Hi

Just wondered if anyone had done this? By removal , meaning removal of the egr completely and associated pipework . Blanking and using a egr simulator?
If there any benefit over simply blanking?

Any help appreciated

Thanks
Reuben

Ive blanked mine didn't see any difference but when my car went into garage for a new inlet manifold they told me blanking wasnt a good idea and unblanked it

It might be possible that the older vehicles won't even flag an error when you blank the EGR. Some of them will show an air quality error.

Best thing to do is just blank it off and leave it connected electrically so it doesn't throw a warning for open circuit.

Blank it off on exhaust side so that the body of the valve doesn't fill with soot - just in case you want to put it back into use quickly at some point.

I've made my own blanking plate before now with a dremel and the bottom of a biscuit tin (as it's a bit thicker metal than a coke can!).

I wouldn't usually pick an argument with an expert in his/her profession such as a mechanic but I'm going to cry BS on blocking not being a good idea.

EGR is purely for emissions purposes, it recycles a portion of the exhaust gases as a way of reducing the emissions output of the vehicle. It's all to do with meeting the latest euro specification for vehicles and antipollution nonsense.

Blanking the EGR has many benefits, chief among which is letting the car breath on pure fresh air. My JTDms that i've had which I've blanked the EGR on both run noticeably smoother for EGR being capped.

On some of the engines Fiat / Alfa themselves even released an technical directive to fit a restriction plate to the EGR to limit the flow of exhaust gases through the motor. That one flew largely under the radar though so don't know that uptake was great.

It'll stop the manifold filling the soot - which is always good. The soot typically mixes with oil vapor to form a real ungodly sludge which gunks up everything. Newer vehicles with swirl flaps really suffer with the soot building up and restricting / damaging the flaps and ports.

It also removes a common fault point by blocking. The EGRs themselves clog with soot and leak boost, causing performance issues. If it's blocked of course this potential is removed.

Do it. I'd wager she'll run a bit smoother and give 1 or 2 more MPG for the pleasure plus you might gain a bit of missing bottom end power if it's leaking.

My old beast is "as above". I just blanked each end of the EGR .. but I cleaned the EGR out so it was moving freely and then just left it in place/connected.


I put a plate between the EGR and inlet manifold and another between the EGR and the pipe from the exhaust. This completely isolates the EGR from getting anything in it from either direction so that it can't gum up (which it might if either end was open).

I used the plate at the inlet manifold because the inlet manifold can collect oil vapour or crankcase blow-by (previous owner seemed to overfill the engine oil, judging by how much oil was in there/the dipstick when I bought it..) but seeing that gave me the thought that maybe I should also isolate the EGR from that side too.

I'd have preferred to put the second plate (going in to the EGR) lower down the pipe work - closer to the exhaust manifold - but on that end the bolts were corroded and I didn't want to risk shearing one off. As it is, exhaust can travel up the pipes to the EGR.. but this should be minimal since it's a dead end.

My beast revs a lot more easily and feels more powerful without the EGR channel being available. EGR passes exhaust gas into the inlet manifold.. so the inlet manifold ends up looking like an old-school (pre-cat) silencer - full of soot and in my case oil. That gets drawn into the combustion chamber, so it can't possibly be better for the engine than clean air.

I also noticed I don't get any soot out of the exhaust when I boot it... which is the opposite of what I expected. I guess the inlet charge burns more cleanly with fresh air rather than soot and oil residue..? I dunno..

Ralf S.

Done it on both my JTD’S no problem takes about 30 minutes start to finish, you will need a good strong set of Allen keys.
Where the silver corrugated pipe fits on to the EGR undo the two Allen bolts (very tight) slip out the gasket and use it as a template to make a blank plate a baked bean can will do the job fine and easy to cut with scissors.
Drill the two bolt holes using the gasket as a guide(obviously don’t cut the centre hole) slip the plate in without the gasket and bolt it up your done.
One car did 25,000 before the plate gave up did it again using slightly thicker steel, car done another 100,000 miles then I sold it.
The other car did 40,000 when I sold it.
The only advantage is less smoke on hard acceleration and no more cleaning the EGR.

One thing to note is that blanking or removing the EGR valve makes the car illegal to use on the road. In theory the MOT should check for changes to the emissions control equipment. I suggest you consider fitting a 3 hole restrictor plate rather than complete blanking.

Robert G8RPI.

cris1117 said:

<SNIP>
you will need a good strong set of Allen keys.
Where the silver corrugated pipe fits on to the EGR undo the two Allen bolts <SNIP .

Click to expand...

Those are RIBE headed bolts on Fiats, not hex (allen). I use these bits
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro168/

Robert G8RPI.