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Old 13-08-2019   #1
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Sporting 150, buyer's guide

Hi all,

had my 1.6 Active for 3 years now, and am being enticed by the Sporting 150 Multi-jet.
What are the pitfalls? Any specific tests to check expensive components during a test drive etc?
What price sounds reasonable for a 90k '07 in good nick?

cheers
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Old 14-08-2019   #2
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

I've not heard anything too severe about the 150.

Most of it will be familiar to you already (rear bushes, slightly eccentric electics, suspension clonks, rear calipers etc.) but otherwise it's just the same as most 10-12 year old car, i.e. practically anything and everything could go wrong with it.

The main things that will be new, if you come over to the Dark Side, will be all the extra plumbing you get around the turbo, and the emissions control equipment which your clean-living 1.6 doesn't have.

The EGR and (not sure if the 150 has one) DPF will need to be in good nick. The EGR can give a fault if it's a bit sooted up.. but it shouldn't soot up under normal proper "diesel-friendly" usage and if it's just a bit sticky but "okay" you can always clean it to get it back.

The DPF can clog up if not offered the same hot-running/get up to temperature usage and some people remove them to save themselves the aggro'... but if it's supposed to have one, make sure you have one, otherwise the MOT man will give you the wrong colour ticket.

If the mileage is around 120k, check when the clutch was last changed. Around 125k you might need a new one and/or Slave cylinder. I think the Slave lives inside the gearbox housing, so don't under-estimate what a complete MoFo that is, when it packs up.

Have a look at the front springs and dampers, condition of the front brakes and check that there's no driveline shunt.. since the diesel motore is quite heavy and a bit torquey, so the front suspension, brakes and drive-train all have to work for a living.

Usual other stuff.. there's a flexy section in the exhaust that (same as any other motore) can split.. and you want to be sure the cam-belt and water pump have been changed. I think the interval is something like 60,000 or 72,000 miles... so you could be looking at a car where it was not done, or could be coming up to a new one, depending on the mileage.

Cam-belt and tensioner are otherwise low-stressed and don't pack up right on the change interval, so no worries to drive it a while.. but if the owner didn't change it when they should, then that's usually not a good sign.

Similarly you now have a fuel filter in the engine bay which looks like a tin of Coors... That should be changed every 12k.. but as above, the car doesn't care too much if you don't... just it's a good sign of some previous care.

Otherwise it's a proper hard-core piece of equipment without any particular vices. Find a good one and not spend any more on it, or buy one that's a bit cheaper and spend half the value of the car tweaking it.. depends what you like doing on your days off.


Ralf S.
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Last edited by Ralf S.; 14-08-2019 at 08:04.
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Old 15-08-2019   #3
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

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Then:Yellow Stilo 1.6 16V 3-door - not quite standard
Now: Red Stilo Abarth Schumacher GP Prodrive - modded for function over form...
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #4
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

Quote Originally Posted by Ralf S. View Post
....
The main things that will be new, if you come over to the Dark Side, will be all the extra plumbing you get around the turbo, and the emissions control equipment which your clean-living 1.6 doesn't have.

The EGR and (not sure if the 150 has one) DPF will need to be in good nick. The EGR can give a fault if it's a bit sooted up.. but it shouldn't soot up under normal proper "diesel-friendly" usage and if it's just a bit sticky but "okay" you can always clean it to get it back.

The DPF can clog up if not offered the same hot-running/get up to temperature usage and some people remove them to save themselves the aggro'... but if it's supposed to have one, make sure you have one, otherwise the MOT man will give you the wrong colour ticket.

...


Ralf S.
Yep, it's mainly this stuff i'm unfamiliar with. Any "walk-away" tests? The one I was looking at has 3 month warranty, but would be a pain as the dealer is 2 hours away. I don't know what to listen or feel for for failing turbo for example.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #5
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

mileage is 87k, looks nice bodywork, stock AFAIK

what do you reckon is a reasonable price with a 3 month warranty?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #6
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

If the turbo is a bit wonky, the car will smoke a lot and it won't boost very well.

