Technical Please [emoji17] Fiat stilo 1.6 16V does not start

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Technical Please [emoji17] Fiat stilo 1.6 16V does not start

borhan0089

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Hello everyone,
I hope may someone can help with this problem.

My Fiat Stilo 1.6 16V 2002 does start, I could find out what is going on.
I diagnosed it with MES, I get 3 codes as you see in the photo 1

P0105 Intake pressure sensor
P0530 A.C compressor pressure high
P1121 Throttle position (Track 1)
I can't clear these 3 DTCs, the are always red and can't be removed.
After an attempt to start the car, the starter and engine rotate but doesn't start. Then I get new codes
Cylinder 1,2,3,4 injectors, Phase sensor, etc. as the photo. these codes can be cleared directly after the attempt, but that 3 codes are always on as I said.
I changed the Ecu with virgin one, the fuse box and the throttle body but really there is no an changing. Everything is same.
[emoji17][emoji17][emoji17][emoji17][emoji17][emoji17][emoji17]

Can anyone help me, I do really need my car to go to work.
I am waiting your help. [emoji4]
IMG_20200811_181733.jpegIMG_20200811_181933.jpeg
 
Hi
Hope this might give some new fault finding ideas.
I would start with:
• is the timing correct
• fuel in cylinder
• spark on spark plug when removed and grounded.

On the following errors you have only 2 might be the culprit so I suggest looking at youtube videos how to test the pressure sensor and throttle position before testing to have an idea.

P0105 Intake pressure sensor
• remove if easy accessible, measure on signal wire while plugged in, should read somewhere between 1 - 2 volts, if you suck the volts should drop and blow volts should go higher than 2, the range is 0-5 v normally for sensors.
If it reacts then it should be fine.

P0530 A.C compressor pressure high
• unless the ac pump is seized and by some miracle the belt is preventing the crank to turn it can't be the ac.

P1121 Throttle position (Track 1)
• same test as with pressure sensor, 0 - 5 volt test on throttle disc position.
Also think this might not be the fault. Since there are 2.
Maybe verify that both pressure and position sensors has 5v on supply and 0v on common.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi
Hope this might give some new fault finding ideas.
I would start with:
• is the timing correct
• fuel in cylinder
• spark on spark plug when removed and grounded.

On the following errors you have only 2 might be the culprit so I suggest looking at youtube videos how to test the pressure sensor and throttle position before testing to have an idea.

P0105 Intake pressure sensor
• remove if easy accessible, measure on signal wire while plugged in, should read somewhere between 1 - 2 volts, if you suck the volts should drop and blow volts should go higher than 2, the range is 0-5 v normally for sensors.
If it reacts then it should be fine.

P0530 A.C compressor pressure high
• unless the ac pump is seized and by some miracle the belt is preventing the crank to turn it can't be the ac.

P1121 Throttle position (Track 1)
• same test as with pressure sensor, 0 - 5 volt test on throttle disc position.
Also think this might not be the fault. Since there are 2.
Maybe verify that both pressure and position sensors has 5v on supply and 0v on common.

Hope this helps.


Hello friend,

Timing belt is correct and there is fuel in cylinder, today may I will test the spark on spark plug.

Regards,
 
Hi :)

It may be a bad electrical circuit..

High aircon pressure seems nonsense..
unless it was incorrectly filled ( while parked..) how can this be a problem now.


I would check earth connections..
Try a jumper cable too ;)

And SEARCH those 3 codes on here

Its quite possible somebody has found the fix


Im afraid I have not worked on a stilo (none sold mear me..)

Good luck.. do let us know what you find

Charlie
 
Last edited:
Hmmm... a lot of "digital" going on. Try "analogue";

1) When you crank it, do you get sparks at the spark plugs?
Connect one of the HT leads to a spare spark plug, and holding it by the lead/wearing rubber gloves/don't touch anything metal etc., place the electrode firmly against the metal rocker cover and get someone to turn the engine over for a few seconds.

If you see a spark, it's great. If you don't see a spark, then the car isn't starting because it doesn't have a spark.

2) When you crank it, do you get a signal at the injectors?
Connect one of the injector leads to a multimeter, or one of those glass bottomed bulbs with the folded over metal tangs. When you turn the engine over, the meter/bulb will flash.

If it's dead, then the car isn't starting because it doesn't have fuel.


If you have no sparks, then check the power to the coil pack. If you have power there but no juice at the plugs, then it's probably a TDC sensor problem (you will hopefully find that the fuel injector test above fails too). The car might start when it's cold … but cut out/not start when it's hot.

If you have sparks but no fuel, then check the fuel pump is alive and priming the fuel rail. Most likely candidate is the emergency fuel shut off (may be a button under the passenger seat) so make sure it's pressed in/armed.

Otherwise you may have a weak or failed fuel pump... including dirty relays/blown fuse etc.



Ralf S.
 
Last edited:
Thank you my friend,

it is ok now and it works, camshaft sensor had been replaced.
But now after engine has started, the rpm is not ok and I got the code P0172 System rich.
Does anyone know what it is.

Best regards,
Hmmm... a lot of "digital" going on. Try "analogue";

1) When you crank it, do you get sparks at the spark plugs?
Connect one of the HT leads to a spare spark plug, and holding it by the lead/wearing rubber gloves/don't touch anything metal etc., place the electrode firmly against the metal rocker cover and get someone to turn the engine over for a few seconds.

If you see a spark, it's great. If you don't see a spark, then the car isn't starting because it doesn't have a spark.

2) When you crank it, do you get a signal at the injectors?
Connect one of the injector leads to a multimeter, or one of those glass bottomed bulbs with the folded over metal tangs. When you turn the engine over, the meter/bulb will flash.

If it's dead, then the car isn't starting because it doesn't have fuel.


If you have no sparks, then check the power to the coil pack. If you have power there but no juice at the plugs, then it's probably a TDC sensor problem (you will hopefully find that the fuel injector test above fails too). The car might start when it's cold … but cut out/not start when it's hot.

If you have sparks but no fuel, then check the fuel pump is alive and priming the fuel rail. Most likely candidate is the emergency fuel shut off (may be a button under the passenger seat) so make sure it's pressed in/armed.

Otherwise you may have a weak or failed fuel pump... including dirty relays/blown fuse etc.



Ralf S.
IMG_20200818_181551.jpeg
 
It could be the idle control valve/throttle position sensor or more likely it's a lamda fault.

Take it for a drive until it's warmed up. Then from a standing start (junction or traffic lights) accelerate very slowly in the same gear (2nd is good) without changing up.

Listen to what the engine is doing as the revs pass from 1500rpm to 3000rpm. If you can feel a hesitation or glitch around 1800rpm then that's a lambda problem.

What happens is the lambda heater turns off when the revs pass 1800~2000 (since the extra exhaust gas will keep the lambda hot). Without the heater, the lambda may not be able to give the correct reading (if it's knackered) and that upsets the fueling.

Without a decent lambda signal, the car will default to slightly rich.


If the lambda checks out then the other sources of rich running are the MAP/MAF (do you still have the "P0105 Intake pressure sensor" error?) or worn injectors.


Ralf S.
 
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