I had something weird happen the other day, Speedo and tachometer all stopped working. Everything was running fine just no dash instruments. My mechanic put it on his computer and could find no faults, the problem went away as suddenly as it happened, anyone know what this might be??
General Dash not working
- Thread starter mexnick
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General Dash not working
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Is it a 1.6?
Is the dash working okay now?
It could be a loose or damp fuse. If the console dies again it may be worth checking whether all the electrics work. If something else (maybe indicators.. I'm trying to remember) doesn't work too, then that would suggest the fuse box.
I think it's particularly F53 in the fusebox under the dashboard... but check F37 too.
There's also the odd incident with the "D4" connector block in the back of the console. They need to be removed, contact-leaned and put back together with some protective spray to keep condensation out. But this requires the clocks to be removed, so it's one to try if simpler things don't work.
Ralf S.
It could be a loose or damp fuse. If the console dies again it may be worth checking whether all the electrics work. If something else (maybe indicators.. I'm trying to remember) doesn't work too, then that would suggest the fuse box.
I think it's particularly F53 in the fusebox under the dashboard... but check F37 too.
There's also the odd incident with the "D4" connector block in the back of the console. They need to be removed, contact-leaned and put back together with some protective spray to keep condensation out. But this requires the clocks to be removed, so it's one to try if simpler things don't work.
Ralf S.
Last edited:
The problem has resurfaced. this time there are random lights/symbols lit up on the dash. i tried as you suggested above and all other electrical functions seem to be operating fine, do you think i need to consider having the clocks out and cleaning connections? if so, any link or advice on doing that?
many thanks
right, so i've had the clocks out, fairly straight forward which was a nice change!
the connector block on the back looked clean, wasn't sure on the procedure on taking that apart to clean so steered away from that option, for now. also seemed like someone has previously carried out some DIY to the wiring, see pic below.
been on line and seems like the dash failing on a stilo is not uncommon. found some unusual advice about using a fibre pencil to clean all the "black dots" on the back of the circuit board. anyone else heard of this type of thing, i haven't so didn't fancy attempting it until heard from others who know about this?
several people on ebay offering a repair service ranging from £70 to £120 which is what i may have to do unless anyone can suggest another idea to try before getting the wallet out?
the connector block on the back looked clean, wasn't sure on the procedure on taking that apart to clean so steered away from that option, for now. also seemed like someone has previously carried out some DIY to the wiring, see pic below.
been on line and seems like the dash failing on a stilo is not uncommon. found some unusual advice about using a fibre pencil to clean all the "black dots" on the back of the circuit board. anyone else heard of this type of thing, i haven't so didn't fancy attempting it until heard from others who know about this?
several people on ebay offering a repair service ranging from £70 to £120 which is what i may have to do unless anyone can suggest another idea to try before getting the wallet out?
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That wiring looks a little bit unusual. I wonder if the dash had problems before and someone tried to diagnose the fault?
There is probably some way to test the plug.. but I have no idea how, nor how you can find out... but you never know, someone on the forum might have access to the Fiat diagnostics instructions, if those go into that level of detail.
The clocks usually fail because one or more of the tracks on the PCB can corrode and if they're not perfectly formed, or thin or just brittle after a decade or more, that can impede the signal. They need a clean up or occasionally a new flash of solder to restore the connection.
The "graphite pencil" fix is just a way to bodge a repair if you can see a break in one of the circuit/tracks. You basically use the pencil to re-create the connection by laying down a line of graphite between the breaks. It may work and it may not.. or last just 5 minutes. Probably only one for Apollo 13...
If it was me, I'd get hold of some second-hand clocks and without fitting everything back together, just stick them in there to see if they work. Clocks need be be proxy-aligned to the Body Control Module, so "foreign" clocks will flash the odometer (and that will show the mileage of the donor vehicle) but otherwise they will be a straight swap and just work, if your wiring is okay. There's always a market for Stilo clocks so you can sell the spare set afterwards and get most of your money back.
You don't particularly even need "diesel" clocks... "petrol" clocks would work too, although the numbers printed on the rev counter will no longer be in the right place. The rev-counter needle will point to where the diesel revcounter printing would be.
Anyway, if the clocks check out then it's the wiring... and if the "new" clocks give the same errors (assuming you know for sure that they are not also knackered
) then you'll know it's the clocks.
