Hi again guys,

I was studying what flywheel and clutch pack to buy for my 2002 stilo jtd115 and as i was watching some fullpacks at the AUTODOC online store from VALEO i reached a dead end.

My VIN:ZFA19200000106018

They have two available FULLPACKS with the flywheel ref.55185864 that i pulled from Eper but both of them have a different clutch kit reference and also different clutch release bearing references.

The clutch kit reference i pulled from Eper (ref.55180163/55180276/55191330), for my surprise, is different from both of these packs. The clutch release bearing in Eper is shown with the reference SGR.21207 so i'm unable to compare it to the references from the packs.

Bellow are the two available packs in more detail:
VALEO 837005:
FULLPACK DMF
clutch release bearing: 804521
clutch kit: 826354
Flywheel: 836034

VALEO 837004:
clutch release bearing: 804524
clutch kit: 826353
Flywheel: 836034

All the references from both of these are apparently close to each other, only the last number being different, but still i cant reach beyond this point and it is killing me because i'm thinking how come i don't have any more information that allows me to choose one over the other.

If any of you could help me with this matter i would be very much appreciative.Other clutch suggestions are welcomed too, just take notice that i'm not from UK, i'm from Portugal.

Thank you in advance,
Rui Louro

SGR.21207 is not a part number, it means that the concentric clutch slave cylinder is shown in section SGR.21207 of ePer.
.

Hi Davren,

thank you very much for that info.

I took that ref. and apparently the VALEO 837005 has the release bearing that i'm looking for, with the Valeo reference 804521.

Appart now from the flywheel and the clutch release bearing only the clutch kit doesn't line up with the same reference that i have.

I starting to feel confident that the Valeo 837005 is the Fullpack i need to have but i still have that itch in the back of my head telling me that the clutch refs dont line up.

Hey everyone,

UPDATE! I searched around a bit longer and i managed to find the list of the parts that are included in the VALEO Kit with the part n. 837005.

When i searched each part individually i found that each of them match the OEM reference that i have for the part.

that list though was in front of my eyes from the beginning:bang:. AUTODOC apparently has a list towards the bottom of the page of the kit i was looking at, with all the parts the kit comes with. Each part in that list is linked to the AUTODOC page selling that part, and through that i managed to find that all those parts were the ones i needed to buy. So i'm going ahead and order that kit.

Thanks anyway guys, stay safe.

Rui Louro

That looks correct.

834005 is the 3-piece kit:
Release bearing: 804521
Clutch kit (2-piece): 826354

837005 is the 3-piece kit (834005) PLUS the flywheel 836034


This fits all 1.9 8v 115bhp Stilos from Chassis number 0061513 onwards.


The other option is 837004, which is the 3 part kit (834036):
Release bearing: 804524
Clutch kit (2-piece): 826353

Plus the flywheel (836034)



Ralf S.

Ralf S. said:

That looks correct.

834005 is the 3-piece kit:
Release bearing: 804521
Clutch kit (2-piece): 826354

837005 is the 3-piece kit (834005) PLUS the flywheel 836034


This fits all 1.9 8v 115bhp Stilos from Chassis number 0061513 onwards.


The other option is 837004, which is the 3 part kit (834036):
Release bearing: 804524
Clutch kit (2-piece): 826353

Plus the flywheel (836034)



Ralf S.

Click to expand...

Thank you Ralf.

Your insight in your reply is reassuring since i already ordered that same kit (837005)

My chassis number also matches that info so that's good.

All that's left for me to do is to reach to my local parts shop and order all the oil seals that go on the gearbox and driveshaft since the miles are really pilling up on the old ones and the gearbox doesn't get disconnected from the engine that often.

Thank you,

Rui Louro

The main one to get is the crankshaft seal... check out a Victor Reinz 81-90027-00 for your engine. You can only get to these while the flywheel is off, so now would be a good time to change it, if yours is leaking.

