Technical Fiat Stilo 1.6 16V P1300 and not revving

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Technical Fiat Stilo 1.6 16V P1300 and not revving

Eman9

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Hello guys.

First time ever posting here. Anyways I already have been checking this forum for a good while.

I'm a proud owner of a Alfa Romeo 147 1.9 16V and a Fiat Stilo Multiwagon 1.6 16V.

Bough this car with a broken exhaust valve but was running, roughly. Already got the valves/head repair by a professional shop and it's on place.

After that, while the car was stopped the ECU decided to die... So I replaced the ecu IAW 5NF.T9 for a IAW 5NF.T1. Replaced the eeprom with the immobilizer from the old to the new ECU.

Now the real problem.

The car starts, idles fine around 1000rpm , but when I accelerate it only revs up to 1200 rpms.

With delphi I got prompt the error P1300 phonic wheel. Tried to use the delphi software to recalibrate it with no success , and checked around the forum and it's possible to calibrate it by revving the engine.... but my engine refuses to rev...

Besides that. On the dashboard got the overheating alert (already replaced the sensor and on delphi the temps are fine) and got the ABS error (forgot to record the ABS error, if any), maybe proxy alignment missing can be the problem?

Does anyone have a clew how to figure out what is wrong? Thanks all already =)
 
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Update.

The car is acting even more weird. Without doing nothing to the car, now allowed me to rev up to red line.
But the idle it's unstable and it stalls, and I'm not getting more engine error codes.
The odometer stopped flashing.

Could it be the engine ECU relearning?
 
see if this helps you
Fiat Stilo P1300 Code Meaning :
P 1 3 0 0
OBD-II Diagnostic Powertrain (P) Trouble Code For Engine Fuel And Air Metering Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent Cold Start Injector 1 Malfunction Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
Fiat Stilo Engine
When you check Fiat Stilo car engine light came on code P1300 the reason should be Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light). However manufacturer may have a different definition for the P1300 OBD-II Diagnostic Powertrain (P) Trouble Code. So you should chech it on our car models.

P1300 Fault Symptoms :
Check engine light comes on
Engine stalling or misfiring
Engine performance issues
Car not starting
If one of these reasons for P1300 code is occuring now you should check P1300 repair processes.
Now don't ask yourself; What should you do with P1300 code ?
The solution is here :
Fiat Stilo P1300 Possible Solution :
The crankshaft sensor signals the fuel injection computer or the ignition control when the cylinders are firing. This causes the ignition coil to provide a spark and the injector to inject fuel into each cylinder at the right time.If either sensor isn't working correctly, the car will run rough and the engine will be less efficient. In later car models, the car's computer can usually keep the vehicle running, but the engine warning light on the dashboard goes on to warn the driver.

P1300 OBD-II Diagnostic Powertrain (P) Trouble Code Description
P1300 OBD-II Trouble Code Boost Calibration Fault is one of the definitions for the P1300; however your vehicles manufacturer may have a different definition for the P1300 code. Please check below for your specific make. P1300 code.
Reason For P1300 Code
The reason of P1300 OBD-II Engine Trouble Code is Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent.
Parts or components should not be replaced with reference to only a P1300 DTC. The vehicle service manual should be consulted for more information on possible causes of the fault, along with required testing.
 
Thanks jockmr2.

Already did the proxialignment and fixed a few modules.

Today fired up the engine again.
I forgot to mention before the car looks like it's making a rich mixture, white smoke coming from the exhaust.

Did some checks on the values and something is wrong with the lambda sensors.



The 2 lambdas got +-0.6V difference. One says rich the other says lean hahah
 
If you can try and get original bosch lambda sensors, I have some new old stock fiat stilo parts, but no lambda sensors left, if your car has been sitting up for a long time, that white smoke could be just water, you would nearly have to run the car for about 20 minutes to dry out the exhaust system.
 
Removed all the spark-plugs and it's completely black carbon fouled, so the lambda sensor may be the one.

But because I'm a lucky guy know I got an extra code P1602 Voltage regulator. Just checked
the battery voltage 12.50V and alternator 13.9V. Still didn't dig much into that.

