since lowering the stilo im concerned the alignment/tracking etc. is out so anyone know where the best place would be to get this done and what kind of price i should be paying?
General four wheel alignment?
- Thread starter stilosporting
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General four wheel alignment?
Only cost me about £12 for which I got a computer printout showing the alignment of all 4 wheels.
The cost can vary a lot. I'd ring around if I was you
The cost can vary a lot. I'd ring around if I was you
As long as you make sure its laser alignment then doesnt really matter where you take it
Just got back from getting mine checked [because of the broken spring issues] and I was suprissed and my pocket was releaved that it was OK they also gave me 4 plastic valve caps to replace the stolen ones from yesterday Free of charge ATS euromaster :slayer:
they also gave me 4 plastic valve caps to replace the stolen ones from yesterday Free of charge ATS euromaster :slayer:
OP
OP
havent actually checked prices yet but was told it could be around £80 mark :chin: i wonder if im on about the right thing? would the alignment also sort out tracking,cambers and all stat stuff?
I thought you just wanted to check it ?
Camber is NOT adjustable anyway.
Camber is NOT adjustable anyway.
stilosporting said:
If its any use to you Frank ATS wanted £22.50 inc Vat for the Laser tracking
You are wise to get it checked peticualy as you have dopped the suspension that much people dont realise the inportance of getting this done when they have lowered their car.
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the problem with road cars is you cant adjust the chassis dynamics pretty much all together. Out of castor, camber, and toe only the front toe can be adjusted using front wheel tracking. thats about as useful as a waterproof teabag when compensating for bigger wheels and lower suspension. if you do get the tracking done, make sure it is set to slightly toe out. on front wheel drive cars a slight amount of toe out gives more stable tracking. if you really want to adjust the camber you'll need to adjust the suspension top mounts (fabricate adapters or redrill the turrets), moving them a half inch towards the outside of the car will usually bring things back into alignment even with a 60mm drop on 17s, but you'd be bloody lucky to find a road car where that much movement is possible on the suspension top mounts without something catching, such as the strut on the inner turret, plus the load bearing properites of the suspension top mount will be affected. basically its not really a viable option. which is a shame.
Good points Jug, and I agree with everything you said...
One more point, though. Not sure how well this would apply to the Stilo, but on my 128 and an Uno of mine, I have adjusted camber by filing out the top hole in the strut bracket where it bolts to the hub carrier (or the bottom hole, whichever is best in the circumstance).
E.g. the back of my 128 had over four degrees negative camber because it was lowered about 80mm (less than an inch of ground clearance!) By filing out the hole and moving the strut fully outwards, I managed to reduce the camber to 1.5 degrees each side - and the wheel alignment guy was stunned that the results were equal (I simply used washers as temporary spacers between strut and hub carrier, then tightened the bolts and removed the spacers.)
On my Uno, the reverse was true. At standard ride height, there was for some reason almost 1 degree positive camber after fitting new control arms (front wheels). Again, I slotted one of the two strut bracket bolts and pivotted the hub carrier inwards. 0.8 degree negative both sides.
If you're concerned about the bolt moving around (not a problem in my experience, including race use), you can use a couple of thick washers and weld these in place after making the adjustment.
Anyway, making the adjustment at the bottom of the strut, rather than the top, achieves more result with less movement (or less slotting of the holes) so I believe that it is the way to go...
Adjusting caster is even more exciting... easy on the older cars with anti-roll bars - basically you are trying for movement of the control arm fore-and-aft, which can sometimes be achieved to a limited extent with washers or bending...
Cheers,
-Alex
One more point, though. Not sure how well this would apply to the Stilo, but on my 128 and an Uno of mine, I have adjusted camber by filing out the top hole in the strut bracket where it bolts to the hub carrier (or the bottom hole, whichever is best in the circumstance).
E.g. the back of my 128 had over four degrees negative camber because it was lowered about 80mm (less than an inch of ground clearance!) By filing out the hole and moving the strut fully outwards, I managed to reduce the camber to 1.5 degrees each side - and the wheel alignment guy was stunned that the results were equal (I simply used washers as temporary spacers between strut and hub carrier, then tightened the bolts and removed the spacers.)
On my Uno, the reverse was true. At standard ride height, there was for some reason almost 1 degree positive camber after fitting new control arms (front wheels). Again, I slotted one of the two strut bracket bolts and pivotted the hub carrier inwards. 0.8 degree negative both sides.
If you're concerned about the bolt moving around (not a problem in my experience, including race use), you can use a couple of thick washers and weld these in place after making the adjustment.
Anyway, making the adjustment at the bottom of the strut, rather than the top, achieves more result with less movement (or less slotting of the holes) so I believe that it is the way to go...
Adjusting caster is even more exciting... easy on the older cars with anti-roll bars - basically you are trying for movement of the control arm fore-and-aft, which can sometimes be achieved to a limited extent with washers or bending...
Cheers,
-Alex
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jut1972
New member
Just bought two Pirellis for my stilo at 100 a pop, from D Salmon in Colchester I asked if this included tracking and was told yes.
It turns out they didnt do the tracking as they run out of time and have to do it next week. I can live with that but because the tracking was 2.5mm out (toed in) they say it should be adjusted and its a 26 quid charge to do this.
Am I being ripped off here? Having paid 200 quid for 2 tyres which I was told included the tracking, I expected the tracking to be checked AND CHANGED to be part of the deal? Am I being naive?
Once this is done, is it still worth having a 4 wheel alignment done? a local place (colchester) charges 40 ish to check and 15 to adjust.
It turns out they didnt do the tracking as they run out of time and have to do it next week. I can live with that but because the tracking was 2.5mm out (toed in) they say it should be adjusted and its a 26 quid charge to do this.
Am I being ripped off here? Having paid 200 quid for 2 tyres which I was told included the tracking, I expected the tracking to be checked AND CHANGED to be part of the deal? Am I being naive?
Once this is done, is it still worth having a 4 wheel alignment done? a local place (colchester) charges 40 ish to check and 15 to adjust.
jut1972 said:
40 ish to check and a further £15 to adjust Ohhhhh I just love these rip off merchants NOT
