General Abarth with performance issues..Can't figure it out.

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General Abarth with performance issues..Can't figure it out.

Hey guys. I am also having the same performance issue. Car feals sluggish and my exhaust tip gets black all the time. So I hope someone has figure it out what our problem is haha
 
Hi all,

I'm back again.. The problem hasn't been resolved yet. I can't seem to pinpoint the problem with the intakemanifold. Can't find the leak! Today I hooked up MES again, and it showed both lambdas are giving the wrong values.

I think I need to take it to a garage and let them have a go at it again. Frustrating as hell!

Greetz
 
If you know somebody with a party smoke machine type device you could use that to blow smoke into the inlet may not work very well through as you'd probably not be able to direct it very well

Have seen garage's do this allthrough with a slightly more speclised machine design for cars
 
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If you know somebody with a party smoke machine type device you could use that to blow smoke into the inlet may not work very well through as you'd probably not be able to direct it very well

Have seen garage's do this allthrough with a slightly more speclised machine design for cars

Hi Chris3234,

Sunday we did a smoke test on the inlet through the carterventilation on top of the manifold. We did see some smoke showing between the 2nd and 3rd cilinders, but we couldn't quite see where it was coming from.. So today, we removed the entire inletmanifold.. But hey! No leaks were to be found.. ANYWHERE!! We are stumped.. We put some pressure on the (plastic) manifold and only with some real pressure, some bubbels were showing on the little plastic lockings that are holding the unit together.. But only very very little ones. Those can't be the problem can't they? The only thing I can do now is putting it all together again and hope for the best... Or do you guys have any last thoughts?

Thanks all for the feedback so far! I really appreciate it!:)

Greetz,

Robert
 
Ok guys, I manager to put everything together again, and it feels like a different car. The performance hasn't returned unfortunatly, but the Rpm drop issues when pulling to a stop are resolved!:) Seems like cleaning every bit like the intakemanifold, throttle body etc did the Job! Also the car drives smoother and less clonky:)

Still, I want my power back. Is there a way to check if the lambdas are ok? I should I just buy 2 new ones? It can't be that both lambdas are broken right? Iv'e already replaced the 'below cat' once.. Didn't make any difference.

Greetz all!

Robert
 
Check voltage of both lambdas in MES, go to graphics and record them while driving. Voltages should be changing between 0.1v-0.9v.
If one of them is not changing its because is not working properly. Replace it.

You can save the graph and upload it here.
 
Check voltage of both lambdas in MES, go to graphics and record them while driving. Voltages should be changing between 0.1v-0.9v.
If one of them is not changing its because is not working properly. Replace it.

You can save the graph and upload it here.

Hi Astacheva,

I will do that! Thanks for your response:) Maybe today ik tommorow. I will let you know the results!

Greetz
 
Hi Guys,

Back again, still no change whatsoever. Bought a new pre-cat lambda, but made no difference. Values seem OK in MES. So I don't know what to check next. I haven't posted in a while cause my heater fan had issues, had to fix that first for MOT day. But that's all good now. Still, no power. If anyone still has an idea of what it could possibly be, leave a comment!:)

Cheers,

Robert
 
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Did you ever get to resolving this issue ?

Hi Nexusmick,

Net yet! I'm still trying different stuff one by one. The car seems to be improving after I changed the Air flow meter and a K&N filter. But the strange thing is, sometimes it still holds back.. Also when I brake hard or had a little understeer for example, the revs go up to 1000 Rpm in stationary.

If I find the cure for thuis, I will post it here!

Cheers
 
A dodgy lambda doesn't usually affect power - they tend to show up with a rough idle and a hesitation around 1600-1800rpm, which the cross-over point when the lambda heater circuit shuts off.

If your car idles okay and picks up smoothly then it has to be something else, not the lambda.

The MAF is usually the best place to start. If you have a Bosch MAF and it's new then it ought to be faultless. If you have a cheap/unbranded/unknown manufacturer MAF, then you gave someone money to take their plastic waste. Greta will be impressed.. :D but your car won't run right.

If the car has a manifold pressure (MAP) sensor on the inlet manifold, then for the money I would replace it, with the best quality part you can find. I'm not sure the MAP has as much influence as the MAF though, so there's no rush on that one.

I think it's a sensor/mapping issue now though, rather than a physical problem. If your fuel injectors were weedy or the fuel pressure was insufficient, the car would feel more jerky when it hit "the wall".. like it was running out of petrol. Yours (if I understood) goes okay but just doesn't have all its mojo?


Ralf S.
 
Have you checked the fly by wire throttle is opening fully? I know its not a Stilo but my Punto was doing the same, the throttle was only opening about 60-70% with the pedal fully down (no codes either).
 
A dodgy lambda doesn't usually affect power - they tend to show up with a rough idle and a hesitation around 1600-1800rpm, which the cross-over point when the lambda heater circuit shuts off.

If your car idles okay and picks up smoothly then it has to be something else, not the lambda.

The MAF is usually the best place to start. If you have a Bosch MAF and it's new then it ought to be faultless. If you have a cheap/unbranded/unknown manufacturer MAF, then you gave someone money to take their plastic waste. Greta will be impressed.. :D but your car won't run right.

If the car has a manifold pressure (MAP) sensor on the inlet manifold, then for the money I would replace it, with the best quality part you can find. I'm not sure the MAP has as much influence as the MAF though, so there's no rush on that one.

I think it's a sensor/mapping issue now though, rather than a physical problem. If your fuel injectors were weedy or the fuel pressure was insufficient, the car would feel more jerky when it hit "the wall".. like it was running out of petrol. Yours (if I understood) goes okay but just doesn't have all its mojo?


Ralf S.

Hi Ralf,

Where would I find this MAF sensor? I've not heard of it before, unless it's the sensor just above the airfilter housing.. Is it on the plastic inlet housing itself? I'd like to try that! And thanks for replying!

Regards,

Robert
 
Have you checked the fly by wire throttle is opening fully? I know its not a Stilo but my Punto was doing the same, the throttle was only opening about 60-70% with the pedal fully down (no codes either).

Hi Bill,

I've not inspected the opening of the throttle visualy. I don't know how the car will run with the air hose off. MES shows it is opening 100% in the parameters. But I will check that soon! Maybe it opens when it's not running as I press the throttle.

Cheers,

Robert
 
Hey robert can you make a test drive, then take out spark plugs and tell us are they blackish on the electrode end ?
 
Hey robert can you make a test drive, then take out spark plugs and tell us are they blackish on the electrode end ?

Hi,

I recently took out all the plugs, and they all look OK. They've all got a nice Coffee color.

Cheers
 
Well then i guess you could check fuel tank evap system i had a problem once cause i used to overfill my tank and evap system was working not good so i got a rich mixture hence no power ;) also which part of country are you based ?
 
Well then i guess you could check fuel tank evap system i had a problem once cause i used to overfill my tank and evap system was working not good so i got a rich mixture hence no power ;) also which part of country are you based ?

Hi flyingdutch,

I'm in Leiden by the way, I guess you are dutch too haha? But that's a good thought though about the evap system. How can I check this? The car was kinda ruïned by the previous owner, so it's a load of work this car.

Thanks! Let me know:)

Cheers

Robert
 
To check it i just unpluged the evap pipe and made it shut its on the left side in the motor bay by inlet manifold and by oil meter. Youll see a black pipe with connection that comes from under the car and goes under inlet manifold.
 
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