If these leak, there's usually a black oil drip at the joint between the crankcase and the clutch bell-housing. If you have an oil leak but it's clear and smells of bacon, then it's gearbox oil.. but usually it's black/engine oil (so it's the crankshaft seal).

The driveshaft seals can be done with the gearbox in the car, so if yours look okay (not weeping oil) then you don't need to change them.. but it's easier when the gearbox is off the car, I suppose.. and they're not too shocking expensive.

If you change them, shave a bit of metal off them before you fit them (use abrasive paper). They have a blue sealant around them and rely on an interference fit.. but they're a job to get seated properly if you don't have a proper tool.. so I tend to sand them down a bit, to make them seat better.. then use some silicone sealant to replace the blue sealant before you press them in. They're thin aluminium cups, so can get distorted... (so buy two or three in case/when one gets destroyed.. )


Ralf S.

Ralf S. said:

The main one to get is the crankshaft seal... check out a Victor Reinz 81-90027-00 for your engine. You can only get to these while the flywheel is off, so now would be a good time to change it, if yours is leaking.

If these leak, there's usually a black oil drip at the joint between the crankcase and the clutch bell-housing. If you have an oil leak but it's clear and smells of bacon, then it's gearbox oil.. but usually it's black/engine oil (so it's the crankshaft seal).

The driveshaft seals can be done with the gearbox in the car, so if yours look okay (not weeping oil) then you don't need to change them.. but it's easier when the gearbox is off the car, I suppose.. and they're not too shocking expensive.

If you change them, shave a bit of metal off them before you fit them (use abrasive paper). They have a blue sealant around them and rely on an interference fit.. but they're a job to get seated properly if you don't have a proper tool.. so I tend to sand them down a bit, to make them seat better.. then use some silicone sealant to replace the blue sealant before you press them in. They're thin aluminium cups, so can get distorted... (so buy two or three in case/when one gets destroyed.. )


Ralf S.

Click to expand...

Hi.

Information registered, thank you very much

About the driveshaft seals you are talking about. As i understand from what you said, the driveshaft seals fit inside thin aluminium cups, that are then pressed inside their housing on the gearbox, is that correct?

and that sealant is placed between the seal and the aluminium cup or between the cup and the gearbox seal housing? I got confused with that last info, sorry.

Best Regards,

Rui louro

ruispeed3d said:

Hi.

Information registered, thank you very much

About the driveshaft seals you are talking about. As i understand from what you said, the driveshaft seals fit inside thin aluminium cups, that are then pressed inside their housing on the gearbox, is that correct?

and that sealant is placed between the seal and the aluminium cup or between the cup and the gearbox seal housing? I got confused with that last info, sorry.

Best Regards,

Rui louro

Click to expand...

Yes.. the rubber/neoprene seal is bonded into an alloy case. You press the case into the recess on the gearbox housing, then to fit the driveshaft, you just push the driveshaft cup "shaft" through the seal.

Make sure you press the driveshaft home enough to make a click - the cup should be almost touching the gearbox housing. It has a snap ring which sometimes doesn't snap on.. it looks like it has but then the driveshaft can move about, causing a leak and potentially damaging the seal. I used a bit of wood across the cup, so I could use a mallet on it.

Anyway.. the alloy case of the seal has some blue jointing compound round the outside. If you rub down the alloy a bit, to help it seat, that removes the blue compound, so you just need to replace it. I put some silicone sealant into the gearbox casing recess rather than round the seal, to make it easier to handle.

Because the alloy is quite thin and the seal is an interference fit, the alloy can become slightly distorted during production or storage/handling.. it doesn't take much.. so mine needed a bit of re-profiling with emery paper to get it to sit on the gearbox recess square, so I could press it in. Your seal might sit better, depending on the brand and how gently they've been treated.


Ralf S.

Ralf S. said:

Yes.. the rubber/neoprene seal is bonded into an alloy case. You press the case into the recess on the gearbox housing, then to fit the driveshaft, you just push the driveshaft cup "shaft" through the seal.

