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Technical Rear brakes!!!

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Technical Rear brakes!!!

K

KK1

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Hello, had a complete mare on friday night.
Driving to brum got of the M6 at sutton and hear a grinding noise comimg from one of the back brakes, pull into the drive way and the the drivers side rear brake pads have worn away scratching the disc a little.

So got some new pads sat morning, changed both rear sides out(god damn piston wind back!!) bled the system a couple of times and had a quick go- oh my god no brakes at all!!
So on the advice of a mechanic bled the system once more and pumped the brakes and great nice sharp brakes.

Then noticed that the brake lights are not going off unless I pull up the pedal from underneath!
I have been messing about all day trying to figure the problem but have now given up.
Checked underneath the peddle for any adjustment but could'nt move the little white sensor.

Could anyone give me any pointers/clues to what im doing wrong?
 
Yeah I think we ought to do a sticky on this one as everyone seems to get it at some time

Take off the over foot panel if you haven't already done so. The brake switch plunger is self adjusting and has gone too far in. With the brake pedal pushed down, grip the switch plunger with some long nose pliers and pull it further out. Then just release the brake pedal normally and it will set itself. Don't pull the brake pedal up, that's what caused the problem as that pushes the plunger too far in

What did you use to wind the rear calipers in? How long did the job take? Why did you need to bleed the brakes? How did air get in the system?
 
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Deckchair5 said:
Yeah I think we ought to do a sticky on this one as everyone seems to get it at some time

Take off the over foot panel if you haven't already done so. The brake switch plunger is self adjusting and has gone too far in. With the brake pedal pushed down, grip the switch plunger with some long nose pliers and pull it further out. Then just release the brake pedal normally and it will set itself. Don't pull the brake pedal up, that's what caused the problem as that pushes the plunger too far in

What did you use to wind the rear calipers in? How long did the job take? Why did you need to bleed the brakes? How did air get in the system?
Click to expand...

Thankyou very much for the reply, will try that in the morning.

I used a large pair if long nosed pliers to wind back the piston which took about 1 hour.
I bled the system because the brakes had felt a little lumpy recently, iar must have got in when I put the bleeding valve back on as I took it off(which was a mistake)
In total the job took 2 very hard hours.
 
Ah that explains the air in the system.:)

With the tailgate up you can check when your brake lights first start to operate

You did well to do them in 2 hours especially as there's no manual of any kind to help
 
KK1 said:
Thankyou very much for the reply, will try that in the morning.

I used a large pair if long nosed pliers to wind back the piston which took about 1 hour.
I bled the system because the brakes had felt a little lumpy recently, iar must have got in when I put the bleeding valve back on as I took it off(which was a mistake)
In total the job took 2 very hard hours.
Click to expand...

Blimey 2 hard hours indeed when i recently fitted my fr/rr groved and dimpled discs i hit on the idea of useing a large G clamp and a pair of plumbers pump grips you can apply down wards pressure with the clamp and easily turn the piston clockwise/anti clockwise depending which side ur doing with the grips just be carefull not to damage the rugger seal sorted(y)
 
Damn I did rip the rubber jacket slightly, will it become a major issue? Can I replace it or will I need a new caliper?

Thanks very much for your replys.
hopefully I can finally get back to london tomorrow once I have fiddled with the valve.
 
euan said:
2 hours isn't bad. Mine took 3 days as the piston refused to go back in, then the little hex screw for the cable bracket broke. :(
Click to expand...

U certanly had some fun then what stopped them winding back (n)
 
KK1 said:
Hello, had a complete mare on friday night.
Driving to brum got of the M6 at sutton and hear a grinding noise comimg from one of the back brakes, pull into the drive way and the the drivers side rear brake pads have worn away scratching the disc a little.

So got some new pads sat morning, changed both rear sides out(god damn piston wind back!!) bled the system a couple of times and had a quick go- oh my god no brakes at all!!
So on the advice of a mechanic bled the system once more and pumped the brakes and great nice sharp brakes.

Then noticed that the brake lights are not going off unless I pull up the pedal from underneath!
I have been messing about all day trying to figure the problem but have now given up.
Checked underneath the peddle for any adjustment but could'nt move the little white sensor.

Could anyone give me any pointers/clues to what im doing wrong?
Click to expand...

mone did stilo did exactly the same as yours but it was the rear passenger side caliper that got stuck and wore away the inner brake pad - got new pads for back and front fitted for £90
 
PNL said:
U certanly had some fun then what stopped them winding back (n)
Click to expand...

No idea, it just wasn't to be. One side wound back in with just a screw driver. The other one must simply have been knackered. It just jammed really, in the end I rammed it back with a sledge hammer. hehe (after the nut broke of course)
 
I'm having trouble changing the rear brakes on my wifes Stilo JTD. is it normal for the caliper winding in to take an age? I'm turning it clockwise (this is the drivers side) which is the right way (anti clockwise cause it to come out!!). I'm using a pair of long nose pliers.
 
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Hi you wind in clockwise on the rear off side and anti clockwise on the nearside it does help if you split the two halves of the caliper [at least i did] good luck oh and make sure the little cutouts either side of the piston are facing the correct way or the pad wont engage correctly (y)
 
When you say split the caliper, what do you mean exactly? Cheers for the tip about hte notches though :)(y)
 
to wind back the caliper pistons you will find it easier to unbolt the whole caliper from rear assembly the caliper will further brake/split down into 2 sections [dont remove it from rubber brake pipe]the back section houses the piston so you can put the front section one side until you reassemble OK if you need further help ask (y) make sure that all bolts are tightened correctly on reassembling the caliper
 
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Right, I ended up having to take the caliper off the car altogether, eventually after using my entire weight on top I got the b&^%*ed thing in. However the opposite side is giving me jip now. It's offthe car and I'm turning it anti clockwise but it's refusing to go in too :mad: but I guess its a case of perseverance. This is the first time I've done Fiat brakes. The ones on my ancient MR2 are loads easier to do!! lol!
 
Which side are you talking about N/S or O/S and are you are saying that you have disconnected the caliper from the brake hose ?

Are you useing a large G clamp to apply downwards preasure IE- screw down G clamp half a turn then turn piston until its retracted you need to apply the downwards preasure for the piston to retract TRY IT (y)
 
In the end thats what I did. and it all went in ok. I was just being a proper nancy!! But cheers and much appreciation for taking the time to offer some help. (y) (y)
 
Agree with PNL.

G clamp to apply pressure for pushing the piston back in, and at the same time turn piston - keeping turning piston and tightening G clamp. I used the 'key' for changing discs on my little angle grinder to turn piston, it was just the right size to engage with the cut out on the piston.
 
Stilo_ste: funny you should mention using an angle grinder "key" thats exactly what I used with my g clamps! :D
 
Hey guys glad i could help (y) Ive got another idea in my head for winding back these pistons :idea: I said about useing a large G clamp for down wards presure well how about this one as you know with the one side it winds down anti clockwise and you prob found it as i did a little fiddly to screw down the G clamp one way but turn the piston the opposite way so whats needed is a G clamp that screws downwards anti clockwise i do believe that on the continent these G clamps are available Ive tryed surfin but no luck may have to make one if I cant buy one if anyone of you can locate one please let me know (y) by for now :D
 
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