We've been having a few problems with the Stilo since buying it. Nothing major but it intermittently looses power when driving and will not go on boost. This only happens for seconds at a time but can be quite off putting when trying to pull away into moving traffic.

I've gone through various threads and put the symptoms down to the EGR valve.

A few weeks ago I stripped the whole thing down to find the solenoid and valved covered in soot and it was jammed. Cleaned it all up and freed up the valve. Worked great for a week or so but the problem came back.

Yesterday I removed the solenoid whilst in situ and found that the valve was jammed again so freed it and went for a drive. Seemed ok but after 150 miles, the problem came back. Quite severe at one point lasting a few minutes on the M62 at 80mph. Had to drop down into the left lane and keep my foot to the floor to stop it dropping bellow 45mph. Came back to life though and carried on as normal.

Got me thinking as to how the valve works. Found a few threads with links to other forums explaining it. Starting to become apparent that it probably isn't the EGR valve as it only operates when the car is cruising, not under load or at idle. So why am I getting cutting out at full load when the EGR shouldn't be operating anyway?

So, I made up a blanking plate today and fit it between the corrugated pipe and the valve. Car ran noticeably rougher at idle as everyone said it would but seemed more responsive and drove fine for around 20 miles. Then I felt the dreaded loss of power. Only for a split second but definitely there.

So I'm at a loss as for what to try next. I cleaned up the MAP and MAF when I originally cleaned the EGR so assume it isn't those. Is there any way of actually testing the MAP or MAF?

Have seen a few bits and pieces about the boost valve or something but they always seem to say that an error light would come on if it was this at fault. We get nothing!

Any ideas or help appreciated!

If your sure its not the EGR then my guess would be your MAP Sensor is faulty.
When our MAP failed it was short and infrequent at first but over a period of weeks it failed more often for longer periods until a total failure after about 8 weeks.
If you have access to another MAP Sensor try swapping it and see if your situation improves.

I'm not 100% sure it's not the EGR but if it is still loosing power with the EGR blanked off then surely it can't be?

Think I'll take the MAP and clean it again. Was pretty gunky the first time so will be worth a look incase its clogged again.

Cheers

Hi there i had similar problems to this and did what you are saying and have done still didn't solve the problem. Plate in egr system / new maf sensor still got the old one which proved to be okay.

Eventually what i found was that the brake pedal was down and the lights on this seems to cut the power as it's linked to the brake pedal.

Try lifting the brake pedal upwards when you have the problem to make the contact, it worked on mine.

The problem seemed to come and go but when i lifted the pedal everything went back to normal.

Mike

Never heard that one before. I'll try pressing the pedal to see if it loses power first. Never heard of that in any car.

mikelotus said:

Try lifting the brake pedal upwards when you have the problem to make the contact, it worked on mine.

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The brake switch can I think sometimes be an issue (the fault will be logged within ECU) but NEVER EVER DO THIS.

It's the very act of lifting the pedal that cause the brake switch to become unset in the first place

Argonought said:

The brake switch can I think sometimes be an issue (the fault will be logged within ECU) but NEVER EVER DO THIS.

It's the very act of lifting the pedal that cause the brake switch to become unset in the first place

Click to expand...

Agreed.....lifting the pedal is forcing the switch against itself which means you have to pull the switch out manually to reset it...Do not force the switch or you will create more probs..

Hi guys

Glad I found this post but I still am inconclusive as to a few things that I have come across recently so I would like some advice if possible .

A few days ago I needed to have the front wheels of my yellow beast rebalanced due to a wobbly steering wheel and I chose to have the tracking done at the same time just to simply adjust the steering if anything was out of place as a precaution.

Now surprise... or maybe not... a few hours after I left the garage the steering came all lively again and well it is typical that you pay someone for a service and they just promise and give you a load of crap in return really :yuck:, oh and by the way by the time I left the garage and this happened they had already closed for new years, ironic lol, and they had kept me waiting for 1 & 1/2 hours to have the work done, lol unreal :yuck:

Now to the relating point, in the day that I drove off their court it is when I noticed this sudden power loss between low revs of 1500 to 2100 rpm. But I can regain power gradually by shoving the accelerator flat down hard. The weirdest thing is that if I drive normally with out demanding instant turbo spool it seems fine, but when I need it it can flop on me.

As Bushboy explained and other threads on the Fiat forum there are a few areas which I need to explore, EGR valve, MAP sensor and the MAF sensor.

Is there any way that from under the wheel arches or underneath the car that these mechanic Y Tits could have tampered with something? I did check and seems they never opened the bonnet as no dirt marks were left (embarrassing lolol) It is just so convenient that this issue came around all the sudden when I left their garage :yuck:

Any help would be most appreciated.

