifying the emissions control equipment on their vehicle.

Robert G8RPI.

Hi,

Thanks.

The sun was out yesterday so I thought I'd take off the egr to see how clogged up it was....I got so far but then came up against a 4 difficult to shift fixings on each end of the right angled corrugated pipe. 2 socket head bolts at the egr end and it looks like 2 M6 nuts on the manifold end. Doused them in WD40 but I'm reluctant to put too much force onto them, round over the socket or snap the M6.

Any suggestions on how to shift them much appreciated.

Cheers

Ron

Note that the socket heads are RIBE not hex or Torx. I use a PRO183 set from Machine Mart
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-high-torque-ribe-power-bit-set-22-piece/
WD40 is not great for tight fastners, try PlusGas or the special RUST RELEASE PENETRANT SPRAY version of WD40.

Robert G8RPI.

Hi,

Many thanks.

Finally got it off today.

It was those M6 nuts that were giving me gyp, well, they looked like M6 nuts on an M6 stud. Looking at them a bit closer from where you could just see the bored through tapped hole in the manifold it turns out that they were M8s with a 10mm (across the flats) head and a short bit of M6 thread stuck on the top.

What's that all that about then?

Easy to break an M6, M8s can take a lot more, so out came the longer spanners and they came undone easily....phew.

Now that the EGR's out the next job....strip it down. More later!!

Cheers

Ron

Hi Ron, how did you get on with your EGR valve problem? Hope you solved it.
I seem to have a simular problem with mine, engine warning light on, scaner shows a code of P0 401 & EGR- Commanded reads 4% also. (this is with engine switched off). and goes upto a maxiam reading of 95.7% when I start the engine and rev it over 3000 revs, which has left me feeling confused as I have read somewhere that it should read 0% when off & 100% when opened fully. Can you or anyone else on the forum advise me on this please, help urgently needed as MOT is due soon.

Hi,

I'm no expert, but the fault I had was down to a sticking EGR solenoid. Gunk had found its way into the plunger/bore and this prevented it from activating properly. If you suspect you have the same then there is no need to remove the all the EGR to fix it, as the solenoid is fixed to one end with 3 small bolts. Once removed you'll soon see if it's clogged/jamming.

Cheers

Ron

Thanks Ron, It seems like the same problem. The readings on my scanner showed 3.9% -pct min and 95.7% max, after starting the engine the graph would show the line moving along at 3.9% at idle, when I rev engine the line jumped to around 89 to 94%, after about 20 seconds the line would drop to 3.9% and stay there regardless of the engine speed, car speed or load. Resulting in a check engine warning light. I removed & cleaned the EGR valve twice making sure the valve was moving freely when pushed open, but to no avail. on closer inspection of the unit I noticed a small hole in the top of the solenoid, plugged with a tiny bit of rubber. This could only mean one thing, that it must have had a sticking solenoid in the past & more than likely it was sticking again. I removed it for the third and final time within a week &
due to the fact that my MOT is nearing, I decided to opt for a replacement unit.
I fitted it yeserday, it seems to be working OK, took new readings of 3.9% min with the line rising to around 39-40% when the EGR is opening. The car seems jerky in third gear when climbing hills, but so far no engine warning light (touch wood).