Technical P0105 & p0340

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Technical P0105 & p0340

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Oct 22, 2005
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sunny basildon
Hi guys,
the 1.6 decided to throw a wobbly today, first of all it failed the mot on n/s balljoint, - no problem less £55 and 20mins of my time the fault was fixed and the car retested - pass NO advisorys!!

anyways, i handed the car back to the mrs as its hers, and she goes of to her mums safe in the knowledge that her husband has kept her car in tip top working order.

She then breaks down on a major roundabout with engine fault (if the person who gave her abuse is on here that owns a y reg red punto - dont let me see you - some things i expect but calling her a c*** infront of our 3 kids.... well if i had been in the car.....).....
roll on, she calls the aa and they diagonse the car with map sensor p0105 fault and camshaft sensor fault p0340???!?!?
the car is a 1.6 so im 99% sure it doesnt have this sensor and the map sensor is causing the problems.
the faults were cleared and the car drove home ok she reported.
im gona give the throttle body another clear out - it was only completed last year and the car only has done 5k so impretty sure it will be ok in there.
im only posting this as it has confused me having both errror codes stored, a quick search didnt bring them both up.
in my mind im barking up the correct tree, but as proven so often IM ALWAYS WRONG lol.
any pointers?
cheers
roy
 
cam angle sensor 2.JPG
You have a cam sensor on the 1.6. It's not so much like the JTD's where it finds out the cam angle which alters through the variator but on a 1.6 it's simply working out is there a timing error between the cam and the crank ( badly fitted timing belt) and to work out which cylinder is on the compression stroke so it knows which one to put the fuel and sparks in at start up
CIMG2140.JPG
As it's a circuit failure then have a look to see if you've trapped the wires or detached the connector as it runs down the front by the dipstick tube and across the sump pan. Cam sensor is the white one here

CIMG2150.JPG
The white connector is the cam sensor, black one the rpm sensor. You can slide them off the mount plate and then depress the metal spring to pull the connector apart

You can do some circuit tests from underneath the car, resistance across the connector for continuity through the sensor and check its output

P0105 means MAP sensor output doesn't correlate to the reported throttle position. Simply clearing the fault tells it to "try again" and so see if it pops up again. If the MAP connector loses contact then the ECU is lost as to what to do If it starts up with a dead MAP sesnor output then it makes a good guess from the throttle position as to what's going on and carries on as if nothing has happened but at the expense of fuel economy
 
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damn fine post there decks, thanks!!!
i didnt know there was a sensor on the cam, i had never noticed it at all,anyways cam sensor clip was covered in oil, looks like general spillage over the years, removed it and cleaned it off, took the car out for a spin and seems fine, i suppose only time will tell.

roy
 
well just got back from an 100mile nearly round trip with no problems, the car is gutless being an 1.6 but ran fine.
im gona plug in the diagnostics again tomorrow and check its all fine, i suspect the cold weather coming in all of a sudden and the wife not really doing that much motering (only 5k in a year) allowed the leads/ sensor to film with moisture, hopefully my drive today may have cleared it all, thanks again mate, these cars are really fickle
roy
 
Didn't want to start a new topic so i'll continue on this one. Weekend i drove to london and back from manchester . Over 400 miles and not a single error. This morning it took a good 10 seconds to get the engine running and then a dreaded beep... CHECK ENGINE! I needed to be somewhere so i drove it anyway. It stalled a few times when i depressed the clutch and the power was way below par. Been a bit stuttery on the idle too.

Got her home and connected up diagnostics, P0105 and P0340.

Put my foot down and maximum revs was limited to 3800rpm.

I've not tried Deck's suggestion yet but just wanted to post anyway.
 
I can't seem to find the sensors... Any help much appreciated. Should i be looking from underneath the car???
 
So i've been under the car, identified the cam sensor, ate a load of oil and dust...

Disconnected the sensor and it all looked fine inside, contacts were perfectly clean, just a bit of dirt and grime on the rubber surround. Cleaned whatever i could, restarted the car and it was worse! Plus the beep was way more excessive.

In neutral, the car revs to 3800rpm. When driving it will barely go over 3000rpm so its like driving a extremely underpowered car!
 
