Technical EGR valve problem

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Technical EGR valve problem

Joined
Jul 24, 2003
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35
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Location
Barnsley, United Kingdom.
Hi there everyone,

I recently had the well documented EGR symptoms on my 1.9 sporting 150 Stilo. Loss of power below 2000 rpm (EGR stuck open) followed a few days later by power returning to normal but EML on (EGR stuck closed?). I removed and cleaned the valve after reading the guides on here and boy was it jammed up. It wouldn't move at all to begin with but after lots of cleaning it was free as a bird again. Refitted eveything and I was back to loss of power below 2000 rpm and EML still on (after disconnecting battery). Strange, I thought. So I took it off again and inspected it. Seemed to working fine. I took off the soleniod and tried the valve, fine. I pushed my mouth against the circular opening and blew into it, no sign of the valve leaking. I then refitted the solenoid and tried the same thing I could hear air leaking. Seems like the soleniod is not fully retracting and pushing the vavle open slightly. Refitted the vavle to the car without the solenoid and it runs fine but the EML is still on. I am thinking I need to replace the soleniod. any ideas?
 
I'm pretty sure the solenoid is not available on its own, you have to purchase the complete EGR.

While you have the EGR off I recommend you fit a restrictor plate, it will help prevent the same thing happening again.
 

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ive head of the vauxhall guys drilling the back end of the solenoid in order to tap and release and lubricate the center pin.never done it myself mine has always been free.
with the solenoid half diconnected does the pin move freely in the solenoid body?try wd40 down pin and give it a tap to see if its fully back.
 
Just measured my spare, solenoid split from valve the pin seems to be sprung with 1.4mm sticking out. I can force it in against the spring 2mm lower than face, it springs back to 1.4mm sticking out, grabbed with pliers I can pull the pin out to 6mm from the face no spring return(spring on valve will return it).
The valve stem end sits 1.3mm below the depth where the solenoid sits.
Hope this helps.
 
thanks for the info and taking the time to reply. My solenoid pin sits about 2mm proud. I can push it in, against the force of a spring (light force) but when it gets to about 0.5/1mm proud it stops and wont go in any further. If I pull it manually it comes out about 6/8mm. When I connect the solenoid to the wiring loom and start the engine, nothing happens to the pin. If I rev the engine to the redline still nothing happens. Sounds like the solenoid is shot but I might have a go at drilling it from the back. Nothing to lose I guess?
 
The restrictor plate for the multijet looks as though it blocks the flow completely from the drawing? Won't this make the EML come on? Presumably I will still have to fit a new valve/solenoid to make the EML go out? P.S. Where exactly is this MAF sensor I keep hearing about and how do you clean it? I haven't found full details on here yet. Thanks in advance :)
 
The maf is in the air pipe from air filter box to turbo inlet, worth cleaning when changing air filter. To remove the maf I unscrew the hose clip on the maf housing, then remove the 2 bolts holding the maf to the airbox( one visible one not but opposite corner underneath) I think you need a 10mm socket and an extension piece to make it easier.
I spray through maf with elec contact cleaner, some remove the maf element from housing but I don't think ours split.
Do the map sensor also while your at it, in the inlet manifold 1 bolt holding it in, you may have to pull breather pipe from oil sepperator to get to bolt its close. I use carb cleaner on this.
On the 2 sensors you have to pull out the yellow clip out first before the plugs can be split , practice on an easy to get to plug first as the maf plug is not easy.
 
OK, I sprayed WD40 down the plunger hole on the solenoid and tapped the pin with a hammer a few times and I can now get the pin to push slightly inside the housing. It's not jammed anymore. However, when I connect the solenoid up and turn on the ignition nothing happens. When I start the engine the pin still doesn't move and the EML is still on. I tried connecting the solenoid to a 12v supply (car battery) and it doesn't move. It measures around 6 - 7 ohms resistance across the supply contacts on the solenoid which seems a but low to me? Does anyone know if it should be moving and what the resistance should be? Also, should the EML go out on its own when the valve is working or will I have to have the computer reset?
 
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paintegrcoldstart.png
just measured, mines 8.3 ohms . 6-7 is more than likely o.k
never had the solenoid operating off the car but i think its more to do with pwm- pulse width modulation than on/off .
try making sure the car is fully warmed up before testing operation.
if your starting the car cold it would be shut or off anyway, ive logged egr operation a few times
i have data from one log that shows from a cold start (i think) 170 seconds (at least, as thats logged)before egr operated and then operated for 80 seconds then goes off again for about 100 seconds then operates again for 80 seconds. once warm i think at idle egr was on more and not cycled.
fault can be cleared , but while your testing it will re-occur as its measuring maf values and knows the valve has not opened as it hasnt seen maf value drop
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/821/paintegrcoldstart.png/
paintegrcoldstart.png

paintegrcoldstart.png
 
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Due to a back neck, I find it very difficult to do anything under my Stilo, I can just about manage the air filter but has anyone any suggestions (no not paying some one else to do it), but I wanted to spray some cleaning stuff into the MAF sensor, I presume this can't easily be removed from above engine, but how about drilling a small hole in the sensor (somewhere), just big enough for the little pipe on the tin of cleaner, obviously the hole would need to be blocked again with maybe a small screw.
 
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