General O2 sensor

Currently reading:
General O2 sensor

NebulaStilo

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
220
Points
50
Hi

So I have parts store that has a o2 sensir for my Fiat stilo 1.6 2006.

However the sensor they have is listed for the 1.4

Am I able to use it on my 1.6 because I did give oem number and that's what came up on their system?
Will it work or will it give problems?

Thanks guys
 
I can't look up ePer at the moment - it's jammed... but the sensors on eBay look potentially different 1.4 vs 1.6.

Having said that, the main differences between sensors is how they are wired to support the heater and return signal. The difference between one sensor and another could also just be a difference in the length of the cable, between the sender and the connector plug... so as a rule of thumb, if it fits then it will work.

If you can get a photo of the sensor (the connector plug end especially) and a measurement of how long the cable is, you'll be able to compare it to yours.

A longer cable than yours won't be an issue, as long as the connector plug is the same.


Ralf S.
 
Last edited:
I can't look up ePer at the moment - it's jammed... but the sensors on eBay look potentially different 1.4 vs 1.6.

Having said that, the main differences between sensors is how they are wired to support the heater and return signal. The difference between one sensor and another could also just be a difference in the length of the cable, between the sender and the connector plug... so as a rule of thumb, if it fits then it will work.

If you can get a photo of the sensor (the connector plug end especially) and a measurement of how long the cable is, you'll be able to compare it to yours.

A longer cable than yours won't be an issue, as long as the connector plug is the same.


Ralf S.

Thanks both for the reply.

I'll attach a pic of the sensor.

I don't know cable length though.

I gave them part number 46750243
Let me try another part number that I see one of you sent now.

So it shouldnt be a problem like performance wise in terms of AFR etc?

Thank you for the help.
 

Attachments

  • 1606797437847_image001.png
    1606797437847_image001.png
    35.9 KB · Views: 17
Judging by Pickwick's S4Parts links, the 1.4 sensor looks the same as the 1.6 post-cat one, but with a much shorter cable.. so it might physically fit at each end but is likely to be too short to connect both ends at the same time.

The 1.6 pre-cat one looks similar to the post-cat one but the connector is a different colour, which doesn't matter in itself .. but I guess it has a different pin layout or some other variation, so that it only fits in the correct place. I wouldn't hazard a guess what's different about it.. it may have a higher temperature capability or something, since it'll be closer to the motor.


Ralf S.
 
Judging by Pickwick's S4Parts links, the 1.4 sensor looks the same as the 1.6 post-cat one, but with a much shorter cable.. so it might physically fit at each end but is likely to be too short to connect both ends at the same time.

The 1.6 pre-cat one looks similar to the post-cat one but the connector is a different colour, which doesn't matter in itself .. but I guess it has a different pin layout or some other variation, so that it only fits in the correct place. I wouldn't hazard a guess what's different about it.. it may have a higher temperature capability or something, since it'll be closer to the motor.


Ralf S.

Hi Ralf.

So I bought the new sensor. The 1.4 one. It's actually universal as it says so on the box. It works and car starts and idles much better.

She still surges on acceleration so I disconnected both sensors again and she ran like a dream.
I read you must reset ECU so it can relearn or something along that lines. Is this true,if so,how do I do it and do I lose my immobilizer because I don't have key code and cannot afford one honestly? Here they charge for a code card.

She surges however it feels like she really wants to go. Like before she would surge but still feel lag. Now she surges but feels like she got alot more power. Must she still get used to info from sensor etc or what?

Thanks
 
That's what I thought about the sensor.. it could be they just made the cable long enough to fit on a number of cars, even if some of them don't need such a long cable. If you have too much cable, just make a loop and put a cable tie on it, not too tight, to stop it dangling.

You don't need to reset the ECU or do anything else. The sensor will just start working as soon as you plug it in and the ECU reacts to the signals it receives. There's no stored information in the ECU about the sensor or its readings.

If you can clear the ECU codes and then run the car for a while with the sensor(s) connected, it would be interesting to see what codes come up, if any.

It sounds like your ignition system and injection is fine, since the car runs okay when the sensors are disconnected.. so it's a case of finding out why it still surges when the sensors are plugged in.

No sensors would make the car run in a default, slightly rich mixture mode, so for sure it would run like a dream.. but you want it to lean off as much as possible, for fuel economy and for top end performance.. slightly rich is good for acceleration but not power.

So, the beast is leaning off a bit by the sound of it.. but not very gracefully. If you get any codes (but its important to flush the old codes out, so you know they're new codes) then that might give us a clue.

What brand is the sensor? I'm hoping it's not an unknown (or unbranded) one and is giving slightly incorrect readings.

And did you refit a standard Fiat airbox and filter, or does it still have a cone/or aftermarket panel filter? I can't remember.


Ralf S.
 
That's what I thought about the sensor.. it could be they just made the cable long enough to fit on a number of cars, even if some of them don't need such a long cable. If you have too much cable, just make a loop and put a cable tie on it, not too tight, to stop it dangling.