Otherwise/in any case, you could do worse than find yellowstilo, a member on this forum. He'll be able to test your clocks to see whether they're any good. If you ask him nicely he might not even charge you if the clocks are fine... but don't tell him I said that...
Only tiny drawback is that he's in Holland, so it's a bit dearer to post the clocks to him and you probably need to do it sooner rather than later in case your clocks get impounded by Customs after Brexit day... (although technically they would be a temporary export, so not subject to import duty).
Make sure you send the clocks tracked.. Royal Mail (or Dutch post office) lost my original clocks... My second set (which also failed shortly after I fitted them) were repaired by Yello about 3 years ago now and are still (touches wood) working fine.
Ralf S.
There is probably some way to test the plug.. but I have no idea how, nor how you can find out... but you never know, someone on the forum might have access to the Fiat diagnostics instructions, if those go into that level of detail.
The clocks usually fail because one or more of the tracks on the PCB can corrode and if they're not perfectly formed, or thin or just brittle after a decade or more, that can impede the signal. They need a clean up or occasionally a new flash of solder to restore the connection.
The "graphite pencil" fix is just a way to bodge a repair if you can see a break in one of the circuit/tracks. You basically use the pencil to re-create the connection by laying down a line of graphite between the breaks. It may work and it may not.. or last just 5 minutes. Probably only one for Apollo 13...
If it was me, I'd get hold of some second-hand clocks and without fitting everything back together, just stick them in there to see if they work. Clocks need be be proxy-aligned to the Body Control Module, so "foreign" clocks will flash the odometer (and that will show the mileage of the donor vehicle) but otherwise they will be a straight swap and just work, if your wiring is okay. There's always a market for Stilo clocks so you can sell the spare set afterwards and get most of your money back.
You don't particularly even need "diesel" clocks... "petrol" clocks would work too, although the numbers printed on the rev counter will no longer be in the right place. The rev-counter needle will point to where the diesel revcounter printing would be.
Anyway, if the clocks check out then it's the wiring... and if the "new" clocks give the same errors (assuming you know for sure that they are not also knackered
) then you'll know it's the clocks.Otherwise/in any case, you could do worse than find yellowstilo, a member on this forum. He'll be able to test your clocks to see whether they're any good. If you ask him nicely he might not even charge you if the clocks are fine... but don't tell him I said that...
Only tiny drawback is that he's in Holland, so it's a bit dearer to post the clocks to him and you probably need to do it sooner rather than later in case your clocks get impounded by Customs after Brexit day... (although technically they would be a temporary export, so not subject to import duty).
Make sure you send the clocks tracked.. Royal Mail (or Dutch post office) lost my original clocks... My second set (which also failed shortly after I fitted them) were repaired by Yello about 3 years ago now and are still (touches wood) working fine.
Ralf S.
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this is a problem in the instrument cluster (99,9 % sure) - after my repair it will last for many years again …..
Just send a PM if you want more info....
Just send a PM if you want more info....
thanks Ralf, all really helpful, i appreciate you taking the time with all your advice.
I've had some ridiculous quotes so will definitely contact yellowstilo and see what he can do,
will post results as and when sorted to help inform others with similar problem
thanks again!
I've had some ridiculous quotes so will definitely contact yellowstilo and see what he can do,
will post results as and when sorted to help inform others with similar problem
thanks again!
Make the effort to clean the fuses. I have only had the instruments fail once and cured by cleaning fuses.
Worth a try.
Worth a try.
car went to my regular mechanic about a month ago who did all that. clocks came back on for a few weeks and then went again. the other day i disconnected the battery for an hour and when reconnected the clocks were working again, only for a few days though. with that in mind i'd guess it's not down to dirty fuses.
will be getting the clocks repaired soon, hopefully will report back with some good news then.
will be getting the clocks repaired soon, hopefully will report back with some good news then.
Thought I'd post results of the problem i had with the dash clocks. Eventually found a local place to me in Bradford who did a quick efficient job. Fixed them in an hour and have been working fine since (about 4 weeks now). £80 and comes with 1 year warranty, very happy to have finally got it sorted. Company are called Revtronic if anyone else has same problem in the Yorkshire area.
thanks for help from those who responded to this thread
thanks for help from those who responded to this thread
