Hi all , I’ve had a temp gauge pinned on high for ages ( which I’ve lived with ) but yesterday, I filled up with petrol , had approx 3/4 of a tank, then a few miles later noticed my fuel gauge pinned full , Bugger ! , this I can’t live with . Can I just buy a set of clocks off eBay and plug and play ???
General Stilo instrument cluster/binacle
- Thread starter cliffy71
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General Stilo instrument cluster/binacle
I suppose the good news is that with 2 gauges affected it does look like an Instrument Cluster problem rather than individual sender/gauge problems, which then focuses attention to just the Cluster itself 
.
However, that's about my limit of diagnostic abilities in this area, so very happy to hand over to someone who knows more.
. However, that's about my limit of diagnostic abilities in this area, so very happy to hand over to someone who knows more
.
Talk to yellowstilo on these forums, he fixes them so should be able to tell you chapter & verse on any problems...
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yes i repaired lots of Stilo instrument clusters, if you don't mind sending your cluster to the Netherlands you will have it returned fully functional in no time !
Just send me a PM for more info....
Just send me a PM for more info....
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just put in a second hand unit? You can buy them pretty cheap on eBay etc. They are plug and play, just need to buy one which is for diesel/petrol cars (they rev differently) and need to do a proxy alignment to set the mileage.
Also be warned that you can only add to the mileage on the unit NOT subtract. But apart from that everything's good.
If you fit a different clocks, it will blink the mileage (of the clocks) at you but otherwise it works fine.
You can proxy align it to stop the flashing odometer but you don't have to... it still records mileage correctly, although that mileage is going to be the wrong mileage for your car.
Ralf S.
You can proxy align it to stop the flashing odometer but you don't have to... it still records mileage correctly, although that mileage is going to be the wrong mileage for your car.
Ralf S.
The problem with clocks from eBay is that they'll have faulty stepper motors.. but anyway, as long as the fuel gauge and the rev counter work, you'll be okay for a while.
The steering column shroud needs to come off. Remove the lower piece from the top piece (3? small allen screws) and then wrestle that piece out of the car by manouevering it clear of the lever that adjusts the steering wheel height. Technically it can stay there.. but it's in the way and it'll get on your tits.
The top part of the steering column shroud is attached via some screws to the column.. and these will now be accessible. There are two immediately behind the wheel (symmetrical on each side) and one further back that's randomly placed. The plastic tabs are fragile, so resist the urge to lift the shroud for a better look.
Then you need to remove the fillet from the top of the clocks. It's a skinny piece of plastic that fits into the gap between the top of the clocks and the dashboard. It has two screws (one each side) and then tabs that fit it into place. From memory you need to somehow lift the tabs up (they locates on notches on the clocks) but without levering against the edge of the glass (or you'll crack it).
With the fillet out and the shroud off, you may see two more screws on tabs at the bottom of the clocks (one near each corner). They're the easiest ones to remove.
Now you have to lift the clocks out, clear the various tabs and notches holding them in place and pull them loose. If you get a flat bladed knife it's easier to feel your way around to where the various tabs are. I think you need to press down at the top, while easing the clocks out, but without snapping the bottom tabs as you rotate the clocks outwards. I've broken them all ...
When the clocks are out.. the leads are thankfully very long, so plenty of space to remove the connector blocks. They only fit one way, so no need to mark them or note their positions etc.
Then lower the wheel and feed the clocks end-first throught the gap between the wheel and the dashboard (easier said than done).
It's a proper Mo-Fo since you will likely break some tab, or clip etc.. but not actually technically difficult.
Ralf S.
but anyway, as long as the fuel gauge and the rev counter work, you'll be okay for a while.The steering column shroud needs to come off. Remove the lower piece from the top piece (3? small allen screws) and then wrestle that piece out of the car by manouevering it clear of the lever that adjusts the steering wheel height. Technically it can stay there.. but it's in the way and it'll get on your tits.
The top part of the steering column shroud is attached via some screws to the column.. and these will now be accessible. There are two immediately behind the wheel (symmetrical on each side) and one further back that's randomly placed. The plastic tabs are fragile, so resist the urge to lift the shroud for a better look.
Then you need to remove the fillet from the top of the clocks. It's a skinny piece of plastic that fits into the gap between the top of the clocks and the dashboard. It has two screws (one each side) and then tabs that fit it into place. From memory you need to somehow lift the tabs up (they locates on notches on the clocks) but without levering against the edge of the glass (or you'll crack it).
With the fillet out and the shroud off, you may see two more screws on tabs at the bottom of the clocks (one near each corner). They're the easiest ones to remove.
Now you have to lift the clocks out, clear the various tabs and notches holding them in place and pull them loose. If you get a flat bladed knife it's easier to feel your way around to where the various tabs are. I think you need to press down at the top, while easing the clocks out, but without snapping the bottom tabs as you rotate the clocks outwards. I've broken them all ...
When the clocks are out.. the leads are thankfully very long, so plenty of space to remove the connector blocks. They only fit one way, so no need to mark them or note their positions etc.
Then lower the wheel and feed the clocks end-first throught the gap between the wheel and the dashboard (easier said than done).
It's a proper Mo-Fo since you will likely break some tab, or clip etc.. but not actually technically difficult.
Ralf S.
Yes.. Range to Empty changes as the Average Consumption changes, so it can increase even as you're using more fuel.
My old beast is pretty accurate ... although it tends to reach a point (around 150 miles to empty) where it suddenly realises it doesn't have much fuel left and comes over all pessimistic... and drops quite suddenly to about 80.
So you need to keep an eye on it... don't just assume that because it was 150 yesterday, it must be 145 today.
Anyhow.. if you subtract 50 from whatever miles it says and treat "50" as zero, then you won't run out of gas.
Ralf S.
My old beast is pretty accurate ... although it tends to reach a point (around 150 miles to empty) where it suddenly realises it doesn't have much fuel left and comes over all pessimistic... and drops quite suddenly to about 80.
So you need to keep an eye on it... don't just assume that because it was 150 yesterday, it must be 145 today.
Anyhow.. if you subtract 50 from whatever miles it says and treat "50" as zero, then you won't run out of gas.
Ralf S.
Hi all , I fitted my second hand clocks yesterday ( pig of a job ) and my total miles is flashing as previously stated above , I’m obviously gonna cover a few hundred miles before I re-fit my repaired original clocks , what will happen ? The car has done more miles but the clocks haven’t ??? Will them miles be added on or will my original clock flash as well ?
Thanks for reading , stay safe everyone
Thanks for reading , stay safe everyone
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You need to do Proxi aligement with diagnostic cable...
Your original clocks will show the original mileage when they were removed - there's no synchronisation with the ECU.
If you proxy align your new clocks then you'll have to proxy align your original clocks when you return them.
If you don't proxy align your new clocks, then you can re-fit your old clocks and they won't flash, since they're presently aligned and that won't change unless you align some other clocks in the meantime.
Ralf S.
If you proxy align your new clocks then you'll have to proxy align your original clocks when you return them.
If you don't proxy align your new clocks, then you can re-fit your old clocks and they won't flash, since they're presently aligned and that won't change unless you align some other clocks in the meantime.
Ralf S.