You don't need to reset the ECU or do anything else. The sensor will just start working as soon as you plug it in and the ECU reacts to the signals it receives. There's no stored information in the ECU about the sensor or its readings.

If you can clear the ECU codes and then run the car for a while with the sensor(s) connected, it would be interesting to see what codes come up, if any.

It sounds like your ignition system and injection is fine, since the car runs okay when the sensors are disconnected.. so it's a case of finding out why it still surges when the sensors are plugged in.

No sensors would make the car run in a default, slightly rich mixture mode, so for sure it would run like a dream.. but you want it to lean off as much as possible, for fuel economy and for top end performance.. slightly rich is good for acceleration but not power.

So, the beast is leaning off a bit by the sound of it.. but not very gracefully. If you get any codes (but its important to flush the old codes out, so you know they're new codes) then that might give us a clue.

What brand is the sensor? I'm hoping it's not an unknown (or unbranded) one and is giving slightly incorrect readings.

And did you refit a standard Fiat airbox and filter, or does it still have a cone/or aftermarket panel filter? I can't remember.


Ralf S.

Hi Ralf.
So yes I have standard air box with new filter in.
Its a euromann sensor. Ive got a crank sensor of that brand on and it works 100%.
I bought 4 spark plugs with the sensor. I removed the plugs and this is what i got(check pic) replaced with new plugs.

Now she has no surge.very very slightly in 1st low revs but she's good. Much much better acceleration AND she doesn't reek that much of fuel when I floor her.

Shes behaving like the beast I know.hahahaha.

I did also clean throttle again and breather pipes as well as MAP sensor and through some fuel system cleaner in. I unplugged ECU harness while busy so maybe that reset it.

Its solved now I hope. Lets not get too excited just yet. Let me drive her abit.

My code was for the downstream heater remember so I bought a upstream like we discussed(sensor could be lazy etc) the sensor that was upstream,I planted it downstream and Check engine light hasn't come back on! A better driving stilo and no dash lights ???

Thanks for all your help fellow Stilo'er ?appreciate it
 
That's what I thought about the sensor.. it could be they just made the cable long enough to fit on a number of cars, even if some of them don't need such a long cable. If you have too much cable, just make a loop and put a cable tie on it, not too tight, to stop it dangling.

You don't need to reset the ECU or do anything else. The sensor will just start working as soon as you plug it in and the ECU reacts to the signals it receives. There's no stored information in the ECU about the sensor or its readings.

If you can clear the ECU codes and then run the car for a while with the sensor(s) connected, it would be interesting to see what codes come up, if any.

It sounds like your ignition system and injection is fine, since the car runs okay when the sensors are disconnected.. so it's a case of finding out why it still surges when the sensors are plugged in.

No sensors would make the car run in a default, slightly rich mixture mode, so for sure it would run like a dream.. but you want it to lean off as much as possible, for fuel economy and for top end performance.. slightly rich is good for acceleration but not power.

So, the beast is leaning off a bit by the sound of it.. but not very gracefully. If you get any codes (but its important to flush the old codes out, so you know they're new codes) then that might give us a clue.

What brand is the sensor? I'm hoping it's not an unknown (or unbranded) one and is giving slightly incorrect readings.

And did you refit a standard Fiat airbox and filter, or does it still have a cone/or aftermarket panel filter? I can't remember.


Ralf S.

Here's the pic
 

Attachments

  • 20201202_145403.jpg
    20201202_145403.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 36
Here's the pic

Please tell me that you threw that sparkplug away and didn't screw it back in.
Cause it looks like your car is burning more oil than petrol.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/reading-spark-plugs-2
 
Last edited:
Please tell me that you threw that sparkplug away and didn't screw it back in.
Cause it looks like your car is burning more oil than petrol.
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/reading-spark-plugs-2

No I actually threw it in the washing machine just to get rid of that stuff. Ofcourse I threw it away.

Please tell me is that a sign of something or is it just old? Changed them last year.
Could it be from o2 sensor messing around with spark timing etc.
 
Here's the pic
It's a pretty mucky plug isn't it. Here's a "pick 'n mix" from my "dead" plugs box:

P1090513.JPG

I can't actually tell you from memory which of the 6 cars each individual plug came from but I can say that I change plugs every 2 years except for on the Astra which does a high mileage - sometimes 15,000 miles in a year so it gets plugs yearly. You can see how none of them has really excessive deposits built up and the colour, whilst not ideal on any of them, is not too bad except for the one on the right which came out of the Astra just before it's VVT pulleys were renewed. The car had failed it's MOT on emissions and you can see the plug is showing it's running rich. Even so there is no excessive deposit build up. I put new plugs and an air filter into it hoping that would be enough to get it through but the problem was that the valve timing was far enough out due to the worn VVT pulleys that she couldn't cope with the parameter variations on timing. Could be yours is burning a bit of oil as suggested which is causing that deposit build up?