OK you're in safe mode. P0105 is a mismatch between amount of air going in engine and what the throttle body is saying. It doesn't add up so it's going for safety first

I'd attend to your P0105 MAP sensor fault code now
I'd disconnect the MAP connector, spray the elect contacts with elect contact cleaner- nothing else- let it dry and then reconnect

clear the P0105 fault code and turn key to MAR, wait 30 secs and then turn ign off. It's now storing today's atmospheric pressure
Start the engine but don't touch the gas, just let it idle until temp comes up to normal then turn it off. It now knows idle manifold vacuum air pressure and has stored that

Now drive it and see if it still wants to go in safe mode
 
OK you're in safe mode. P0105 is a mismatch between amount of air going in engine and what the throttle body is saying. It doesn't add up so it's going for safety first

I'd attend to your P0105 MAP sensor fault code now
I'd disconnect the MAP connector, spray the elect contacts with elect contact cleaner- nothing else- let it dry and then reconnect

clear the P0105 fault code and turn key to MAR, wait 30 secs and then turn ign off. It's now storing today's atmospheric pressure
Start the engine but don't touch the gas, just let it idle until temp comes up to normal then turn it off. It now knows idle manifold vacuum air pressure and has stored that

Now drive it and see if it still wants to go in safe mode

Thats a little reassuring its in SAFE mode so the engine is restricted. Is it ok to drive though as i still have to drive daily.

I tried the above, but was a bit unclear. When i tried to clear the fault code with the ignition on, my software kept coming up with an error and would not reset the code. With the engine set to MAR and not running, the code P0105 would clear but the P0340 would still be there. I did everything else as you said but to no avail. Plus when she starts now, the idle is very jumpy, on the verge of stalling but after about a minute of driving, the idle settles down.

I only cleaned the white connector.

Exact codes are:
P0105- Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit malfunction
P0340- Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
 
Is it ok to drive though as i still have to drive daily.
yes although a little embarassing:)

When i tried to clear the fault code with the ignition on, my software kept coming up with an error and would not reset the code
. P0105 would clear but the P0340 would still be there
ok the camshaft position sensor circuit needs investigation. Check for open circuits from ECU through CMPS and back to ECU. Then check for voltage and earth and then signal supplied with engine running

What size engine do you have? They're all a bit different
 
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Would it make any difference if i used different software? I currently use easy obd II. Would the fiat ecuscan be any better?

Mines a 1.6. Other than that, i have no idea what CMPS is and how to do what you said...
 
Oh and the embarrasment is a bit hard to live with as the stilo looks pretty sporty but currently drives like a 500cc... Second gear has never been so gutless!!!
 
Would it make any difference if i used different software? I currently use easy obd II. Would the fiat ecuscan be any better?
It's up to you, as generally more useful as FES is then in your case you already have the fault code but having more information is always helpful

fuelign circuit 1.6 2.JPG
Sorry, CMPS just stands for camshaft position sensor. If you're feeling capable then you could test the circuits.Note the MAP sensor K43 and CMPS K47 share in parallel their 5v supply and earth from the ECU so they could very easily affect one another if there is a short circuit and yu have fault codes for both of them. Note also the CMPS has an outer shield, a sheath that is earthed at C40 to protect it from electrical spikes. A problem with this would cause bad signals too

You could check for continuity and short circuits to earth, Check their wires for damage like crushed or burnt wires and open circuits
 
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I'm guessing i need a multi/volt meter?

Decks you have the patience of a saint! Where exactly should i be testing for these? Doing the physical stuff i don't mind, like changing brakes etc, but technical stuff baffles me!
 
Ha yes you'd need a multimeter but you only need something simple maybe between £5- 10

Then i'd check for continuity ie a completed circuit from the ECU connector through the CMPS and MAP sensor. You check out the pin numbers 43 and 7 on ECU connector B and use your multi meter to check for a low resistance circuit . Then, with power on and connectors reconnected id check for 5v power and earth being supplied to them by back probing ie putting a pin or similar in the back of the connector down the wire so you can check for power without having to disconnect the connector
 
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The one thing thats really putting me off is the rain as i have to get under the car and that means making a mess of my clothes. It doesn't help that everything is so unaccessible on the stilo.

I'll get a multimeter tomorrow and then try my luck. One final question, where is the ECU...

(y)
 
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