Technical Crankshaft pulley marks

Currently reading:
Technical Crankshaft pulley marks

Latest update on this one... Took the beast for a test drive... and the engine wasn't sounding too great, so..... while I don't need the car much... I decided to take the cam-belt off again for another look at it.

First thing I dealt with was the TDC sensor countersunk screw. I had recently bought myself a pukka chisel from Wickes @ £7... since it saves my screwdrivers when I want to apply some "persuasion" to stuff.. :D

Anyways, it's sharp and it's "hard"... so I used it on the outer edge of the screw to put a notch into it. The chisel ate into the screw head fairly easily... and at the same time, the force of me tapping it freed up the screw. I used the chisel to slowly rotate it past the point where the corroded threads were out of the hole... and then took it out by hand. Result!

A new hex-head screw was too tall to clear the camshaft sprocket but a regular M6 x 12mm hex head bolt *just* fits under it. So that's done. TDC sensor will be easy to remove next time.

Next off, the camshaft sprocket. I noticed that with the crankshaft locked, the marker on the sprocket was *almost" aligned with the pointer on the head. It's never aligned, nor "almost" aligned.. it's always had the appearance of being one tooth out... :D

I was initially pleased that it's all lining up at long last... even though it ran fine before, when it wasn't... and now it's a bit rough.

I removed the sprocket so I could re-seat it.. and I took notice this time, that the sprocket has a lot of "slop" on the camshaft. I think in the past I always just replaced the sprocket so that it appeared one tooth out (which works) but last time out I rotated it as far as I could to get it closer to the marks lining up.

It turns out that the key on the back of the sprocket seems to have been mashed up at one time in the past.. probably put onto the cam in the wrong place (maybe by someone trying to line up the marks) and then tightened up against its will, till the cast "key" fractured. Without square shoulders, the damaged key allows the sprocket to rotate slightly on the cam, until it's tightened up.

In the past I've always lined it up by eye (setting the sprocket mark "one tooth out", how it came off), so never really given it any thought, even though I realise I did notice that it was "sloppy" and that maybe it should be more precise.

So... the next job is to re-set the sprocket by eye "one tooth out".. which is probably not really one tooth out... (it could be the pointer isn't straight) or maybe it is but the car runs great like that, so I'm not going to insist... :D

But it may be an idea to get a new sprocket with an undamaged key. The sprocket can't rotate, since there's enough key left to locate it into the camshaft slot.. but it can move backwards and forwards, once located.. just a few millimeters but that's probably what's making it run a bit ginger at the moment.

Does anyone knoe where I might find a cheap/good sprocket? Otherwise I can persvere/repair mine, so that it's more how Fiat intended.


Ralf S.
 
Latest update on this one... Took the beast for a test drive... and the engine wasn't sounding too great, so..... while I don't need the car much... I decided to take the cam-belt off again for another look at it.

First thing I dealt with was the TDC sensor countersunk screw. I had recently bought myself a pukka chisel from Wickes @ £7... since it saves my screwdrivers when I want to apply some "persuasion" to stuff.. :D

Anyways, it's sharp and it's "hard"... so I used it on the outer edge of the screw to put a notch into it. The chisel ate into the screw head fairly easily... and at the same time, the force of me tapping it freed up the screw. I used the chisel to slowly rotate it past the point where the corroded threads were out of the hole... and then took it out by hand. Result!

A new hex-head screw was too tall to clear the camshaft sprocket but a regular M6 x 12mm hex head bolt *just* fits under it. So that's done. TDC sensor will be easy to remove next time.

Next off, the camshaft sprocket. I noticed that with the crankshaft locked, the marker on the sprocket was *almost" aligned with the pointer on the head. It's never aligned, nor "almost" aligned.. it's always had the appearance of being one tooth out... :D

I was initially pleased that it's all lining up at long last... even though it ran fine before, when it wasn't... and now it's a bit rough.

I removed the sprocket so I could re-seat it.. and I took notice this time, that the sprocket has a lot of "slop" on the camshaft. I think in the past I always just replaced the sprocket so that it appeared one tooth out (which works) but last time out I rotated it as far as I could to get it closer to the marks lining up.

It turns out that the key on the back of the sprocket seems to have been mashed up at one time in the past.. probably put onto the cam in the wrong place (maybe by someone trying to line up the marks) and then tightened up against its will, till the cast "key" fractured. Without square shoulders, the damaged key allows the sprocket to rotate slightly on the cam, until it's tightened up.

In the past I've always lined it up by eye (setting the sprocket mark "one tooth out", how it came off), so never really given it any thought, even though I realise I did notice that it was "sloppy" and that maybe it should be more precise.

So... the next job is to re-set the sprocket by eye "one tooth out".. which is probably not really one tooth out... (it could be the pointer isn't straight) or maybe it is but the car runs great like that, so I'm not going to insist... :D

But it may be an idea to get a new sprocket with an undamaged key. The sprocket can't rotate, since there's enough key left to locate it into the camshaft slot.. but it can move backwards and forwards, once located.. just a few millimeters but that's probably what's making it run a bit ginger at the moment.

Does anyone knoe where I might find a cheap/good sprocket? Otherwise I can persvere/repair mine, so that it's more how Fiat intended.


Ralf S.
Ah another one with a sheared key!

1.9 jtd type they are readily available on line new about £30 from memory.

Possibly cheaper if you buy one for a Vauxhall version of engine .
 
Last edited:
Latest update on this one... Took the beast for a test drive... and the engine wasn't sounding too great, so..... .

It turns out that the key on the back of the sprocket seems to have been mashed up at one time in the past.. probably put onto the cam in the wrong place (maybe by someone trying to line up the marks) and then tightened up against its will, till the cast "key" fractured. Without square shoulders, the damaged key allows the sprocket to rotate slightly on the cam, until it's tightened up.

Ralf S.


Of more concern is that not only have you found a mutilated Torx screw, you've also found the mutilated Sprocket :eek:.

One wonders what other trauma that some ham fisted cowboy has done that you'll find next :cool::(

.
 
Ah another one with a sheared key!

1.9 jtd type they are readily available on line new about £30 from memory.

Possibly cheaper if you buy one for a Vauxhall version of engine .
Wow they have gone up in price £49
 
Counter hold sprocket when you tighten retaining bolt

My locking toolkit has a part which bolts to an M10 bolt between the two pulleys - it has a notch on it which fits into the camshaft sprocket teeth and stops it rotating while you tighten the sprocket bolt up.

Usually I refit the sprocket with the tool in place, so it ends up in exactly the same "slightly misaligned" position. This time round, I removed it so I could check whether the pulley was fouling the new hex bolt I fitted to replace the old countersunk screw.. I rotated the sprocket through its free play to listen to whether or not it was scraping on the bolt head, since it's out of sight behind the pulley otherwise.

Then while I was doing that, I realised that at the limit of its free-play movement, the pulley mark seemed to almost exactly line up with the pointer on the cam-cover (as close as I've ever seen it) so I left it rotated as far as it would go and tightened it up in that position. So the cam timing is probably now out by the equivalent of 1/2 to 3/4 tooth.

If the sprocket key was intact, it would fit with the pointer "one tooth out" as it's always been and which works fine. I need to not get too hung up on making the marks line up... :D


Ralf S.
 
Odd.

The cam sensor measures the cam position from the cam sprocket.
Maybe crankshaft camshaft position correlation is not a big deal to the engine ecu, otherwise it would flag your 1 tooth out setting.

I gave up waiting for the new cam sprocket I had ordered and got one from scrap yard think it was £5.

Anywho If it runs fine and you happy it's another win :)
 
Back
Top