And as bonus the water-pump decided to spill out coolant everywhere. Looks like it's leaking from the back pipe that connects to the thermostat, between the exhaust manifold and the engine
 
YOUR new code P1602 most likely caused by your loss of coolant from leaking pipe, causing overheating, so hopefully get your lambda sensor, fix your leak, delete fault codes and cross fingers
 
Update. Removed the water pump. The gasket that connects the waterpump to the back pipe was completely destroyed, but someone else touched that before, and instead of replacing the gasket (oring) decided to put some silicone gasket, and left it with poor tightness.

Was searching for the water-pump gaskets kit but no luck, just the entire piece comes with it.

Besides that tried to remove the thermostat air drainer plug and the plug bit just snapped .... Now same thing, can't find that piece, just if I buy the new thermostat.

Anyways had to remove the alternator, so I gonna replace the voltage regulator and hope it gonna fix the code P1602.
 
What's part numbers off gaskets and plug, I can look tomorrow if you wanted to see if I got them, the only thing is might take up to 2 weeks to get to you.
 
Just refitted the water pump, thermostat and alternator.

Good news, the engine it's not leaking coolant anymore.

Placed a new lambda sensor but no fix.
Still get the error P1602.
According to multiecuscan it's my "new" ecu faulty?:

An internal ECU problem is indicated, possibly caused by the memory or the processor. Verify that the correct PROGRAM is installed and that it has not been modified improperly.
Check that the ECU has ripple free voltage and solid ground supplies.
Clear the code and ensure that it does not reappear.
If the code persists the memory or the ECU may be defective.
The reason for this fault is that ECU has received invalid signal from the sensor. The fault is present now. Take appropriate action to fix this sensor fault. Dashboard warning light was activated for this fault.


The old ecu was a IAW 5NF.T9 and the new one I replaced it's a IAW 5NF.T1, but for what i searched on this forum both are the same as replace plug and play.

I'm nuts already...
 
Update.

The ECU I bought it's broken as well... Swapped my ecu to a working car, and still displays the same fault codes. Looking for a new ecu atm....
 
Does anyone in this forum have a spare engine ECU to sell? And I need a ABS ECU aswell. Both are not working.
 
Update.

Got an test engine ECU. Which makes the car run, but prompts constantly oil pressure alerts and the idle it's random.

Anyways did IPO (portuguese MOT) and the car approved with no red flags. The fun fact the car died in the middle of the IPO/MOT. Clutch got stuck in the bottom, and the starting engine decided to die. Got on foot on my very first ride with the stilo...

Got a new slave cylinder for the clutch, problem solved.

The starter was a pain... dismantled it partially, all was looking good, checked the coils, the contacts etc, everything was looking good. Placed it again in the car and was still not working, got a new solenoid, still not working, got a new brushes set still not working. Replaced the starter engine like 5 times... Was about to give up from it, and dismantled it completely and found the problem. In the inside of the starter, a blocking plate that should be stuck on the top of the gears, got loose and moved up to the coils and magnets, as bonus was short circuiting everything. Bent the plate and placed it where it should. And it started to work as supposed finally.

Bough an ECU from ebay, waiting for it to finish the car.
 
To close this thread.

Finally did figure out what was wrong!

The engine timing belt was not in the proper timing... the crankshaft was in wrong position.

I'm quite unlucky guy, bought the proper tool to change the timing belt, and trusted a friend with dial indicator to check the piston TDC twice, and he managed to screw at it. Was about to remove the engine head and did a last engine timing check... and spotted what was wrong!

Now the car it's working like a charm,,, finally!
 
"I'm quite unlucky guy, bought the proper tool to change the timing belt, and trusted a friend with dial indicator to check the piston TDC twice, and he managed to screw at it."

What was the 'proper tool' ?, and why use a dial indicator ?
 
On the 1.6 16V you have 2 locking tools for the camshafts, and a tool to stick in the first cylinder in the spark plug hole to check TDC. My timing tool kit had everything, less the dial indicator, which mount on the top of that tool. Then you have to rotate the engine slowly, make some readings to guarantee the first piston it's at the very top position. Which in my case, wasn't.
 
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