Technical Rear brake caliper sticking
- Thread starter tara23
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Rear brake caliper sticking
Not sure why they are there. They fit in a groove in the bottom slide pin and make it an inteference fit in the bracket. I guessed that they stop the caliper moving in and out by itself. If you lubricate the pins with the wrong grease, they can swell and cause the caliper to stick.
.
.
what is the correct way of lubricating the pin with the rubber sleeve? as i don't seem to be doing it right (just waiting on an answer as just put new discs on, pin stiff as, on both sides as well)
Use red rubber grease on the pins on mine as found other types of grease make the rubber sleeve swell, from what I know a silicon based grease is more correct but as red rubber grease is closest I have and use for greasing the caliper piston also. The pins will come out to grease with some leaverage
Last edited:
You can get clear silicone grease from several sources, including Amazon and ebay. This is safe to use on caliper pins, including the ones with the rubber damper sleeve. This sleeve is there to give very slight resistance to free movement of the pins i.e. to stop them flopping about.
thanks chaps i used the silicone grease supplied with the seal kit (for seal replacement) im gonna see how it develops this time
So today I've changed the rear left caliper and I now have both rear calipers new. However:
1) When pulling the handbrake, the right wheel grips harder than the left - for example, if I pull the handbrake on a dirt road, the right wheel locks up right away, but the left one doesn't and locks only soon before coming to a stop. I have bleed the whole system, everything is lubricated, etc. The only thing I can think of is the handbrake cable - but when looking at it it moves freely. It releases completely and pulls on the lever when pulling the handbrake inside the car.
2) Do the sliding pins on the front calipers have one with the rubber sleeve like the rear bottom one? Today, when I was changing the rear left caliper I noticed that someone has put the pin with the rubber sleeve on top, so if there are also these rubber sleeves on the front I'm going to have to check the front calipers also.
3) I think the car pulls very slightly to the right when braking hard, but at least to me it feels almost as it doesn't do it every time you brake hard (I went out before after changing the caliper and bleeding the system and braked really hard a few times). What could possibly be wrong? All the pads around the car are evenly worn mind you, and the discs are relatively new (changed last year).
1) When pulling the handbrake, the right wheel grips harder than the left - for example, if I pull the handbrake on a dirt road, the right wheel locks up right away, but the left one doesn't and locks only soon before coming to a stop. I have bleed the whole system, everything is lubricated, etc. The only thing I can think of is the handbrake cable - but when looking at it it moves freely. It releases completely and pulls on the lever when pulling the handbrake inside the car.
2) Do the sliding pins on the front calipers have one with the rubber sleeve like the rear bottom one? Today, when I was changing the rear left caliper I noticed that someone has put the pin with the rubber sleeve on top, so if there are also these rubber sleeves on the front I'm going to have to check the front calipers also.
3) I think the car pulls very slightly to the right when braking hard, but at least to me it feels almost as it doesn't do it every time you brake hard (I went out before after changing the caliper and bleeding the system and braked really hard a few times). What could possibly be wrong? All the pads around the car are evenly worn mind you, and the discs are relatively new (changed last year).
Last edited:
Both front and rear calipers have one pin with a rubber sleeve.
I remember years ago a few people worried about right rear braking harder than left rear, i have past mot data and videos on here( nearer bottom)around post 164
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tuning-and-upgrades/351495-stilo-jtd-16v-7.html
I have had new disc pads and calipers off serviced sliders regreased etc and still had right brake more.
Id have to think its something designed in, like the way the cable splits or how the brake circuit is split.
Ive never felt the car twist due to this unbalance, so yours may be worse and another issue but dont be suprised to see a variance on the mot test machine.
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tuning-and-upgrades/351495-stilo-jtd-16v-7.html
I have had new disc pads and calipers off serviced sliders regreased etc and still had right brake more.
Id have to think its something designed in, like the way the cable splits or how the brake circuit is split.
Ive never felt the car twist due to this unbalance, so yours may be worse and another issue but dont be suprised to see a variance on the mot test machine.
Last edited:
Wow that fascinating, thank you! 
I did a couple more tests on the motorway in the range that I used to felt it in the most but now it seems that it's gone, I can only feel it if I really really concentrate and even then not always.
But I have to say that it felt the same last year (slight pull to the right in the rear if you're really cautious) and I passed the MOT without a problem.
I did a couple more tests on the motorway in the range that I used to felt it in the most but now it seems that it's gone, I can only feel it if I really really concentrate and even then not always.
