Technical Stilo 2.4 Abarth Manual ECU Failure
- Thread starter Speedtrip
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Stilo 2.4 Abarth Manual ECU Failure
That I don't believe as used ones will not work on the car, it either needs to be new or virginised.
Try another dealership, I think you've been fibbed to.
ECU failure is very rare. Are you sure that is the issue? Have you got a failing battery? It can present similar symptoms...
The first thing I did was buy a new battery to no avail. With the ignition switched on the engine checks go into a constant loop, the and the fan comes straight on which is apparently a sign of a defective ECU.
That is not true!
I once saw a stilo that was doing a similar thing: turn key on, get a lot of errors, cooling fan would come on.... in addition the car would sometimes not start ... once started it would run OK-ish.
We could also not connect to the ECU for diagnostics.
I tracked that down to a short inside the starter solenoid( on the stater motor).
fixed the short; then the car stopped throwing errors, fan was OK .. and we could connect to ECU for diagnostics.
I'm not saying you have the same fault.. but could be something similar.
Similar things can happen if one of the ECU's grounds starts to corrode..
-First thing is to get the ECU pinout;
-identify the ecu inputs for power and ground; then check they are ok(with a load..maybe a voltage drop test)
-identify sensor wires; identify the 5 volt rail/rails check it has 5v;
......
There are a lot of things to check before going out and buying a ECU.
Other item is if no battery cover for engine bay fuse/relay board is fitted moisture in this fuse board can cause all sorts of electrical problems, you may or may not have one fitted more information supplied the better to give advice and help with fix
I did get some very light rain on this board while charging the battery with the bonnet open. I sprayed WD40 across it and checking the fuses they appeared to be dry, but this was the first thing I suspected. I had the AA patrol come out and he also said the board looked dry, but worth another look perhaps as this was exactly when the issue first happened - I thought i'd fried the ecu as I put the battery (Sealey) charger on "fast charge" for the first time ever - I always choose trickle charge for safety when the battery is still connected.
Re the starter solenoid, I have passed this on to my mechanic as this is above my skills to check!
What does keep happening is the throttle/butterfly keeps opening (on a loop) making loud clicking noises which my mechanic tells me is all part of the starting routine which it appears to keep repeating. The car will start though and ticks over for about a minute then gradually the revs drop further and further until it eventually dies. It also dies if you blip the throttle, although if you are very gentle with it, it will move forward under it's own steam at walking pace.
Re the starter solenoid, I have passed this on to my mechanic as this is above my skills to check!
What does keep happening is the throttle/butterfly keeps opening (on a loop) making loud clicking noises which my mechanic tells me is all part of the starting routine which it appears to keep repeating. The car will start though and ticks over for about a minute then gradually the revs drop further and further until it eventually dies. It also dies if you blip the throttle, although if you are very gentle with it, it will move forward under it's own steam at walking pace.
Doesn't sound like ECU if its starting then, more a potential fuel supply issue.
ECU opened up and has a number of burned/damaged wires. General view is that this particular ECU cannot be repaired due to how fine the wires are. Have found a used replacement item from a working car but now cannot find anyone able to virginise this particular type of ECU ready for reprogramming - can anyone advise please? :worship:
Finally managed to find a company to transfer the settings (imobiliser code etc) from the old ECU to the new. Car fired up and ran perfectly first time - fantastic and all error codes cleared! Next time it was started, we have the imobiliser symbol back up so the car won't start again.
Has anyone any ideas why this would happen as seems totally illogical to me! Surely if another component (body computer?) was damaged it wouldn't have worked first time?
and all error codes cleared! Next time it was started, we have the imobiliser symbol back up so the car won't start again. Has anyone any ideas why this would happen as seems totally illogical to me! Surely if another component (body computer?) was damaged it wouldn't have worked first time?
