Hi there,

I have a 1975 124 sedan I brought from italy myself so smog or any of that stuff is non existent, but this is the only forum I could find with relatively the same engine and drive train so here goes.

I currently have a 32DMS Weber dual barrel on the motor and have a leak from the fuel return fitting. I have tried "pressing" the fitting ever so gently with a hammer and pulling ever so gently with a pair of plyer's and a wrench. Long story short, never regained a good seal and eventually snapped off the fitting. No worries as that thing was too easy to get dirty and it's tougher and tougher to get parts and rebuild kits for. Tried getting a new fitting also.

So the question is this: How is the electric choke wired in? what is the load demand and how many wires are usually required. I am an electrician so starting from scratch is no problem. I am pretty sold on the performance aspects of the 38/38 Weber DGES/MS but not sure if I should stay with the manual choke since I have the setup already or if I should try to go with the electronic choke so it's one less thing I get to play with during those cold mornings. And I like the idea of something being automatic on this beast.

Yours Truly,

Dwangpow

If you can get away with it, I'd go manual choke. It's one less thing to go wrong, and folk (albeit not with 124s) this side of the pond spent a fortune replacing automatic chokes with manual ones!

I'd far sooner have a manual choke. On those cold winter mornings I could fire up on full choke then push it in as soon as I set off, each time I came up to a slow point (junction, traffic etc), I'd pull it out a smidge to keep the tickover.
When I got a newer car with the auto choke, I noticed it would still be partly on by the time I got to work.