General Horn

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General Horn

stestilo7110

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My horn doesn't work on my stilo does anyone know how to fix and what would I do to fix it plz.thanks
 
HELP....Horn won't work!

Does anyone know how to fix a horn on a stilo. I know it probably behind the airbag which I don't want to take off..I might be wrong. Is there any step by step on how to fix this plz.thanks
 
Re: HELP....Horn won't work!

Much more likely the fault is with the horn itself. It sits in front of the offside wheel arch and is vulnerable to corrosion and damp which can affect the electrical contacts.
 
Re: HELP....Horn won't work!

Check fuse F10 and relay T3, both in the engine compartment fuse box.
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  • Engine Fusebox Diagram.JPG
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None of that makes any difference, stestilo - it'll be the same horn.

Take the wheelarch liner out on the driver's side (assume RHD) and you can see the horn. Check the connections, and test the horn by dabbing the + terminal with a length of wire straight from the battery. If it honks, you know the fault is in the wiring and you just need to trace back through relays, fuses and switches.

(to test the relay, look for an identical one in the fusebox and temporarily swap them. If your horn suddenly works but your wipers suddenly don't, it's the relay)
 
i changed my horn to a airhorn, as mine had stopped working, but i did it when i was changing headlight bulbs so bumper was off which made the job very easy as soon as i put a new horn on it was fine and has been since (almost a year)
 
None of that makes any difference, stestilo - it'll be the same horn.

Take the wheelarch liner out on the driver's side (assume RHD) and you can see the horn. Check the connections, and test the horn by dabbing the + terminal with a length of wire straight from the battery. If it honks, you know the fault is in the wiring and you just need to trace back through relays, fuses and switches.

(to test the relay, look for an identical one in the fusebox and temporarily swap them. If your horn suddenly works but your wipers suddenly don't, it's the relay)

When testing the horn as described above, does it need to be fixed to the car i.e. does it earth via the bracket which fixes to the body?

I tested the horn off the car, having assumed one terminal was positive and the other earth, but maybe that's not so?
 
The horn doesn't need to be connected to the car.

The easiest way to test the horn is by wiring a bulb or voltmeter into the car's wiring (at the horn's connectors) and pressing the horn button. If the light/volts flash, then the circuit is good, so any fault will be in the horn itself.


Ralf S.
 
Thanks Ralph.

I've ordered and just received Bosch horn(s) from Carparts4less. Unfortunately, they don't come with the plastic connector socket that's on the original (despite selecting the specific vehicle via Reg No on their system).

Presumably, if I want to fit one of these (the original is just one low tone horn), I'll have to cut the original wiring plastic block off and crimp suitable female connectors to the original wiring?

The instructions talk about 1) Horn switches negative, 2) Horn switches positive. What do I need to do to take this into account? Would I just push the newly crimped connectors onto the two terminals randomly, try the horn and reverse the connections if it doesn't work?
 
Thanks Ralph.

I've ordered and just received Bosch horn(s) from Carparts4less. Unfortunately, they don't come with the plastic connector socket that's on the original (despite selecting the specific vehicle via Reg No on their system).

Presumably, if I want to fit one of these (the original is just one low tone horn), I'll have to cut the original wiring plastic block off and crimp suitable female connectors to the original wiring?

The instructions talk about 1) Horn switches negative, 2) Horn switches positive. What do I need to do to take this into account? Would I just push the newly crimped connectors onto the two terminals randomly, try the horn and reverse the connections if it doesn't work?


The car wiring (from memory) has two wires to the horn (light blue and black rings a bell)...

If you have a single new horn, I would re-use the old connector. Cut off the connector with as much wire as you can from the old horn and then use bullet connectors to connect the old wiring to the new horn wiring. Black is earth/negative but if one way doesn't work, try swapping the bullet connectors round.

If you have twin horns then as above.. but you will need to first connect the two horns to a connector block and then attach the old wiring to the other end of the connector block, so that both horns are activated together.

Alternatively, if the ampage of the new horns is too fierce for the wiring, take a + supply from the battery (fused as appropriate for the horn).. attach it to a relay (and earth it) and then connect the existing wiring to the other pins of the relay, so the horn button is working the relay, not the horn directly.


Ralf S.
 
Thank you very much for your reply again Ralph.

Sorry, I might be being thick here, but I don't understand this;

If you have a single new horn, I would re-use the old connector. Cut off the connector with as much wire as you can from the old horn and then use bullet connectors to connect the old wiring to the new horn wiring. Black is earth/negative but if one way doesn't work, try swapping the bullet connectors round.

The connector (female) on the old horn is riveted (or similar fixing) to the body of the horn. If it was fitted with spade connectors and a block connector, I'd understand what you mean. As it stands, I'm not sure how I can re-use the old connector.
 
Ah yes.. you're right. The standard horn just has a couple of "male" spades on it.

I just remember that I fitted *something* :D where I cut the standard wire (with the connector) off the old component and then spliced that to the wiring coming from the new component, so that the apart from the joint between old wiring and new component, the installation was unchanged.

It may have been a lambda sensor or something.. I remember I wanted to use heat-shrink insulation on the new joint, so that it was more permanent and waterproof. Using the old connector block and wiring meant I could still disconnect the component if I needed to, without disturbing the new joint.

In your case, yes, you'll have to cut off the female connector and use insulated spade connectors instead. I remember I did the same thing (although I used a relay and a direct feed from the battery, since my new horn was an air-horn and needed more amps than the standard wiring was designed for.

Ralf S.
 
Thanks Ralph.

I've done it now. My crimping tool isn't great (hadn't used it for 20+ years); it has the crimping section below the pivot point (above is a wire cutter) so is fiddly to use. I ended up catching the first connector I crimped in it whilst crimping the second. Had to open it up with a screwdriver and by pushing a male spade into it.

For anyone with a faulty horn, there's a good guide here;

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-repair-a-car-horn-by-mia-bevacqua
 
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