Ballackcanavaro99 said:

Hi guys

Glad I found this post but I still am inconclusive as to a few things that I have come across recently so I would like some advice if possible .

A few days ago I needed to have the front wheels of my yellow beast rebalanced due to a wobbly steering wheel and I chose to have the tracking done at the same time just to simply adjust the steering if anything was out of place as a precaution.

Now surprise... or maybe not... a few hours after I left the garage the steering came all lively again and well it is typical that you pay someone for a service and they just promise and give you a load of crap in return really :yuck:, oh and by the way by the time I left the garage and this happened they had already closed for new years, ironic lol, and they had kept me waiting for 1 & 1/2 hours to have the work done, lol unreal :yuck:

Now to the relating point, in the day that I drove off their court it is when I noticed this sudden power loss between low revs of 1500 to 2100 rpm. But I can regain power gradually by shoving the accelerator flat down hard. The weirdest thing is that if I drive normally with out demanding instant turbo spool it seems fine, but when I need it it can flop on me.

As Bushboy explained and other threads on the Fiat forum there are a few areas which I need to explore, EGR valve, MAP sensor and the MAF sensor.

Is there any way that from under the wheel arches or underneath the car that these mechanic Y Tits could have tampered with something? I did check and seems they never opened the bonnet as no dirt marks were left (embarrassing lolol) It is just so convenient that this issue came around all the sudden when I left their garage :yuck:

Any help would be most appreciated.

Click to expand...

You are on your own:bang:

NumanR said:

You are on your own:bang:

Click to expand...

I just wanted to know if if any components can be tampered with from underneath the car or not which relate to the symptoms described in the post, Eg: loss of power, these dodgy mechanic garages now days can be more of more of a pain in the ass than helpful :yuck:

Ballackcanavaro99 said:

I just wanted to know if if any components can be tampered with from underneath the car or not which relate to the symptoms described in the post, Eg: loss of power, these dodgy mechanic garages now days can be more of more of a pain in the ass than helpful :yuck:

Click to expand...

I blame the plonkers with yellow stilos that go to them

NumanR (Owner of Yellow Stilo:slayer

LOL

No honestly,lol, i should read twice before I submit, lol, i have used these guys before and have never had any no probs at all, just seen some new faces walking around the garage which looked like some newbies to me, its looks like I will not be going to get any advice so thanks any way

PS: the car may be yellow and a beast but believe me I am not a plonker lol
:yuck:

Would like to apologise for my mistake, it was not the garage at all even tho the wobbly steering has not disappeared, i think i might have a cracked wheel bearing, in the end the problem is down to a massive, very messy breather pipe leak, god damm :yuck:

here are some pics just to enlighten the conversation

That looks more like someone missed while filling up the engine with oil. :chin:

They never touched the car form underneath the bonnet I did check, the pic below shows the oil cap better.

Is there a guide or a link where I can read up on these engine part components? I just do no really know what I am looking at.

I now know why why my engine oil has lowered in the past week and I do not want to irritate whatever the problem is. :yuck:

Can anyone enlighten me on what component this is, the breather pipe attached in the 2nd pic along is leaking bad and where it is connecting to I think it is the air intake pipe am I right?

Any ideas as to why this is extremely leaking both in the component shown and of the top end of the breather pipe?

Could it be turbo related? Or a simple cracked pipe?

Both these clips are new and both seem to be leaking or had oil spilt on them.

Thank you for you reply and the description of the parts

Yes I had them replaced recently as you pointed out in a previous post what they were and so I got them mended.
I know that I have been loosing oil as my on board computer bleeped its common jingle, do you think it could be a cracked pipe?

Or could it be worst? there is a hell amount of oil all over these components and I have been experiencing power loss which led me to this post.

Seems that I lose pressure when accelerating and oil seems to be going wildly loose.

I'm no mechanic but I'm sure if oil is being forced out passed these clips the pressure inside the engine case must be a lot higher than normal.

Worn piston rings, worn exhaust valve guides, gasket failure can all cause high engine case pressures and force oil out where it wouldn't normally.

As the amount of oil loss seems large I would think spotting any cracks would be easy. So my guess is your power loss is a result of one or more of the above and high engine case pressures are forcing oil out of and down the breather, into the intake to be burnt in the engine. :chin:

Appreciate your comments

I hope it is none of what you have described , I will monitor the oil and the pipes, check for any cracks too.

I will begin to also do it by the book or the forum guide and clean off the EGR valve and then take it from there, did have a sneak peak a the MAP sensor and the earthing and it seemed ok.

Hope that it was just a spill and not an oil pressure burst, man I love this car and the last thing I want is to see it go.