Does anybody know is there is an electric water pump available for this engine?

Dunno. What wrong with origional one? Electric will cause loads of problems!

Nothing. I am building a hybrid vehicle with the 1.3 as the engine. Because it is a series hybrid we don't need the alternator and we need an electric A/C compressor because the engine will not be running all the time. That pretty much just leaves the water pump that needs to be driven by the belt and if possible i want to find an electric water pump that goes in its place so I can eliminate the belt all together.

I can see where your coming from but the cooling system is for the engine only isn't it

So can't pump be on belt and stop and start when the engine does?

Porject sounds awsome though

Most Easterly Pandas said:

I can see where your coming from but the cooling system is for the engine only isn't it

So can't pump be on belt and stop and start when the engine does?

Porject sounds awsome though

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I wish it was that simple. We are using the engine as a large heat-sink instead of using the heat exchangers when our temperature is a certain range. We are doing this so that we can preheat the engine block which will almost eliminate cold start emissions. Once the coolant temperature coming out of the block is too warm for the coolant temperature entering our batteries we will then have a diverter valve that will change the flow from going through the engine to the heat exchangers. I know it seems kind of crazy but we have the most innovative idea on component cooling for this competition. Worst case scenario I can machine a plate that will block off the hole for the water pump and place a pump just after thermostat on the back of the engine but an electric replacement pump would be a lot better.

raw109 said:

I wish it was that simple. We are using the engine as a large heat-sink instead of using the heat exchangers when our temperature is a certain range. We are doing this so that we can preheat the engine block which will almost eliminate cold start emissions. Once the coolant temperature coming out of the block is too warm for the coolant temperature entering our batteries we will then have a diverter valve that will change the flow from going through the engine to the heat exchangers. I know it seems kind of crazy but we have the most innovative idea on component cooling for this competition. Worst case scenario I can machine a plate that will block off the hole for the water pump and place a pump just after thermostat on the back of the engine but an electric replacement pump would be a lot better.

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yoiu ought to be carefull with changing the pump as when the engine is running it's original pump will have carefully worked out volume and flow rates dependant on the correct cooling for the engine you could cause hot spots in the engine

The Sultan said:

yoiu ought to be carefull with changing the pump as when the engine is running it's original pump will have carefully worked out volume and flow rates dependant on the correct cooling for the engine you could cause hot spots in the engine

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There is a team of 30 student engineers that have looked into all aspects of this cooling system so we are not worried at all. I would assume though that since no one has mentioned an electric replacement then one does not exist. That is not what I wanted :bang:. I will just use an inline pump. No worries.

I'm not sure there is any current road going car fitted with and electic water pump.

However electric water pumps to exist for other applications. If I were involved with this project I would be possibly looking for a variable spped pump that can be controlled to adjust water flow to provide optimum engine temperature when running and optimum cooling as required.

Such a pump should allow you to remove the thermostat. The thermostat is a flow restriction device thus requiring additional pump energy to keep water flow at any rate.

To avoid powerloss if you can't pulse width modulate the pump then you could use several smaller pumps in parallel and switch them on/off as required.

Possibly not suitable "Whale" do in-line pumps (1/2inch with various volume rates) for caravans etc.) These a 12V powerfull pumps but I'm not sure of their efficiency.

Anyway, enough ideas from me. Time for you student engineers to take over

raw109 said:

There is a team of 30 student engineers that have looked into all aspects of this cooling system so we are not worried at all. I would assume though that since no one has mentioned an electric replacement then one does not exist. That is not what I wanted :bang:. I will just use an inline pump. No worries.

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I would be if they didn't bring up possible hot spots in the cooling system!

Electric pumps are available (not sure where), but normally kill an engine due to hot spots.

All cars will have electric water pumps (and probably oil pumps) soon.

When the engine is cold, there's no need to circulate water so the engine will warm up quicker and, therefore be more economical. The engine won't need a mechanical thermostat, the pump will be speed controlled by the existing, or an additional, coolant temperature sensor.

s130 said:

I'm not sure there is any current road going car fitted with and electic water pump.

However electric water pumps to exist for other applications. If I were involved with this project I would be possibly looking for a variable spped pump that can be controlled to adjust water flow to provide optimum engine temperature when running and optimum cooling as required.

Such a pump should allow you to remove the thermostat. The thermostat is a flow restriction device thus requiring additional pump energy to keep water flow at any rate.

To avoid powerloss if you can't pulse width modulate the pump then you could use several smaller pumps in parallel and switch them on/off as required.

Possibly not suitable "Whale" do in-line pumps (1/2inch with various volume rates) for caravans etc.) These a 12V powerfull pumps but I'm not sure of their efficiency.

Anyway, enough ideas from me. Time for you student engineers to take over

Click to expand...

Well luckily we are doing a series hybrid so the engine will only be running at 1800 rpm because that is the most efficient point of the engine that is under the EGR curve. We actually have a CAN controlled pump that we are going to use for cooling our power electronics. That thing is an amazing pump. Thanks for your input.

Sounds like an ace project, there will be no problem with hotspots as the block and water act as a big heatsink and you will not be changing the flow directions. (and have no air in the system)

Car pumps are usually quite low flow rates/pressures so although a replacement might not fit, getting one that will work will be easy. Cant you put a CAN controlled motor onto the std pump spindle? or use one to drive the original pump from a belt and pulley?

As above, remember to remove the thermostat. Not sure how you would simulate the warm up of the engine if that had to start before had enough heat in it. You might have to circulate a very low flow to simulate the bypass and then the temperature sender will get an accurate signal.


I am sure the new Mini petrol engine uses an electric water pump.

Using the pump for the electronics and having a diverter would be better than fiddling with a pump on the engine aswell unless you want to keep the engine heat separate when it is running. Also I suppose the larger pump may be less efficient if you are only running it at 30% most of the time.

I thought about putting a motor on the pump spindle but I can't seem to get the pulley off. Thanks for all the information.

i have never heard of a hot spot issue with electric water pumps.

The cream of the crop of electric pumps are the davies-craig units with their controller that varies pump speed with engine temp
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/

I am using a Mezeire WP136s electric pump on my fiat 850 with excellent results.
http://www.meziere.com/ps-892-0-WP136S.aspx

Another option that has been popular for 20 years or so is to replace the factory water pump pulley with a cogged pulley and drive it with a toothed belt via an electric motor