If you are going to use plug colour as a diagnostic aid then you must check them after the engine has been out for a good run with the engine fully up to temperature and not after it's been "fiddling about" in traffic. Ideally a run down a bit of dual carriageway at constant speed for a few miles, then pull them and see what you've got. Not really practical though is it? Consequently I don't tend to let plug colours worry me too much - although I wouldn't want to see one much cleaner and whiter than the one third in from the left - but crusty carbon build up and/or melting of the electrodes would have me worrying.
 
It's a pretty mucky plug isn't it. Here's a "pick 'n mix" from my "dead" plugs box:

View attachment 214285

I can't actually tell you from memory which of the 6 cars each individual plug came from but I can say that I change plugs every 2 years except for on the Astra which does a high mileage - sometimes 15,000 miles in a year so it gets plugs yearly. You can see how none of them has really excessive deposits built up and the colour, whilst not ideal on any of them, is not too bad except for the one on the right which came out of the Astra just before it's VVT pulleys were renewed. The car had failed it's MOT on emissions and you can see the plug is showing it's running rich. Even so there is no excessive deposit build up. I put new plugs and an air filter into it hoping that would be enough to get it through but the problem was that the valve timing was far enough out due to the worn VVT pulleys that she couldn't cope with the parameter variations on timing. Could be yours is burning a bit of oil as suggested which is causing that deposit build up?

If you are going to use plug colour as a diagnostic aid then you must check them after the engine has been out for a good run with the engine fully up to temperature and not after it's been "fiddling about" in traffic. Ideally a run down a bit of dual carriageway at constant speed for a few miles, then pull them and see what you've got. Not really practical though is it? Consequently I don't tend to let plug colours worry me too much - although I wouldn't want to see one much cleaner and whiter than the one third in from the left - but crusty carbon build up and/or melting of the electrodes would have me worrying.

Hi.

Thanks for your reply.
When i changed the plugs it was immediately after coming from the shops. I drove her fairly fast and she was on our highway.

After replacing them she ran like a dream. I went to fetch my partner at work at 10pm and when I started her again and drove off,she had that surge on acceleration back. I suspect the coil pack is shorting because at the bottom of one of the coils it's fairly loose.

That might wait until next month with a temp fix? I've spend way over my budget just on this car for this month with new sensors etc.

Fiat love problems BUT I will bite anyone's head off for talking bad about my beast????she's taken me places I tell you,she's taken me far out of the city not a single problem
 
I haven't seen a plug that looks like yours for years (though I'm an auto mechanic) by the looks of it your motor is burning oil or your sparkplug is waaay too cold for your application.
You can use plugs for engine diagnostics like Puggit mentioned but you need a new plugs for it and you can only do one pull before taking them out to read, you can also see timing marks and fueling status on the spark plugs.
 

Attachments

  • 121181082_10159095991774314_951254977459070630_n.jpg
    121181082_10159095991774314_951254977459070630_n.jpg
    44.9 KB · Views: 34
I haven't seen a plug that looks like yours for years (though I'm an auto mechanic) by the looks of it your motor is burning oil or your sparkplug is waaay too cold for your application.
You can use plugs for engine diagnostics like Puggit mentioned but you need a new plugs for it and you can only do one pull before taking them out to read, you can also see timing marks and fueling status on the spark plugs.
Hey flying dutch, I do like that graphic of the plug colours. Previously I've only ever seen individual pics of plug tips - so often a sequence of pictures to get the message across. Thanks for that. Don't know about you but I think you can get a bit obsessed with the visual appearance of the business end of plugs? The conditions under which many engines run these days - stop/start city running in particular - make a meaningful conclusion difficult.
 
Thanks all for the replies.

My surging went away and all was great until last night when surging and some misfire showed up again.

No CEL. I replaced o2 sensors. One coil pack feels loose on the bottom end that goes on the top of the plug.

When I unplug o2 sensors surging goes away. With new or old sensors.

It was nice having my beasts power back for abit???
 
Hey flying dutch, I do like that graphic of the plug colours. Previously I've only ever seen individual pics of plug tips - so often a sequence of pictures to get the message across. Thanks for that. Don't know about you but I think you can get a bit obsessed with the visual appearance of the business end of plugs? The conditions under which many engines run these days - stop/start city running in particular - make a meaningful conclusion difficult.

Well point taken that not all cars runs the same especially when considering direct injection vs port injection vs carb, depending on application you have to adjust expectations.
Talking about OP's car which has pretty much run off the mill engine with I hope healthy compression and running unleaded fuel one glance on the picture tells you it(engine) shouldn't be running. There's no need to loose your head reading spark plugs but it's the best way to see what's going on in your engine without huge expense.
 
So I cleaned my throttle body with carb cleaner. I read now only that its not suggested,could it be that it bind to electric components thats why I'm getting that surge again or is it my coil pack?

I got a few tps codes. One of which was low voltage.
 
Back
Top