Make sure you press the driveshaft home enough to make a click - the cup should be almost touching the gearbox housing. It has a snap ring which sometimes doesn't snap on.. it looks like it has but then the driveshaft can move about, causing a leak and potentially damaging the seal. I used a bit of wood across the cup, so I could use a mallet on it.

Anyway.. the alloy case of the seal has some blue jointing compound round the outside. If you rub down the alloy a bit, to help it seat, that removes the blue compound, so you just need to replace it. I put some silicone sealant into the gearbox casing recess rather than round the seal, to make it easier to handle.

Because the alloy is quite thin and the seal is an interference fit, the alloy can become slightly distorted during production or storage/handling.. it doesn't take much.. so mine needed a bit of re-profiling with emery paper to get it to sit on the gearbox recess square, so I could press it in. Your seal might sit better, depending on the brand and how gently they've been treated.


Ralf S.

Click to expand...

Oh now i got it, thanks!!

Curious enough, i just recently went through that driveshaft ordeal. I had to change the hole driveshaft from the left hand side of the vehicle, the result of bad care from my side for using the car for too long with a torn boot which made the driveshaft start to cause vibrations/shudder all over my car(cause:completely shot driveshaft spider bearings).

Since i was gonna replace the hole assembly i had to remove that cup from the gearbox, but as you mentioned i made sure i could hear the click as the new cup was being fitted before assembling anything else. It when in perfectly, just a tap with a good old rubber mallet and it clicked in place.

I was actually afraid the seal would start leaking with the new driveshaft, as i forgot to order a new one when i did the job, but fortunately as everything got assembled and the oil that dripped got replaced with new one, until today it has not leaked out.

One last thing i wanted to ask you, if i'm not asking too much of your time. What would be the appropriate toll to remove those alloy cases? My guess would be some sort of inner bearing puller, at least that's what i think would need the least amount of force to take it out.

Best Regards,

Rui Louro

I think I used a screwdriver and/or a pair of pliers. If you're careful you can use a piece of wood against the gearbox casing to act as the pivot for a lever (a long screwdriver). Once the seal starts to move you might be able to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it... but if I remember correctly;

a) There's not much space to use a lever/not many places you can place the wood
b) The screwdriver/lever doesn't have much metal to grip on to the seal casing, only neoprene, which is flexible
c) The alloy seal case distorts when you lever it, rather than the seal coming out
d) Once you have distorted the outer part of the casing, you still can't get a good grip of it using pliers (and if they come off the seal, they bash you in the face).
e) A small drift to crush the casing and which allows you to get a screwdriver down the side will probably be the step that finally gets it out..

If you're careful not to mark the seat inside the recess with your removal tool(s) then it'll be fine... Mine doesn't leak and that was a bit of a mission ^ as you might guess.



Ralf S.

Ralf S. said:

I think I used a screwdriver and/or a pair of pliers. If you're careful you can use a piece of wood against the gearbox casing to act as the pivot for a lever (a long screwdriver). Once the seal starts to move you might be able to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it... but if I remember correctly;

a) There's not much space to use a lever/not many places you can place the wood
b) The screwdriver/lever doesn't have much metal to grip on to the seal casing, only neoprene, which is flexible
c) The alloy seal case distorts when you lever it, rather than the seal coming out
d) Once you have distorted the outer part of the casing, you still can't get a good grip of it using pliers (and if they come off the seal, they bash you in the face).
e) A small drift to crush the casing and which allows you to get a screwdriver down the side will probably be the step that finally gets it out..

If you're careful not to mark the seat inside the recess with your removal tool(s) then it'll be fine... Mine doesn't leak and that was a bit of a mission ^ as you might guess.



Ralf S.

Click to expand...

Somehow i guessed the screwdriver would be a fitting tool for the job eheh

That looks very doable, just a bit of focus and patience. Whether the old one are bad or not, i'll go ahead and buy them, they don't seem that expensive. I just gotta always keep in mind the golden rule if i replace them: do not scratch the housing of the seal!!!

thank you again

Rui Louro