But I have to say that it felt the same last year (slight pull to the right in the rear if you're really cautious) and I passed the MOT without a problem.
mrbrain
New member
Hi guys, I have to "renew" this thread.
I am currently runing 07' Bravo (66 kW) and having nearly similar issue with rear brakes as has been discussed above (and Stilo and Multipla has same rear brake calipers, if I am not wrong).
Shortly: Official service changed rear brake rotors and pads (but they missed to tight the bolts on left caliper). Everything was ok, but after four month it started to get sticky - left side. I figgured out that dust covers on handbrake lines were broken, so I used a little bit of oil to get it lubed and fixed it with electrical type - so far, so good. During the march, the exhaust was changed together with handbrake cables for right and left side (ATE). It moves freely now.
Well the sticking got back and I figgured that it was caused by the handbrake "shaft" in caliper. I lubed it, it was fixed for 14 days and got sticky again. So, I have changed left rear caliper BUT there is still an issue
The left rear wheel is getting little bit hotter (+20-30 °C) after normal town cruising for approx. 10 km. I have dissambled left rear caliper carrier, the guide pins were moving freely except the one with rubber sleeve on in, so I did a quick cleaning with new grease application (ATE Plastilube) and it was pretty smooth. I have also cleaned the pads brackets which are on the caliper carrier.
All in all, no big improve - when you lift the car you can still hear that the pads are touching the rotor completely, there is no place, if you rotate the wheel, when it just "hits it". If I do the same on the right side I can hear just two point when the pads hits the rotor and wheel moves "more" freely than on the left side.
Do you have any idea what to focus on? Did I missed something?
Thanks a lot. :worship:
I am currently runing 07' Bravo (66 kW) and having nearly similar issue with rear brakes as has been discussed above (and Stilo and Multipla has same rear brake calipers, if I am not wrong).
Shortly: Official service changed rear brake rotors and pads (but they missed to tight the bolts on left caliper
). Everything was ok, but after four month it started to get sticky - left side. I figgured out that dust covers on handbrake lines were broken, so I used a little bit of oil to get it lubed and fixed it with electrical type - so far, so good. During the march, the exhaust was changed together with handbrake cables for right and left side (ATE). It moves freely now.Well the sticking got back and I figgured that it was caused by the handbrake "shaft" in caliper. I lubed it, it was fixed for 14 days and got sticky again. So, I have changed left rear caliper BUT there is still an issue
The left rear wheel is getting little bit hotter (+20-30 °C) after normal town cruising for approx. 10 km. I have dissambled left rear caliper carrier, the guide pins were moving freely except the one with rubber sleeve on in, so I did a quick cleaning with new grease application (ATE Plastilube) and it was pretty smooth. I have also cleaned the pads brackets which are on the caliper carrier.
All in all, no big improve - when you lift the car you can still hear that the pads are touching the rotor completely, there is no place, if you rotate the wheel, when it just "hits it". If I do the same on the right side I can hear just two point when the pads hits the rotor and wheel moves "more" freely than on the left side.
Do you have any idea what to focus on? Did I missed something?
Thanks a lot. :worship:
Ah, following some research ,
Ate plastilube is the wrong lube to use on slide pins . It is too sticky and only becomes stickier over time . It is meant to be used on the back of brake pads. plastilube also damages rubber , your protective boots are at risk.
Clean it all out.
Ate plastilube is the wrong lube to use on slide pins . It is too sticky and only becomes stickier over time . It is meant to be used on the back of brake pads. plastilube also damages rubber , your protective boots are at risk.
Clean it all out.
Last edited:
mrbrain
New member
Thanks for reply.
I have bought new guide pins, some grease is attached to packaging so I am planning to change those completely.
Yup, rubber boots are fine, both of them are not damaged with "Bosch" logo on them, so they are genuine ones.
Those mouting brackets were cleaned with brake cleaner and lubed with grease, but they were coated with black paint (brake pads fitted are also genuine ones). I suppose that this could be also an issue, so I have prepared set of new ones (Textar, without paint) and I am going to change them. However on the right side they are coated too (I think that, because I was not disassembling that side) and it is not sticking.
Do you have any tip for a suitable grease? I got silicone one from ATE (bremszylinder paste, blue packaking aka "toothpaste", part no. 03.9902-0501.2./02 - cant post links), but I use it only when assembling calipers - lubraction of piston and piston seals, it could be used with DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids. I did some searching and suitable is Bosch Superfit paste, but it is similar in composition as Plastilube...so?
