Mytheroo
New member
Hi, I'm not certain how bad my Stilo has been running generally, it's not been perfect but I'd not really thought I had a major issue.
Yesterday on a long journey it started getting lumpier and lumpier, especially low speed and idle. Nothing was showing on OBD2 (Torque app).
Eventually it felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, I limped home and slept on it.
So today I've been testing things a bit. Unplugging the coil-packs one by one showed #1 was doing nothing to help the engine (or maybe say 5% difference but too close to nothing to not dismiss the idea it was an illusion).
I was thinking (hoping) bad coil-pack, but replacing it didn't help matters. I also have a cheap laptop-based oscilloscope and amp clamp and this was showing pretty much the correct current waveform entering the coil-pack. I also tried swap testing the coil-packs from 2 and 1 cylinder and the issue remained with #1 .
I checked the spark plug (irridiums) and swapped 1 and 2 and the issue remained with #1 cylinder.
I ran the engine briefly (2 seconds?) with the spark plug out thinking if it was getting fuel I'd see some kind of mist exiting the plug hole, I didn't see any, but am not sure this is a valid test?
The plug wasn't bone dry each time I removed it, but it looked more like a dampness of slightly oily carbon rather than petrol. I couldn't smell any obvious petrol (though the plugs obviously smelled "engine-ey" ), and the plug was definitely not wet.
Using the amp clamp on each of the wires in the 5-way connector to the injector rail gave a waveform on each that suggested to me that the signal was being sent by the ecu...and as it is an amp tester I suppose this means the circuit is ok and that the coil in the injector is being powered....but I've only just thought of this as I am typing, and I've only just read about testing the other side of the 5-way plug. I'll go Ohm test it now but wanted to get this question asked as soon as possible.
Are there other tests I can do injector-wise?
Can they be fixed...even temporarily?
Is it common for them to fail closed as a mechanical failure while the electrics all seems fine?
Should I be seeing an engine code?
cheers, Tim
Yesterday on a long journey it started getting lumpier and lumpier, especially low speed and idle. Nothing was showing on OBD2 (Torque app).
Eventually it felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, I limped home and slept on it.
So today I've been testing things a bit. Unplugging the coil-packs one by one showed #1 was doing nothing to help the engine (or maybe say 5% difference but too close to nothing to not dismiss the idea it was an illusion).
I was thinking (hoping) bad coil-pack, but replacing it didn't help matters. I also have a cheap laptop-based oscilloscope and amp clamp and this was showing pretty much the correct current waveform entering the coil-pack. I also tried swap testing the coil-packs from 2 and 1 cylinder and the issue remained with #1 .
I checked the spark plug (irridiums) and swapped 1 and 2 and the issue remained with #1 cylinder.
I ran the engine briefly (2 seconds?) with the spark plug out thinking if it was getting fuel I'd see some kind of mist exiting the plug hole, I didn't see any, but am not sure this is a valid test?
The plug wasn't bone dry each time I removed it, but it looked more like a dampness of slightly oily carbon rather than petrol. I couldn't smell any obvious petrol (though the plugs obviously smelled "engine-ey" ), and the plug was definitely not wet.
Using the amp clamp on each of the wires in the 5-way connector to the injector rail gave a waveform on each that suggested to me that the signal was being sent by the ecu...and as it is an amp tester I suppose this means the circuit is ok and that the coil in the injector is being powered....but I've only just thought of this as I am typing, and I've only just read about testing the other side of the 5-way plug. I'll go Ohm test it now but wanted to get this question asked as soon as possible.
Are there other tests I can do injector-wise?
Can they be fixed...even temporarily?
Is it common for them to fail closed as a mechanical failure while the electrics all seems fine?
Should I be seeing an engine code?
cheers, Tim