Technical Heater/ventilation reset?

[Andymacselespeed]

My car seems to have gotten itself in a muddle. Heater works fine, but on 16 or Lo the car still blows warm/ hot! Iknow the ac needs a regas, but it should blow ambient temp on cold shouldn't it?

Anyone know the procedure for the heater flap position reset? I think with the battery being disconnected a fair bit of late that mag have something to do with it playing up. It reads outside temp fine on display.

Cheers

Andy

ps the pollen filter was replaced last service so no blockages there.

 

[Morty Mort]

Canæt remember 100%, but try this:

Start the car and let it idle. It is impossible when driving - you won't get access.

Turn off the unit.

Press auto and mono and hold them.

There should be a countdown from 03 to 00 in the display. I think it was.

When you should let go of the buttons I can't remember, but it won't do any harm.

 

[Davren]

From eLEARN:

Climate Control Self Learn.


The AUTO and MONO buttons must be pressed simultaneously within 40 seconds of the ignition being turned to the ON position in order to activate this procedure. A few seconds later a figure will appear on the display (in place of the driver's side set temperature) which will count down to indicate the time remaining before the start of the procedure. At the same time (i.e. whilst the count down is taking place) the previous self-learning status is signalled on the passenger temperature setting:

• '1' flashes if the previous self-learning procedure failed.
• '0' indicates that the previous self-learning procedure was successful.

This procedure is not carried out if at least one of the above mentioned buttons is released whilst the figure on the left hand side is not zero (this is designed to check the outcome of the previous self-learning procedure).
Exiting the procedure zeroes the 40 second counting period from when the ignition is switched ON, to allow the procedure to be repeated without having to switch the ignition OFF.


There's also self diagnostics for the climate control but unfortunately, apart from engine speed, road speed, fan speed and gas pressure, there doesn't seem to be an accurate list of what the 72 different codes mean.

Start the engine.

1) Push the HRW button for 5 seconds. All the elements on the display will show up then disappear.
2) Push the HRW button again to go up the menu and the OFF button to go down the menu. The menu is from 00 to 99 as shown in the driver side temperature digits. The value is shown in the passenger side temperature digits.
3) To exit the menu, press the HRW button for 5 seconds then release.

 

[Andymacselespeed]

Nice one, gave it a try this morning,lots of whirs and clanks from the dashboard.Seems to be back to the noises it made before the battery change.

Will see if it helps

 

[Greggers]

Nice one, gave it a try this morning,lots of whirs and clanks from the dashboard.Seems to be back to the noises it made before the battery change.

Will see if it helps

I have to admit, mine is a bit temperamental as well. Sometimes it'll be fine when I start a journey and then get a bit too toasty/cold, no matter what setting I put the temperature to. A reset does seem to help

Coincidentally, my AC also needs a refill but I just haven't got around to it yet. I've got a new expansion valve and dehydration unit I want to fit at the same time but I think I need to change the flexi hose first as I have a slow leak... When summer gets here, I'll get it sorted

 

[Andymacselespeed]

How much does the drier run to, and is it s diy job?

 

[Greggers]

How much does the drier run to, and is it s diy job?

Honestly, I persoanlly don't think anything to do with the A/C is a diy job but the part itself is about £30-£35 and roughly the same for the expansion valve.

I've looked at the job and it seems to be a right pain in the arse to fit and I'd rather let someone else have a go so that if it still leaks, I can moan at them

 

[Davren]

How much does the drier run to, and is it s diy job?

Fitting the drier is not the easiest job to do. It fits into the condenser and is held in with a circlip.

I fitted a new condenser last year that came complete with a new drier, thought I'd take the drier out of the old condenser but it was seized solid.

 

[Andymacselespeed]

Was only thinking about it as a soy job as my ac system is not working so next to nothing in the system. If it's a pain I shan't bother!

 

[Andymacselespeed]

Right, update, the reset on the heating system has worked wonders, no more hot air when the setting is on lo.

Maybe this thread, or at least Davrens bit could be stickified?

 

[Davren]

Glad it worked for you.

The thread has a relevant title so anyone searching for the subject should find it. I don't think it needs to be "stickified" :chin: I think it looks a bit messy with too many stickies at the top of the first page. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

 

[cheddar]

Fitting the drier is not the easiest job to do. It fits into the condenser and is held in with a circlip.

I fitted a new condenser last year that came complete with a new drier, thought I'd take the drier out of the old condenser but it was seized solid.

It has always puzzled me why the aircon air struggles to demist the front screen and also feels stuffy even on low settings. I guess the drier has always been duff. Where on the JTd is the condenser/drier located and is it a DIY replacement?

 

[Davren]

As I posted in #8 above. The drier is fitted into the condenser.

The combined condenser and drier are fitted in front of the engine cooling radiator. It's possible to replace it as a DIY job but you would need to disconnect the gas pipes. The gas would then need to be refilled professionaly.

The drier has nothing to do with the air that enters the car. It's there to dry the gas in the air conditioning system.