If it's a trade seller (or even a private seller) just go for a test drive. If you can find a clear stretch of road, accelerate the beast moderately slowly in a lower gear until you get to about 3000rpm.. then give it a prod of a bit more gas to see if it picks up strongly from 3000rpm.

If it's too hesitant or not interested, then it could just need a clean out, or an intake leak fixing... or the turbo might be having problems... but generally if it doesn't smoke like a Kuwaiti oil field and doesn't clatter or bang or the dash' doesn't light up like a Christmas tree then there's probably nothing too terminal. The Fiat diesels are pretty indestructible.

It can smoke a lot if it's been sitting around justy being moved around the seller's yard etc. so if you rev it cold and a load of black smoke comes out initially, don't worry. Take it for that test drive and get it hot.. use a variation of revs to give it a bit of a clean out and then somewhere along your route (e.g. when testing the pickup from 3000rpm) have a look out of the left mirror to see whether there is a serious cloud of smoke. If you've been giving it some exercise, the smoke should gradually disappear.

Even if the engine is cold, it should start instantly (3 or 4 cranks of the starter) otherwise the high pressure pump might be weedy... but again, these don't go wrong so often that they ever get mentioned on the forum. If it's hot, the engine should start the same.


Values is tricky. Dealers tend to get all optimsitic when they get their hands on a shiny, good looking Stilo.. and try to sell them for c. £1800 (£2k doesn't shift). A tatty old Stilo bought privately comes in at just above scrap value of £450... so the real value should be in between.

The main thing is condition. If it's clean inside and the oil level is just under MAX and the coolant and washer fluid are nearly full and the brake fluid is topped up and clean (straw coloured) then chances are someone has been looking after it

If the oil is black and thick, there's no screen washer fluid and the coolant is grey and the brake/clutch fluid is dark brown, and the seats look like they've had an ashtray emptied over them, in between someone eating their Chinese Takeaway off them, then the beast has had a harder life and I'd just check the expensive stuff more carefully.

At 87k it should be ostensibly "perfect" (i.e. eveything should work, even though there will be wear and tear). Check the clutch since you're in the window where the slave might be deciding it's had enough.. a low brake fluid might indicate that it's leaking (prelude to a failure). It's inside the gearbox as far as I know (on the 115bhp it certainly is) so it's a "new clutch" if it goes. Clutch will last longer but if the slave fails, there's no point in not also changing the clutch.

I'd say a nice one with that mileage would be good value at £1500. It's worth paying a bit extra if there's new tyres, brakes, exhaust or even clutch.. since at this end of the market, you can buy a cheaper one for £1000 and then spend £800 fixing it. It's better to have one that's a few £hundred more expensive but doesn't need work.

Don't pay over £1900 though... that's a bit dear and pretty much the most expensive Stilo in the Galaxy won't cost that much (maybe the odd 2.4/Abarth/Schumacher etc... but not a humble old MJet).

But if it "smells" good, I'd chip some money off and buy it... It'll need some regular tweaking as you go but generally Stilo is cheap as chips to run and it'll go on to whatever mileage you decide it's not worth fixing any more...


Ralf S.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #7
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

thanks Ralph, offered them £1600 yesterday via email, but just spoke to the dealer and they are not shifting from £1950. Wouldn't even take my mobile number (all a ploy I know, but still).
They say they never shift on price, which is dumb, you always over-quote just in case someone pays it.
Anyway, at £1950 I think I have to leave it, shame.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #8
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

Quote Originally Posted by Mytheroo View Post
Anyway, at £1950 I think I have to leave it, shame.
There's a 2006 one for £995 here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Stil...QAAOSwhctdYBf9
.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #9
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Re: Sporting 150, buyer's guide

very interesting Davren, new seller with a paddock as a lot, but definitely an option. Is very much on stilts compared to mine. Do you know if my AP Coilovers (1.6 active) would be a direct swap to a JTD?

Am also looking at the Alpha GT Q2 with the 1.9 engine now, nice looking car.
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