Hello all, any idea why my left rear pad got stuck on the disc ?
It cause it to heat up, evaporate a bit of brake fluid and now I have air in the system
RAC are on their way, just need to unstuck pad and bleed system and should be fine right? Braking pedal is quite flappy, if i press it a few times its stiff again -> air in the system...

Cheers,
Andy

Ps need help asap as i've broken down 4 miles away from dolgellau, was on my way to liverpool now...

i'ld say the only way a pad could get stuck like that is that the sliders that the pad moves on are all fowled up? or that the handbrake mechanisim has stuck on, on one side? if u can, place a chock on the wheel or have someone step on the brake whilst the handbrake is off and have a look under the car at the back, the lever that the cable is on should be down on both sides.

gadgemyster said:

i'ld say the only way a pad could get stuck like that is that the sliders that the pad moves on are all fowled up? or that the handbrake mechanisim has stuck on, on one side? if u can, place a chock on the wheel or have someone step on the brake whilst the handbrake is off and have a look under the car at the back, the lever that the cable is on should be down on both sides.

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I got it towed back home.. it's the piston in the brake caliber. It corroded and got stuck. The recovery guy tried everything to unstuck it (i.e.: wd40, push it back in etc... in the end he tried to take it out and when trying to unscrew the pipeline bolt it was so stuck it broke, so now the caliber it definitely gone. Anybody got ideas how much will one cost?

Andy

free if you claim it back off the recovery guy... standard mechanicing rule = you break it, you buy it!

richydraper said:

free if you claim it back off the recovery guy... standard mechanicing rule = you break it, you buy it!

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True, but it was broken anyway, poor guy tried in freezing cold for almost two hours to unstuck the piston and wind it back without managing it. It's just not in me to do this, I realise it was gone already, he just tried to put me back on the road for another couple of days. Maybe I'm letting him off to easily but that's just me

Andy

approx £75 from euro car parts, they exchange and re manufactor the old one so you need to whip all the bits off..
edit OUCH £103 now!!!

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/F...311178efaf4af4c42132b17e1e0b8743636154&000048

i only replaced one about 7 months back that is a big jump in price!!
You may want to go about rebuilding yours if you have the know how and tools to do it, you can get seal kits pretty at reasonable prices, but you still need to remove the crude and replce the internal piston.

I went with these guys ;-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Stil...592405410&po=&ps=63&clkid=5640949436215652166

And they are great. £30 refunded per caliper when you send back your old one. I got both sides, so it cost £120 for both (after the refunds) which isn't bad. They come with a 2 year/24,000 miles warranty which is pretty good.

Just check or contact them confirming which of their adverts are for your particular stilo engine & body variation & the correct side needed.

I actually went with these guys:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170738078123?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I'll get it tomorrow morning, will let you know if everything is ok. Knowing that I've been quoted 170-200 almost everywhere it was worth getting this one and trying it

A

Finally fixed it lads, total cost was £50 caliper plus £40 local garage for installing it. I don't think that's too bad like. Handbrake doesn't feel as effective though( need to pull it up properly to hold, once it holds it's good, but I had a short run on it before), any ideas on that?

Andy

The garage may not have followed the correct procedure for adjusting the handbrake after replacing a calliper.

1. With the handbrake off, loosen the cable adjuster nut 5 or 6 complete turns.
2. With the engine running, pump the brake pedal vigorously about 25 times.
3. Adjust the cable adjuster nut so the handbrake holds the car securely on 5 clicks of the handbrake lever ratchet.
4. With both rear wheels off the ground and the handbrake off, check that the rear wheels spin freely.
5. Test drive the car enough to get the rear brakes hot, then repeat step 4.

Handbrake cable adjuster is behind the center armrest.
.

Davren said:

The garage may not have followed the correct procedure for adjusting the handbrake after replacing a calliper.

1. With the handbrake off, loosen the cable adjuster nut 5 or 6 complete turns.
2. With the engine running, pump the brake pedal vigorously about 25 times.
3. Adjust the cable adjuster nut so the handbrake holds the car securely on 5 clicks of the handbrake lever ratchet.
4. With both rear wheels off the ground and the handbrake off, check that the rear wheels spin freely.
5. Test drive the car enough to get the rear brakes hot, then repeat step 4.

Handbrake cable adjuster is behind the center armrest.
.

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Tidy, cheers Dave, will do that this weekend