Problems with air entering the car is likely to be a blocked pollen filter.

 

[roy lovelock]

if your struggling to clear the screen you may find the filter is in need of replacement, when they get clogged up they reduce the airflow and stop your screen from clearing. pretty simple but awkward job, i think there is already a walktru on it. ah the filter is about £20 from stealers but you maybe able to find it half that price at eurocarparts etc.
roy

 

[cheddar]

you may find the filter is in need of replacement, when they get clogged up they reduce the airflow and stop your screen from clearing.

Thanks Roy. I must have missed the opening threads here. Anyhow, I will replace the pollen filter next. That would be pass.side footwell IIR.

This morning I tried the reset on the /ac. Time will tell how effective it was. I did notice that the countdown on the pass side went from 3 to zero then stayed at zero whilst the Dr.side display then changed from zero to "2" (not 1 or 0 as mentioned above?). remained at 2 for several secs then reverted/resumed normal display mode. I am wondering if this is normal?

 

[Andymacselespeed]

Mines the same. When I first did it, I got the countdown on passenger side from 3 to 0. Then on drivers side, 3, 2, 0. Just did it again, this time 3,2,1,0 on passenger side, then 2, long pause, 0 on drivers side. Maybe higher number if longer since last operation, or maybe, longer count if self detects further out of alignment.

 

[Davren]

Thanks Roy. I must have missed the opening threads here. Anyhow, I will replace the pollen filter next. That would be pass.side footwell IIR.

For right hand drive cars, the filter is fitted in the driver's side footwell. There's a guide for it here:

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-guides/55320-pollen-filter-how-remove.html

 

[cheddar]

<have repaced pollen filter - better demisting now> Anyway, Andy - the a/c in my Jtd has the same symptom for ages as yours has now- hot air at low settings. I took it to Kwk-fit for a re-gas hoping to sort it!. Their temp meter showed cold air central vents on dash. (puzzling) Nevertheless I asked to get the gas top-up anyhow. But , even though the a/c pressure reading was low they reckoned it was adequate - maybe they formed this opinion after they found that they couldn't get the ac system to take anymore in! Yep they tried for 20 mins but it wouldn't re-gas?
So I'm still a bit mystified and still hoping for some improvement as the summer is only around the corner. One thing i have noticed with the Stilo is that whereas with my previous motor i had ice forming in the ac pipes and pools of water under the car on a hot day with the ac on, the stilo doesn't seem to do this. What part of the ac circuit is it which causes the condensation? the a/c condenser? Do you think we maybe have a weak condenser or similar component in the system?

 

[Davren]

Their temp meter showed cold air central vents on dash. (puzzling)

If you're only getting cold air from the central dash vents, it would suggest the lower vents are not opening correctly.

Nevertheless I asked to get the gas top-up anyhow. But , even though the a/c pressure reading was low they reckoned it was adequate - maybe they formed this opinion after they found that they couldn't get the ac system to take anymore in! Yep they tried for 20 mins but it wouldn't re-gas

It's not a matter of forcing more gas in, the system is designed to work with the correct 'weight' of gas. The only accurate way to fill it is to empty, then evacuate, then refill with the correct weight of gas. Evacuating the system also removes any moisture from within the system but is best done after fitting a new drier.

One thing i have noticed with the Stilo is that whereas with my previous motor i had ice forming in the ac pipes and pools of water under the car on a hot day with the ac on, the stilo doesn't seem to do this. What part of the ac circuit is it which causes the condensation? the a/c condenser

Condensation is formed on the evaporator. There's a drain pipe from it to below the car. You can see the pipe when removing the side panel to fit a new pollen filter. The "pools of water under the car" would only occur in humid weather conditions.

Do you think we maybe have a weak condenser or similar component in the system?

The only faults you would get with the condenser is a leak from it, in which case you wouldn't have any gas, or, as the Stilo drier/filter is built into the condenser, a faulty drier/filter.

 

[Yellow Peril]

<have repaced pollen filter - better demisting now> Anyway, Andy - the a/c in my Jtd has the same symptom for ages as yours has now- hot air at low settings. I took it to Kwk-fit for a re-gas hoping to sort it!. Their temp meter showed cold air central vents on dash. (puzzling) Nevertheless I asked to get the gas top-up anyhow. But , even though the a/c pressure reading was low they reckoned it was adequate - maybe they formed this opinion after they found that they couldn't get the ac system to take anymore in! Yep they tried for 20 mins but it wouldn't re-gas?
So I'm still a bit mystified and still hoping for some improvement as the summer is only around the corner. One thing i have noticed with the Stilo is that whereas with my previous motor i had ice forming in the ac pipes and pools of water under the car on a hot day with the ac on, the stilo doesn't seem to do this. What part of the ac circuit is it which causes the condensation? the a/c condenser? Do you think we maybe have a weak condenser or similar component in the system?

I wouldn't let Kwik Fit within a mile of my air con system. Find out your nearest Hella Air Con agent and use them. Very professional and have all the necessary trouble-shooting kit...