Another thing I have noticed is that rubber sleeved pin is on the top position in the caliper carrier. When I looked up for those in Eper I have found that those pins with rubber should be located in the bottom position - could this be an issue?
I have bought new guide pins, some grease is attached to packaging so I am planning to change those completely.
Yup, rubber boots are fine, both of them are not damaged with "Bosch" logo on them, so they are genuine ones.
Those mouting brackets were cleaned with brake cleaner and lubed with grease, but they were coated with black paint (brake pads fitted are also genuine ones). I suppose that this could be also an issue, so I have prepared set of new ones (Textar, without paint) and I am going to change them. However on the right side they are coated too (I think that, because I was not disassembling that side) and it is not sticking.
Do you have any tip for a suitable grease? I got silicone one from ATE (bremszylinder paste, blue packaking aka "toothpaste", part no. 03.9902-0501.2./02 - cant post links), but I use it only when assembling calipers - lubraction of piston and piston seals, it could be used with DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids. I did some searching and suitable is Bosch Superfit paste, but it is similar in composition as Plastilube...so?
Another thing I have noticed is that rubber sleeved pin is on the top position in the caliper carrier. When I looked up for those in Eper I have found that those pins with rubber should be located in the bottom position - could this be an issue?
If you change pads on one side you must change pads on other side , always with exactly the same type of pad.
If the pads are not sliding fit it the caliper bracket they cannot move away from disc when not braking.
Often thick rust builds up on caliper bracket trapping pads and stopping them moving freely.
One solution is to file the edge of metal back plate of pad so it doesn't get trapped and slides easily.
Swap slide pin with rubber sleeve to bottom hole as eper shows though I expect little difference.
If the pads are not sliding fit it the caliper bracket they cannot move away from disc when not braking.
Often thick rust builds up on caliper bracket trapping pads and stopping them moving freely.
One solution is to file the edge of metal back plate of pad so it doesn't get trapped and slides easily.
Swap slide pin with rubber sleeve to bottom hole as eper shows though I expect little difference.
Last edited:
mrbrain
New member
I'll try to write it more precisely:
5/2016 - in Fiat service were fitted genuine brake rotors and pads on rear brakes (however even in genuine service, they forget to tight left caliper)
6/2016 - tighten the caliper and noticed damaged rubber boots on handbrake lines (lubricated and repaird boots with tape)
9/2016 - noticed the sticking left rear caliper, handbrake cable was moving fine, it was handbrake mechanism at caliper (pulled it back and wasnt using it)
3/2017 - exhaust change was necessary so the middle part of exhaust was changed with both handbrake cables and the handbrake mechanism at caliper was lubricated and started to moving freely
3/2017 - the lubrication of caliper lasted only for a few weeks, so it started seizeing once again
4/2017 - the rear left caliper was changed
5/2017 - noticed that the rear left wheel is hotter (approx 20°C) than right one
Since that I was trying to fixed that - so I disassemble handbrake cables, both are moving freely. I also put away left caliper and watch for guide pins (as mentioned above) and pads brackets (did not perform this job on right side, as there is no problem at all I guess).
The problem is still there, so I am guessing what is the cause, as rotors and pads are new, cables are new and sticking caliper is also new... Will get the CV joint lubrication as the grease with new guide pins is very limited (approx 5 g).
5/2016 - in Fiat service were fitted genuine brake rotors and pads on rear brakes (however even in genuine service, they forget to tight left caliper)
6/2016 - tighten the caliper and noticed damaged rubber boots on handbrake lines (lubricated and repaird boots with tape)
9/2016 - noticed the sticking left rear caliper, handbrake cable was moving fine, it was handbrake mechanism at caliper (pulled it back and wasnt using it)
3/2017 - exhaust change was necessary so the middle part of exhaust was changed with both handbrake cables and the handbrake mechanism at caliper was lubricated and started to moving freely
3/2017 - the lubrication of caliper lasted only for a few weeks, so it started seizeing once again
4/2017 - the rear left caliper was changed
5/2017 - noticed that the rear left wheel is hotter (approx 20°C) than right one
Since that I was trying to fixed that - so I disassemble handbrake cables, both are moving freely. I also put away left caliper and watch for guide pins (as mentioned above) and pads brackets (did not perform this job on right side, as there is no problem at all I guess).
The problem is still there, so I am guessing what is the cause, as rotors and pads are new, cables are new and sticking caliper is also new... Will get the CV joint lubrication as the grease with new guide pins is very limited (approx 5 g).
Last edited:
